Mysterious clutch fail
Discussion
Have anyone of you guys ever heard of a clutch failure while car in garage?.
Well, thats preatty much what it happened to my 89SE. One day took the car for a ryde, no abuse at all, no burning wheels etc etc, the next day, felt the clutch pedal very different, it was like loose, like some lost in preassure or something, anyway, took it for a ryde again, the same deal. Next day no clutch at all, the pedal goes all the way down with little or no resistance in the way, and its is no possible to move the car.
Any ideas?
Mauricio
89SE
Well, thats preatty much what it happened to my 89SE. One day took the car for a ryde, no abuse at all, no burning wheels etc etc, the next day, felt the clutch pedal very different, it was like loose, like some lost in preassure or something, anyway, took it for a ryde again, the same deal. Next day no clutch at all, the pedal goes all the way down with little or no resistance in the way, and its is no possible to move the car.
Any ideas?
Mauricio
89SE
Yes, you have hydraulic system failure. The seals are probably slowly leaking in either the master or slave cylinders. Under the front bonnet You will see two master cylinders on is for the brakes, the other for the clutch. You can tell which one is the clutch from the pedal positions. Unscrew the plastic cap on the cylinder resevior. It looks like a cylindrical plastic container sitting on the top metal pipe. Thats the master clutch cylinder. The brakes have more of retangular container with a black plastic cap. Clean the cap with a clean cloth and look inside. It will more than likely be low. Go to the auto supply store and buy a pint of Castrol LMA brake fluid. Fill fluid up to the top line on the inside of the resevior. Pump the pedal and the firmness will return to the pedal enough for you to drive it to the auto shop for repair of the hydraulics system. Since you have asked this question I must assume you do bot know how to check and repair the hydraulics yourself. Do not drive the car in this condition too long. You more than likely have a small leak in your seals and you can lose the entire seal at anytime. By replacing the fluid and pumping the clutch pedal you can use the car but you will have air in your hose and when it heats up the pedal will feel soft because the air will expand. With out an EZ bleeder you will need 2 people to bleed the system who is familiar with the proceedure. If you are able to replace and rebuild the cylinders yourself it will cost about 20 US dollars. If not a few hundred US dollars at the repair shop. If you think you can do this I can tell you exactly how to do this proceedure in a step by step fashion. You must have basic tools, a jack, and a jack stand. What year and model is your Esprit. If it is the master cyl. you will see a leak behind the pedal box on the bulkhead wall and or under the cylinder in front compartment.
Calvin 90 SE
Calvin 90 SE
The deposit was compleatly empty, filled it up and it's perfect again, now:
1.- This means that I have an hydraulic seal problem and there is no doubt about it?.Cause can't see a true leak under the cylinder.
2.- To repair it, do I need some spare parts from Lotus?
3.- Do you have instructions for the repair?
4.- And if it is not too much to ask, could you come here and showme how?
(just kidding).
The patient is a 1989 calypso red SE
Well, thanks for all
Master Chief Calvin Sr!.
Mauricio
89SE
1.- This means that I have an hydraulic seal problem and there is no doubt about it?.Cause can't see a true leak under the cylinder.
2.- To repair it, do I need some spare parts from Lotus?
3.- Do you have instructions for the repair?
4.- And if it is not too much to ask, could you come here and showme how?
(just kidding). The patient is a 1989 calypso red SE
Well, thanks for all
Master Chief Calvin Sr!.
Mauricio
89SE
Yes, there in no doubt that you have a leak somewhere. There are only 3 parts to the system. Master cyl., slave cyl., and the hose/connections itself. To check where it is leaking from:
Take a flash light and look in the drivers footwell. From the clutch pedal you will see the connecting rod attaching it to the master through a hole in the bulkhead. You will see a black rubber dust cap where the rod goes through. This cap must be dry, if it is wet this is where the leak is. Also you might see a little bit of wetness under the master on the front compartment wall. To see the slave cylinder it is located on the right side of the of the clutch housing with either a red hose or a Stainless Steel hose if the red hose has been replaced. If you are still not sure where it is, look in that area just ahead of the right rear wheel and have someone pump the pedal and you will see the slave operating the clutch fork assembly. Check for fluid leaks. When it happened to me I replaced both master and slave seals plus the red hose with the stainless steel. The Girling seal kits cost 15/20 each and the fluid 5. So for about $45 you can do it yourself. I recomend doing both seals at the same time as the rubber is the same age and to do the job once is better than going back to redo it again sometime in the near future. The SS hose replacement if you still have the red hose is about 80-90 extra.
Instructions for repair require the help of another person:
1) Remove the contents of the master by using a syringe or I used a turkey baster from the grocery store. Do not allow this fluid to get on any painted surfaces. It will discolor or remove paint if left on for any length of time. Use soap and irrigate with water as soon as possible if this happens.
2)In the Lotus position (inverted in the driver footwell with your feet on the headrest or out the open door). Use long nose pliers to pull the spring clip from the pedal assembly pivot pin that holds a saddle bracket to clutch plunger rod.
3)Note the number of flat/spring washer and the positions for reinstall. Remove the pin and the washers will drop off, probably on your head. Don't worry doesn't hurt but don't lose the washers. The master is now ready for removal.
4)Disconnect the hose, one person holds a wrench on the inside (a lot of times this bolt is welded and does not need to held from the inside) and one at the front compartment removes two nuts one on the top and one on the bottom of the master using a socket wrench with the proper extensions (might have to use two extension if you have short ones).
5)From the passengers side one person will grab the brake master (not the plastic part)and firmly pull it towards the passengers side while the other person removes the master from the bulkhead. At this time thank god you do not ABS. On cars with the relay box that interfere with the removal loosen the relay box so it can be moved and angled so the master will clear that also.
6)The slave is much easier to remove. disconnect the hose and 2 bolts and remove.
7)Clean both cylinders with denatured alcohol,degreaser, or fresh brake fluid and have a clean work surface.
8)start with the master, remove the rubber dust cap and you may see a little grease under the cap wipe it away if you can not see well. Using long nose pliers compress the circ clip retainer and remove from the groove. remove the plunger assembly. Inspect the interior of cyl for wear or scars, anything you feel with your finger inserted inside of it is not good and may need to be refinished or the scars with tear up the new seals.
9)Replace the seals and parts with what you have in the seal kit. lubricate seals with fresh fluid and re-install reversing the removal poceedure using fresh grease supplied with the kit under the new dust cap after you re-install the circ clip.
10)rebuild the slave the same way and re-install the slave.
11)Install the SS hose if you are replacing it.
12) Use only Castrol LMA brake fluid or the new seals will fall apart. Fill the resivoir, pump the pedal while the other person keeps it filled and firmness is restored.
13)Bleed system by pumping the pedal a few times and hold the pedal down about half way. The person at the slave will SLOWLY open the bleeder with a wrench. Bubbles and fluid will come out and the pedal will drop, before the pedal gets to the bottom close the bleeder and repeat this process until you get fluid only and no bubbles. Do not allow the pedal to come back up till the bleeder has been closed or you will suck air back in the system. Keep the resivoir filled while doing this as the level will drop. If it drops too much you will suck air into the system and you will have to start all over again.
14) I always re-bleed the system after a while. Because there might have been very small mirco bubbles that merge into larger ones over time. So a re-bleed is good.
Total time 4 hrs. including 15 min. test drive and clean up. Skill level medium.
Take a flash light and look in the drivers footwell. From the clutch pedal you will see the connecting rod attaching it to the master through a hole in the bulkhead. You will see a black rubber dust cap where the rod goes through. This cap must be dry, if it is wet this is where the leak is. Also you might see a little bit of wetness under the master on the front compartment wall. To see the slave cylinder it is located on the right side of the of the clutch housing with either a red hose or a Stainless Steel hose if the red hose has been replaced. If you are still not sure where it is, look in that area just ahead of the right rear wheel and have someone pump the pedal and you will see the slave operating the clutch fork assembly. Check for fluid leaks. When it happened to me I replaced both master and slave seals plus the red hose with the stainless steel. The Girling seal kits cost 15/20 each and the fluid 5. So for about $45 you can do it yourself. I recomend doing both seals at the same time as the rubber is the same age and to do the job once is better than going back to redo it again sometime in the near future. The SS hose replacement if you still have the red hose is about 80-90 extra.
Instructions for repair require the help of another person:
1) Remove the contents of the master by using a syringe or I used a turkey baster from the grocery store. Do not allow this fluid to get on any painted surfaces. It will discolor or remove paint if left on for any length of time. Use soap and irrigate with water as soon as possible if this happens.
2)In the Lotus position (inverted in the driver footwell with your feet on the headrest or out the open door). Use long nose pliers to pull the spring clip from the pedal assembly pivot pin that holds a saddle bracket to clutch plunger rod.
3)Note the number of flat/spring washer and the positions for reinstall. Remove the pin and the washers will drop off, probably on your head. Don't worry doesn't hurt but don't lose the washers. The master is now ready for removal.
4)Disconnect the hose, one person holds a wrench on the inside (a lot of times this bolt is welded and does not need to held from the inside) and one at the front compartment removes two nuts one on the top and one on the bottom of the master using a socket wrench with the proper extensions (might have to use two extension if you have short ones).
5)From the passengers side one person will grab the brake master (not the plastic part)and firmly pull it towards the passengers side while the other person removes the master from the bulkhead. At this time thank god you do not ABS. On cars with the relay box that interfere with the removal loosen the relay box so it can be moved and angled so the master will clear that also.
6)The slave is much easier to remove. disconnect the hose and 2 bolts and remove.
7)Clean both cylinders with denatured alcohol,degreaser, or fresh brake fluid and have a clean work surface.
8)start with the master, remove the rubber dust cap and you may see a little grease under the cap wipe it away if you can not see well. Using long nose pliers compress the circ clip retainer and remove from the groove. remove the plunger assembly. Inspect the interior of cyl for wear or scars, anything you feel with your finger inserted inside of it is not good and may need to be refinished or the scars with tear up the new seals.
9)Replace the seals and parts with what you have in the seal kit. lubricate seals with fresh fluid and re-install reversing the removal poceedure using fresh grease supplied with the kit under the new dust cap after you re-install the circ clip.
10)rebuild the slave the same way and re-install the slave.
11)Install the SS hose if you are replacing it.
12) Use only Castrol LMA brake fluid or the new seals will fall apart. Fill the resivoir, pump the pedal while the other person keeps it filled and firmness is restored.
13)Bleed system by pumping the pedal a few times and hold the pedal down about half way. The person at the slave will SLOWLY open the bleeder with a wrench. Bubbles and fluid will come out and the pedal will drop, before the pedal gets to the bottom close the bleeder and repeat this process until you get fluid only and no bubbles. Do not allow the pedal to come back up till the bleeder has been closed or you will suck air back in the system. Keep the resivoir filled while doing this as the level will drop. If it drops too much you will suck air into the system and you will have to start all over again.
14) I always re-bleed the system after a while. Because there might have been very small mirco bubbles that merge into larger ones over time. So a re-bleed is good.
Total time 4 hrs. including 15 min. test drive and clean up. Skill level medium.
as I'm not very handy. 
No I am not a mechanic by trade, I am a audio/video systems engineer and design large hardware networks. Some are very intense like the 700-5000+ camera systems in casinos. I do all my own work on my SE and have never sent it to the shop since I have aquired it 2 years ago. I took a 15 years hiatus from Lotus ownership (65 Elan, 70 S2 Europa, 74 TC Europa) to have a family and buy a house. I finally have a hobby car once again. I belong to the local Lotus club and we all 100% wrenchers. We have had 3 engine pulling parties, 1 engine install party with another on the way and one body lift off the chassis this year. Within the club we have engine cranes, transmission jacks, engine stands, trailers to pick up Esprit's, air and power tools. Most important we have country's top Lotus Guru's Tim Engel expert in Europa's and N/A Esprit's and Keen Young a near legend in Turbo SE repair. These are some serious people and do things that others do not have the nerve to do. See this link for serious restoration. www.usinternet.com/users/kyoung/lotus/
I have come over to this forum because it is more 4 cyl orientated. The other list has more of a V8 flavor and less of them do actual work there cars. I strongly promote working on ones car. It is skill one aquires over time and the more one does it the better one gets. Just like driving. To throughly understand the workings, maintence, and repair of the Esprit is to become one with the car. Once this occurs you will know when the car is not performing as it came out of the factory and how to make so should it be in disrepair. You can also discover faults much earlier and as a result the fixes are much less expensive before they become major faults. The master/slave repair is a meduim skill repair that if the SS hose were not required would be a seal rebuild for $15-20 USA dollars per cylinder. Take it to the shop and it's hundreds. Do it yourself save the money and then use the money saved to optimize your car. In my early 20's so many years ago I know what it was like to have a Lotus all alone without repair help, only a manual and a phone number in England. In the 70's with a Lotus in Hawaii was a heck of a time. Although I can brag that at one time I owned 30% of all Lotus cars in Hawaii we had only 8 or 9 and I had 3 of them. Out of the rest I only knew 3 other owners 1 Elan and 2 Europa's. Only 2 of them had some wrenching experience but we were really struggling back then to keep our cars running. Let us use the power and convience of the net to assist one another. We have a strong incentive and that is to keep our cars in top shape.
Calvin 90 SE from the Twin Cities/Minnesota area USA
I have come over to this forum because it is more 4 cyl orientated. The other list has more of a V8 flavor and less of them do actual work there cars. I strongly promote working on ones car. It is skill one aquires over time and the more one does it the better one gets. Just like driving. To throughly understand the workings, maintence, and repair of the Esprit is to become one with the car. Once this occurs you will know when the car is not performing as it came out of the factory and how to make so should it be in disrepair. You can also discover faults much earlier and as a result the fixes are much less expensive before they become major faults. The master/slave repair is a meduim skill repair that if the SS hose were not required would be a seal rebuild for $15-20 USA dollars per cylinder. Take it to the shop and it's hundreds. Do it yourself save the money and then use the money saved to optimize your car. In my early 20's so many years ago I know what it was like to have a Lotus all alone without repair help, only a manual and a phone number in England. In the 70's with a Lotus in Hawaii was a heck of a time. Although I can brag that at one time I owned 30% of all Lotus cars in Hawaii we had only 8 or 9 and I had 3 of them. Out of the rest I only knew 3 other owners 1 Elan and 2 Europa's. Only 2 of them had some wrenching experience but we were really struggling back then to keep our cars running. Let us use the power and convience of the net to assist one another. We have a strong incentive and that is to keep our cars in top shape.
Calvin 90 SE from the Twin Cities/Minnesota area USA
Calvin,
Oddly, my clutch lost hydraulic pressure yesterday too! Great post... I've only had my "new baby" a month (my other baby is a M roadster (we have the Euro version which is 315bhp standard)) but the 89 SE is my hobby car (no warranty to void!).
I will be implementing your repair steps as soon as I find someone who sells the stainless clutch line in this country (australia).
Reeves.
Oddly, my clutch lost hydraulic pressure yesterday too! Great post... I've only had my "new baby" a month (my other baby is a M roadster (we have the Euro version which is 315bhp standard)) but the 89 SE is my hobby car (no warranty to void!).
I will be implementing your repair steps as soon as I find someone who sells the stainless clutch line in this country (australia).
Reeves.
OK, now this is getting out of hand. I had exactly the same problem on my GT3 (1999). Left the car in the garage, reversed it out. Came back a few hours later to find the clutch pedal, on the floor.
Looked under the car, there is a fluid leak from the right side of engine. Assume this is clutch fluid.
I will try to find where the leak is coming from but I suspect the hose is leaking. Your instructions are excellent, so maybe I'll try to fix the leak myself but I'm kind of worried..!
Does anyone know of a decent garage in England. I live in London..?
Looked under the car, there is a fluid leak from the right side of engine. Assume this is clutch fluid.
I will try to find where the leak is coming from but I suspect the hose is leaking. Your instructions are excellent, so maybe I'll try to fix the leak myself but I'm kind of worried..!
Does anyone know of a decent garage in England. I live in London..?
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