Discussion
Hi everyone,
I'm down to replacing the last of the factory fuel vapor lines, the one that runs from the rollover valve to the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if this line should be completely free of obstruction? The factory line has a plug with a small hole drilled in it acting as a restrictor. Don't know if this is something the factory did or if its the previous owners attempt to eliminate the fuel smell.
John
I'm down to replacing the last of the factory fuel vapor lines, the one that runs from the rollover valve to the charcoal canister. Can anyone tell me if this line should be completely free of obstruction? The factory line has a plug with a small hole drilled in it acting as a restrictor. Don't know if this is something the factory did or if its the previous owners attempt to eliminate the fuel smell.
John
The OEM part is available from the usual sources (RD, JAE, SJ) but Keen Young and Jim McFadden used a part from Checker auto from a Jeep CJ7 or that is what I understood them to say. Keen used it in a 90SE and Jim in his G car, so I'm prety sure it is almost a universal thing. Best to check with them on the exact part needed.
Before I sold my SE I had taken the old broken rubber gaiter down to NAPA and the sized one up for me, They called the next day with the part number/price $30 but the new owner was anxious to do something with the car and took over final ordering and installation.
I have noticed one thing though and I am not certain that this is the actual cause. When the rubber gaiter fails the leather shift boot sinks or drops into the hole. Either the engine fumes, heat, or rubbing against the inside of the depression during shifting causes many of the leather shift boot to crack, perforate, and generally take on a grungy look.
My leather shift boot has always been in great shape compared to some of the other cars. some commented on how does it stay up high on the shifter and when pushed on the leather boot it felt there was something beneath it. On cars that the rubber gaiter disintergrated the leather boot dropped down below the center console and there was no resistance of any kind.
Well one day while driving around My leather boot dropped down into the console and did not feel quite right. There also was slight oil/fuel smell that I first thought was comming from the seat belt opening.
Well you a heard about my crossgate cable breaking while on the way to drop off the car to it's new owner and the console cover had to come off to attach the new cable to the shift box. The gaiter had ripped all the way off the mounting ring at the base and the remains had fallen into the shift box. There was a strong engine odor from center tunnel which is open on the wishbone side. When the window is open I suspect there was enough cabin vacumm to draw fumes in from engine compartment. I had my passengers constantly sniffing the seatbelt holes in fire wall while driving down the road to no avail, I suppose it was that darn rubber gaiter all along.
Calvin
Before I sold my SE I had taken the old broken rubber gaiter down to NAPA and the sized one up for me, They called the next day with the part number/price $30 but the new owner was anxious to do something with the car and took over final ordering and installation.
I have noticed one thing though and I am not certain that this is the actual cause. When the rubber gaiter fails the leather shift boot sinks or drops into the hole. Either the engine fumes, heat, or rubbing against the inside of the depression during shifting causes many of the leather shift boot to crack, perforate, and generally take on a grungy look.
My leather shift boot has always been in great shape compared to some of the other cars. some commented on how does it stay up high on the shifter and when pushed on the leather boot it felt there was something beneath it. On cars that the rubber gaiter disintergrated the leather boot dropped down below the center console and there was no resistance of any kind.
Well one day while driving around My leather boot dropped down into the console and did not feel quite right. There also was slight oil/fuel smell that I first thought was comming from the seat belt opening.
Well you a heard about my crossgate cable breaking while on the way to drop off the car to it's new owner and the console cover had to come off to attach the new cable to the shift box. The gaiter had ripped all the way off the mounting ring at the base and the remains had fallen into the shift box. There was a strong engine odor from center tunnel which is open on the wishbone side. When the window is open I suspect there was enough cabin vacumm to draw fumes in from engine compartment. I had my passengers constantly sniffing the seatbelt holes in fire wall while driving down the road to no avail, I suppose it was that darn rubber gaiter all along.
Calvin
Hmm,
so all spring I searched andn searched and posted here about the smell. Nobody suggested the Gaitor.. I finally found the ripped rubber and was delighted to post about it as the place that gave the oily gassy smell..
Now it seems common knowledge....
I am glad that at least now we cna all save time tracking down the problem..
I need to find a part number to go to the local parts store. I have tried to order from the dealer since about June and they always forget to do it.. the last 3 visits their story is "backorder sir" i still think they have not ordered it..
I ducttaped mine but it is smelly again.. need a new rubber.. At least I have all winter to think about it now.
Bruce S4s
so all spring I searched andn searched and posted here about the smell. Nobody suggested the Gaitor.. I finally found the ripped rubber and was delighted to post about it as the place that gave the oily gassy smell..
Now it seems common knowledge....
I am glad that at least now we cna all save time tracking down the problem..
I need to find a part number to go to the local parts store. I have tried to order from the dealer since about June and they always forget to do it.. the last 3 visits their story is "backorder sir" i still think they have not ordered it..
I ducttaped mine but it is smelly again.. need a new rubber.. At least I have all winter to think about it now.
Bruce S4s
Yea, my Fuel smell history goes like this. First replaced the shift gaiter and that was the main area where the vapor was entering the cabin. Second, I used a firm foam to seal the openings around the seat belt. That basically cured the vapor entering the cabin. Then I decided to tackle the source of the problem and this has been ongoing for about two years. I replaced one hose at a time, then drove the car for some time to see if the vapor was gone. Every time I opened the rear of the car after the car cooled I smelled it again. About a year ago I replaced the fuel pump and took great care not to misalign the o-ring. At that time I checked all main hoses, filler neck, and there were no cracks or tairs. The last of the vapor lines was replaced this past weekend but it had no cracks. The only time I smell fuel now is when I open the rear deck and it is coming from the right opening in front of the battery - which means the right tank. Granted, the smell is nothing compared to what it once was, but I don't think I should be smelling it at all.
So I am starting to come to the conclusion that there is a small pin size hole somewhere on the right tank out of my sight. But at the same time I have never seen any evidence of liquid fuel leaking anywhere since I have owned the car.
Any thoughts?
So I am starting to come to the conclusion that there is a small pin size hole somewhere on the right tank out of my sight. But at the same time I have never seen any evidence of liquid fuel leaking anywhere since I have owned the car.
Any thoughts?
neo,
There are a few other areas you can check which have all been sources of fuel smell for me.
Fuel filler cap that doesn't seal properly and releases fumes, can be detected by smelling around the filler cover, particularly after a run.
Leaking injector o-ring. Never saw it leaking but noticed a stain/greasy residue around the base of one injector that smelled of fuel.
Leaking gasket or mounting ring where the fuel pump mounts in the top of the right hand side fuel tank.
There is also a vapor line from the purge cannister that goes nowhere and is just a breather tube for the purge system. I had fumes coming from that line also which could be due to fuel saturating whatever media is inside the cannister itself due to age, or maybe it's just supposed to smell.
Good luck in your search, I feel your pain.
Jim Knowles
95 S4s with no fuel smell at the moment.....
There are a few other areas you can check which have all been sources of fuel smell for me.
Fuel filler cap that doesn't seal properly and releases fumes, can be detected by smelling around the filler cover, particularly after a run.
Leaking injector o-ring. Never saw it leaking but noticed a stain/greasy residue around the base of one injector that smelled of fuel.
Leaking gasket or mounting ring where the fuel pump mounts in the top of the right hand side fuel tank.
There is also a vapor line from the purge cannister that goes nowhere and is just a breather tube for the purge system. I had fumes coming from that line also which could be due to fuel saturating whatever media is inside the cannister itself due to age, or maybe it's just supposed to smell.
Good luck in your search, I feel your pain.
Jim Knowles
95 S4s with no fuel smell at the moment.....
Hi,
I did in fact replace the rubber inner shift boot on my '85 'G' car with one from NAPA. The Lotus OEM was around $45. The NAPA Part, spec'd for a Jeep CJ-5 cost I believe $3.
Two small caveats. 1.) The NAPA part is much more substantial, and this is noticeable in the shifter. Works fine, just a little more effort.
2.) The NAPA part required a slight trimming with a scissors and punching new holes for the screws. Easy 5 minute job.
I would normally have gone with the OEM part. But I was in the middle of a rebuild and stretching the budget already. That said, $45 seems large when compared to the actual material, engineering and purpose of the part. Given the same circumstances, I'd go with the NAPA part again.
Happy Motoring!... Jim'85TE
I did in fact replace the rubber inner shift boot on my '85 'G' car with one from NAPA. The Lotus OEM was around $45. The NAPA Part, spec'd for a Jeep CJ-5 cost I believe $3.
Two small caveats. 1.) The NAPA part is much more substantial, and this is noticeable in the shifter. Works fine, just a little more effort.
2.) The NAPA part required a slight trimming with a scissors and punching new holes for the screws. Easy 5 minute job.
I would normally have gone with the OEM part. But I was in the middle of a rebuild and stretching the budget already. That said, $45 seems large when compared to the actual material, engineering and purpose of the part. Given the same circumstances, I'd go with the NAPA part again.
Happy Motoring!... Jim'85TE
Thanks, Jim. I've been just doing without and putting up with sagging leather syndrome. I had to do some repair work to the reverse lockout, including building up the aluminum with my MIG, fabing a new button thingie, etc., and the boot was in such poor shape that I never bothered to put it back in. I'll check out NAPA.
Dr.Hess
Dr.Hess
Calvin, Dan, Dr. Hess, and Jim thank you guys for the replys. I did run the Charcoal canister exit back to the rear valance so the vapor could exit to atmosphere aand not the engine bay, and I'm sure this has helped. I also installed new injectors from RC Racing about three months ago and saw no signs of leakage there. But I have not changed out the fuel filler caps. I think I'll do that this week. One less variable.
Thanks guys
John
>> Edited by 5150neo on Wednesday 1st December 09:31
Thanks guys
John
>> Edited by 5150neo on Wednesday 1st December 09:31
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