Second gear grinding after car warms up?
Discussion
My early 93 Esprit SE grinds 2nd gear once it warms up. My local dealer suggested that I swap to a synthetic gear oil which he did to no prevail. Still grinds when the car is warm. Cold it shifts fine. Anyone have any suggestions? The vehicle has a new clutch, pres. plate, TO bearing, and new slave cylinder.
Thanks
Tom.
>>> Edited by tmaracek on Friday 12th November 07:29
Thanks
Tom.
>>> Edited by tmaracek on Friday 12th November 07:29
Tom:
You probably have the "red hose syndrome". The clutch line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder is served by a red plastic hose. This hose expands as it gets hot, keeping the clutch from engaging properly due to lack of pressure.
Cotnact Jeff at JAE (www.JAEparts.com) to purchase their braided stainless steel clutch line. Should take care of it.
Mark Pfeffer
You probably have the "red hose syndrome". The clutch line from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder is served by a red plastic hose. This hose expands as it gets hot, keeping the clutch from engaging properly due to lack of pressure.
Cotnact Jeff at JAE (www.JAEparts.com) to purchase their braided stainless steel clutch line. Should take care of it.
Mark Pfeffer
Tom,
Bleed your clutch line VERY thoroughly. It may be a real pain to get all these little bubbles out.
And please put Castrol TAF-X oil in your gearbox, nothing else !
Cheers
Marcus (www.PUKesprit.de)
Bleed your clutch line VERY thoroughly. It may be a real pain to get all these little bubbles out.
And please put Castrol TAF-X oil in your gearbox, nothing else !
Cheers
Marcus (www.PUKesprit.de)
Also, when bleeding, I have become a firm believer in the overnight method. After bleeding the line as best you can, find a stick and block of wood of suitable lengths, push clutch down all the way with stick, other end of stick against block of wood against bottom (metal part) of seat, leave overnight.
Not sure exactly how it works, but I propose the following mechanism: The pressure from the pressure plate pushing back on the slave cylinder keeps the line presurized, forcing any air into the fluid, which somehow magically (still working on the theory here) finds its way to the top of the master cylinder resivoir.
Dr.Hess
Not sure exactly how it works, but I propose the following mechanism: The pressure from the pressure plate pushing back on the slave cylinder keeps the line presurized, forcing any air into the fluid, which somehow magically (still working on the theory here) finds its way to the top of the master cylinder resivoir.
Dr.Hess
A really fast way to bleed any hydraulic system if you don't have one of those EZ-bleeders (pressurized back bleeder) is just a long piece of clear hose.
Clean the bleed nipple well and just push one end of the hose to the bleed nipple then run the hose back to master and use something like a clothes pin to hold into place in the master reservoir. What is created is a simple recirulating system as you pump the pedal the fluid will then be expelled back in to the Master.
Clean the bleed nipple well and just push one end of the hose to the bleed nipple then run the hose back to master and use something like a clothes pin to hold into place in the master reservoir. What is created is a simple recirulating system as you pump the pedal the fluid will then be expelled back in to the Master.
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