proper jacking points
Discussion
i'd like to get the vehicle up on 4 jacks. where are the best places to locate the stands. when i jacked up the back, i used the crossmember around the transmission to lift, and placed the jackstands under the ends of the torsion bar carrier. worked safely, but where can i place when working on the suspension? thanks.
do you mean the unibody jacking points or the sill jacking points? also, are these designed to carry a load for a week or more? by the way, has anyone made themselves a nice jig for the top of the floorjack? i just jammed some wood on top, but it's ugly. would like some input on what shape works best at various jacking points. thanks again.
The jacking points in front of the wheels. I don't like to use them myself, but I do if I have to. I use a block of wood too, but after recently seeing the suggestion, I will use a hockey puck next time.
I do happen to have a hockey puck, you know, and I found it too. Growing up in CA, then living in TX for 18 years, and now living in AR, hockey pucks are not exactly something that I happen to have a lot of, but 20 years ago I was visiting my kin-folk in Alberta and one of them gave me one and I still have it, so now it actually has a purpose.
Anyway, why not just put the jack stands on the frame bar thing at the back of the tranny that you jack it up at? At least if you are going to do suspension work. I usually jack it from there and pu the jack stands under the bottom of the shocks.
Dr.Hess
I do happen to have a hockey puck, you know, and I found it too. Growing up in CA, then living in TX for 18 years, and now living in AR, hockey pucks are not exactly something that I happen to have a lot of, but 20 years ago I was visiting my kin-folk in Alberta and one of them gave me one and I still have it, so now it actually has a purpose.
Anyway, why not just put the jack stands on the frame bar thing at the back of the tranny that you jack it up at? At least if you are going to do suspension work. I usually jack it from there and pu the jack stands under the bottom of the shocks.
Dr.Hess
thanks dr. hess. i'll try the hockey puck. i've got one too for unkown reasons. twas left here by one of the neighbor's kids who never came back for it. on the S3 chassis, that rear crossmember tubing is bent in an arch for strength with the weld joint at the bottom of the arc. not a safe place for jackstands as they'll slide outward. someday i'll build a jackframe to optimally distribute the weight. i realise i'm making a simple thing more trouble than need be, and i appreciate the replys.
Dr. Hess - since you like making tools you might consider the following:
Cut a piece of steel to match the jacking point, then remove the saddle and measure the hole in your floor jack, find a large nut that matches the hole and weld it to the piece of steel. This works for larger floor jacks. For a smaller model, I removed the saddle measured the cup that remained and had a piece of fairly heavy gauge steel stamped to fit over the cup, then had the piece of steel that fits in the jacking point welded to the stamped piece. Using both floor jacks I can jack the front end up and place floor jacks under the cross-member or the control arms.
Cut a piece of steel to match the jacking point, then remove the saddle and measure the hole in your floor jack, find a large nut that matches the hole and weld it to the piece of steel. This works for larger floor jacks. For a smaller model, I removed the saddle measured the cup that remained and had a piece of fairly heavy gauge steel stamped to fit over the cup, then had the piece of steel that fits in the jacking point welded to the stamped piece. Using both floor jacks I can jack the front end up and place floor jacks under the cross-member or the control arms.
My floor jack was like $150 and I would hate to butcher it. I got tired of junk floor jacks and bought the delux aluminum racing jack from HF. It is really nice. Might custom make me an adapter to sit on top, but my 2x4 piece has been working well and now I found my hockey puck.
Dr.Hess
Dr.Hess
Couldn't see the pictures.
Dr. Hess - no modifications are needed to the floor jack if it has the typical central hole for the jacking saddle. Remove the saddle and the device I described sits in the hole that normally holds the saddle. This eliminates the chance of the puck or 2x4 slipping off.
Dr. Hess - no modifications are needed to the floor jack if it has the typical central hole for the jacking saddle. Remove the saddle and the device I described sits in the hole that normally holds the saddle. This eliminates the chance of the puck or 2x4 slipping off.
[quote=okc-esprit]Couldn't see the pictures.
quote]
i guess they cant be accessed directly. both pics
are at http://web.tampabay.rr.com/redrocket
goto "mods" then either "tools" or "steering rack"
to see both
chris
90SE
quote]
i guess they cant be accessed directly. both pics
are at http://web.tampabay.rr.com/redrocket
goto "mods" then either "tools" or "steering rack"
to see both
chris
90SE
We started using hockey pucks as it was the handy thing to use. After all I live in Minnesota who doesn't have a hockey puck. Plus that it fits in well into the floor jack cup.
We normally use the jack points to use stands after lifting on the tranny cradle or front T member of the frame (watch that you do not catch and crush and lines).
We normally use the jack points to use stands after lifting on the tranny cradle or front T member of the frame (watch that you do not catch and crush and lines).
I can honestly say that - considering the condition the rear jack points (as in if you have a flat jack points) on my Esprit were in when I got the car - the Esprit has GOT to have some of the 'crappy-iest' jack points ever designed. I think Lotus just put a metal shank on bit of glass fiber! I usually sit the body up on the tube part of the frame (near the top of the A shape below the water pump). I found some interesting packing foam I place on top of a wood block. The front points seem to be much better...
Drive topless!!!
Cameron
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