Alternator removal

Alternator removal

Author
Discussion

Scotto97

Original Poster:

20 posts

239 months

Friday 26th November 2004
quotequote all
I believe the bearings are going bad on my 91SE's alternator. I've read the best thing to do is take it to an auto electric shop and have it rebuilt. Is it able to be removed easily? I can see the adjustment bolt and the longer bolt that holds it in place. If I remove those 2 bolts, will it clear the top of the engine?

cam79

78 posts

248 months

Friday 26th November 2004
quotequote all
Hi,

I can't comment on an SE as we haven't taken it off that yet (I'm sure the time will come). I've just done it on my S3, takes roughly 5 mins. I think there was three bolts on mine, but a dead easy job once you get into the engine bay. I did have to remove the air box the first time in order to get access to the lower bolt, but again that's on a S3.

I had my alternator fitted with new bearings and revamped for £42, great job!

CAM.

Dr.Hess

837 posts

255 months

Friday 26th November 2004
quotequote all
The best way to fix the Valeo unit is to replace it with a Bosch, then give it back as a core or place it in the trash can.

You need to remove the aluminum air box, then the pivot bolt and hold down nut and it will come out. Writeups on the replacement:

http://home.flash.net/~hess/crystal_princess.htm then about 1/2 way down the page.

Ed's page: http://lotusracer.home.mchsi.com/lotustipspage3.htm
has pictures.

It is possible that a Delco unit may work as well and require less mods, but having bought a Bosch, I just went with that and stopped my research into it. As I got a lifetime warranty with the new unit, doubtfull I'll need to look at it again. It is more work than just using the Valeo unit, but then the Bosch is a much better piece and it won't give you trouble. There are people who have gone through 3 Valeo's in 50K miles. I paid U$80+40 core for the Bosch.

Dr.Hess

5150neo

154 posts

274 months

Saturday 27th November 2004
quotequote all
Dr.Hess,
Do you have a part# for the Bosch, and what modle year did you fit this into?
John

Dr.Hess

837 posts

255 months

Saturday 27th November 2004
quotequote all
The part numbers are on my web page referenced above in the Parts Substitution section, along with what Beemer you can tell them. The official "Bosch" part number is AL49X but the auto parts computers choked when I tried that one.

This should fit all 4 cylinders from at least 83 on.

Dr.Hess
'89 non-SE

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Monday 29th November 2004
quotequote all
2 bolts and the cables.

$40 to $80 for a rebuild at an auto electric shop.

No idea what a Bosch unit goes for.

If you elect to remove and take it for a rebuild don't even mention it is from a Lotus or you might as well just drop you pants and bend over the counter top cause you are going to get screwed.

>> Edited by cnh1990 on Monday 29th November 19:02

Scotto97

Original Poster:

20 posts

239 months

Tuesday 30th November 2004
quotequote all
Thanks for the great info. I went with the Bosch unit yesterday and did the mods as discussed. The voltage at the battery with the car running is between 13.5 and 13.25 which seems a little low, but everything is working fine. I purchased it at Autozone for $119 plus $55 core. It is the rebuilt "Duralast" with a lifetime warranty. The reason I replaced the alternator is because of a deeper "clicking" sound the seemed to come from that area but the sound is still present. The A/C compressor is not making the sound and it seems to lessen after the car is warmed up. Any ideas?

jk1

469 posts

259 months

Tuesday 30th November 2004
quotequote all
Timing belt tensioner? Be sure and rule that out as you don't want to lose it while the engine is running as that would be ugly....

jk

Dr.Hess

837 posts

255 months

Tuesday 30th November 2004
quotequote all
As a side note to the alternator R&R with the Bosch unit: I am still investigating it, but preliminary results are indicating that the Valeo POS alternator was the source of my constant current drain when the vehicle is off. Initially, I had a 175mA draw. I disconnected an aftermarket alarm that was flakey and I didn't have the remote for anyway and that dropped it to 135mA. After replacing the alternator with the Bosch unit, I could not detect any current draw, which can't be right, but is interesting none-the-less.

If anyone wants to help this research, do this: Vehicle off. Put an ammeter in series with the - lead at the battery. Know what you are doing here. Set on either the 10 amp scale or a scale of around 200 milliamps minimum. Measure current drain. Disconnect ammeter, leaving battery disconnected. Disconnect the large brown wire at the back of the Valeo alternator and either wrap it in tape or otherwise make sure it will not accidentally contact any other metal parts. Put ammeter back in circuit at - lead of battery. Measure current drain. Report findings.

BTW, O'Reilley's has the Bosch unit for $80 + 40 core. I kept the Valeo and sucked up the core charge. I figger it is probably worth $40 to me to stick it in my box of extra Lotus parts.

Dr.Hess

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Friday 3rd December 2004
quotequote all
Hess,
you probably had bad diodes in the alternator.

According the the Toyota site they had also taked about pulley swap to increase the RPM of the alternator. Mine worked fine after the $40 rebuild on the my alternator so never had to swap the pulley.

Calvin

Dr.Hess

837 posts

255 months

Saturday 4th December 2004
quotequote all
Hey Calvin,
Yeah, could be the diodes or the regulator. And I wonder if it is a (gasp) design flaw from the French. Seems like everyone complains that their battery will go dead if the car is not run once a week or so, a condition I had observed as well which was obviously because of the 135mA constant current draw.

Dr.Hess

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Monday 6th December 2004
quotequote all
Well during the winter I only started my Esprit my Esprit up about once a month sometimes every other month. So I don't think the alternator was at fault.

Mine went bad rather quickly without warning, failing to charge at night. With the head lights on the charge was drained within a 30 minutes then the ECU went bonkers forcing me to me to walk the last 1/4 mile home to take a battery out of one of my other cars so I could drive the Esprit home. After a new battery and the rebuild it was fine for many years till I sold the Esprit last month. I had a couple of bad diodes and the brushes were dirty.
Calvin