Carbon Fibre Engine cover getting made
Discussion
Am getting a bit of help making up a decent mould for my engine cover. I could probably have a crack myself, but am too busy at the moment with other arty things on the go, so it may work out better in the long run to farm some of it out. Its probably going to take a bit over a month before I see the first sample come out of the mould. I have only dropped it off today so I am yet to discuss how much its going to cost me 
Would anyone "serious" be interested in a carbon fibre engine cover just to help break down the cost of the mould? This is only for a shell, you would have to transfer your own fittings over to the new one yourself or get a fabricator to help you do that - not that hard. Also its only for a early Stevens shape one, the G-cars and V8's have different engine lids and am unsure of the S4s someone can tell me there
So check first.
Cheers
Kylie
Would anyone "serious" be interested in a carbon fibre engine cover just to help break down the cost of the mould? This is only for a shell, you would have to transfer your own fittings over to the new one yourself or get a fabricator to help you do that - not that hard. Also its only for a early Stevens shape one, the G-cars and V8's have different engine lids and am unsure of the S4s someone can tell me there
So check first. Cheers
Kylie
Hi Kylie, talk about great minds, last night I was thinking about CF parts for my S4s. The engine cover is different on the Se Highwings and later. Basically all cars with oval vents in the rear deck.
I've osrt of knock this idea in the head about doing my engine cover as the later ones weight a lot lighter than the Stephens ones so no real point.
Iam sure others will place an order with you. Try the other forums as well.
In the meantime, Iam trying to think of something that I can make on my S4s that is stuble enough not to spoil it.
Good Luck,
Dave Walters
Ps. How did the sunroof turn out in the end? I've just had another two made.
>> Edited by superdave on Thursday 21st October 08:28
I've osrt of knock this idea in the head about doing my engine cover as the later ones weight a lot lighter than the Stephens ones so no real point.
Iam sure others will place an order with you. Try the other forums as well.
In the meantime, Iam trying to think of something that I can make on my S4s that is stuble enough not to spoil it.
Good Luck,
Dave Walters
Ps. How did the sunroof turn out in the end? I've just had another two made.
>> Edited by superdave on Thursday 21st October 08:28
Dave, did you get my last email on the roof (rlearp@gt40s.com)? If not, please email me again as my laptop crashed - number 4 for this year!!!!!! Man can I break computers.
On another note, Kylie, how much does the normal engine cover weigh? And, how much would the difference be between it and CF? Just wondering what the driving force might be for one and if the weight savings is worth it. Or, should I just maybe lose 3 pounds and call it a day.
To digress again, when I used to ride motorcyles (and still will, just don't have one at the moment) I would chuckle so hard on Sunday morning at our favorite gathering spot. Nice sportbikes bikes, all tricked out, with some fellows with $3500 in CF parts on their bikes. Might have saved 12-15 lbs if they were lucky.
Then, after breakfast, watch some 190-200lb (and larger) fellow come out and get on said cycle. Obviously overweight, oblivous (or maybe not) to the fact if he'd saved a few bucks a week on Big Macs he'd have that money in his pocket, the CF money in his pocket, and he'd be lighter and healthier. His overall riding weight would be the same too.
Ron
On another note, Kylie, how much does the normal engine cover weigh? And, how much would the difference be between it and CF? Just wondering what the driving force might be for one and if the weight savings is worth it. Or, should I just maybe lose 3 pounds and call it a day.
To digress again, when I used to ride motorcyles (and still will, just don't have one at the moment) I would chuckle so hard on Sunday morning at our favorite gathering spot. Nice sportbikes bikes, all tricked out, with some fellows with $3500 in CF parts on their bikes. Might have saved 12-15 lbs if they were lucky.
Then, after breakfast, watch some 190-200lb (and larger) fellow come out and get on said cycle. Obviously overweight, oblivous (or maybe not) to the fact if he'd saved a few bucks a week on Big Macs he'd have that money in his pocket, the CF money in his pocket, and he'd be lighter and healthier. His overall riding weight would be the same too.
Ron
superdave said:
Dave Walters
Ps. How did the sunroof turn out in the end? I've just had another two made.
>> Edited by superdave on Thursday 21st October 08:28
Thanks Dave knew I would get your support
. I am hoping to use the roof this summer, its starting to warm up over here now so should be great. I just need to drill the holes. Am still comtemplating getting new fixings made up for it, so I can quickly swap over if need be as I prefer the glass roof for shows etc and the CF for track days and hot sunny day trips. Cheers
Kylie
rlearp said:
On another note, Kylie, how much does the normal engine cover weigh? And, how much would the difference be between it and CF? Just wondering what the driving force might be for one and if the weight savings is worth it. Or, should I just maybe lose 3 pounds and call it a day.
Ron I havent weighed the engine lid - I actually forgot before I handed it over, I will get it weighed before it gets pulled to bits. The CF lid will weigh a little bit less as thats the intention but its also its for looks
If your worried about weight yes - go on weight watchers and on do half fills of petrol each time 
I just want my new lid NOW!!Dr.Hess said:
Hey Ron,
Smith says it is easier to get the race car driver to lose weight than the race car.
Dr.Hess
Well, from what I've seen in the SCCA field and of my future competitors I'd say that is definitely true! ;-) No offense! I'm at about 160-165 and will look like a concentration camp escapee at 140, so I don't know how much more I can go. I need some muscles to move things about and drive!
R
Hey there Yeah I am hoping people will chim in and say if they are interested then I can work with the manufactuer what it will cost for numbers. To get the mould made I am looking at over $1800.00 NZD to make the parts with sanding and clear cloating I would amagine be slightly cheaper I am hoping. But I havent been told yet as they want to see a finished article been made first before any cost be calculated. Sorry not much help yet, but will do my best to keep everyone well informed. I asked them yesterday to weigh the lid before they pulled all the trimming off it, so will be interesting to see the weight savings difference.
Yeah I am hoping people will chim in and say if they are interested then I can work with the manufactuer what it will cost for numbers. To get the mould made I am looking at over $1800.00 NZD to make the parts with sanding and clear cloating I would amagine be slightly cheaper I am hoping. But I havent been told yet as they want to see a finished article been made first before any cost be calculated. Sorry not much help yet, but will do my best to keep everyone well informed. I asked them yesterday to weigh the lid before they pulled all the trimming off it, so will be interesting to see the weight savings difference.
Hi Cameron, ta for that, I will follow up with them for sure - great idea The mould is getting made at the moment so am really getting excited!!
The gear box has been sorted out. We pulled the boot out and looked at the shifting mechanism assembly at the rear and it looked like a worn out bearing that was the culprit as the movent was all sloppy and not natural. I got my usual mechanic over to take a look and said it was a small broken bit in the gear box. I took it to a friend who's done his time working on F1 cars and confirmed our findings to be the culprit and the box didn't need to come out. So I am releived in one way but gutted in another as I thought my mechanic would have picked this simple thing up. Anyway all is good just need to get it tuned now, wish I knew how do do that too
>> Edited by kylie on Thursday 28th October 18:29
The mould is getting made at the moment so am really getting excited!! The gear box has been sorted out. We pulled the boot out and looked at the shifting mechanism assembly at the rear and it looked like a worn out bearing that was the culprit as the movent was all sloppy and not natural. I got my usual mechanic over to take a look and said it was a small broken bit in the gear box. I took it to a friend who's done his time working on F1 cars and confirmed our findings to be the culprit and the box didn't need to come out. So I am releived in one way but gutted in another as I thought my mechanic would have picked this simple thing up. Anyway all is good just need to get it tuned now, wish I knew how do do that too
>> Edited by kylie on Thursday 28th October 18:29
hi all. i'm new here. i just purchased an '84 esprit turbo. it's a mess! i noticed you are discussing the practicality of CF parts. i agree that CF does not help much on weight. it is however stiffer than steel. you could actually build your chassis entirely of carbon fiber cost unprohibited. as for my esprit, the first part i'll be making is a front spoiler. the current one is breached, and the previous owners were both timid drivers. i'm sure scraping bottom is a common occurence, which is why a kevlar front spoiler is way practical. it would flex and yet be bulletproof to scraping bottom. by using black tinted resin, i could mimic the carbon fibre look. not sure i like the CF look. too trendy. if any of you need parts, call me. i do my own molds. i'm planning on replacing every panel on the vehicle eventually. i've done it before for stock car racing.
yes dom. i will make the molds available. however, i've got an antique model. only 418 made that year. but if anyone has a pre '88 turbo, i can help. for later models, you'll have to find a friend in s.california, who would volunteer their auto to make molds from. doesn't hurt the finish mind you, but inconvenient for sure. ta ra.
A smell a hijacker on my thread
Hi there am pleased to see another person making their own stuff, I am very familiar with the technical aspects of resins and carbon fibre/kevlar too. You need to start your thread and introduce yourself and post a pic of your car, its just the done thing here....
Cheers
Kylie
Hi there am pleased to see another person making their own stuff, I am very familiar with the technical aspects of resins and carbon fibre/kevlar too. You need to start your thread and introduce yourself and post a pic of your car, its just the done thing here....
Cheers
Kylie
Hi there Teigan, welcome..
Some info for you, and other S3 owners...
Jon Sweet and I recently collaborated on an S3T specific technical web site that includes amongst other things, information on custom parts being developed for the S3T.
We have a number of projects on the go already, including the undertray you discussed. You may want to check them out.
Those of us with an S3T, or those that have knowledge, skills or parts upgrades available, may be interested in getting involved in our technical information and upgrades site.
Jan
Some info for you, and other S3 owners...
Jon Sweet and I recently collaborated on an S3T specific technical web site that includes amongst other things, information on custom parts being developed for the S3T.
We have a number of projects on the go already, including the undertray you discussed. You may want to check them out.
Those of us with an S3T, or those that have knowledge, skills or parts upgrades available, may be interested in getting involved in our technical information and upgrades site.
Jan
Well I have done lots of carbon fibre and mould-making work. And to save 2 or 3 pounds in weight, if that, is a big expense.
If you are going to make a new panel for your car - be it a door bonnet etc, then just making it in carbon and resin is going to weigh just as much as a normal chopped strand matt. You have to put in just as many layers to get similar stiffness. So what do you get? Same weight but the ability to say 'its carbon fibre'!
So what do you do to make strong, lightweight panels? You have to put a honeycomb centre in them! Best technique is to use a vacuum bag system as well. Usual other things like peel plies for excess resin etc. Usually just 3 layers of 200gm matt either side of a 3mm honeycomb will make strong, lightweight panels. Some panels I have made for the Lambo are:
* Front bonnet 2.2kgs complete with aluminium and stainless steel catches
* Rear engine cover 3.8 kgs
* Boot lid 2.4 kgs
* Outer door skin 2.3 kgs
The panels have very little flex, owing to having the honeycomb centre. Its a time-consuming process, but you do get very light and rigid panels.
If you are going to make a new panel for your car - be it a door bonnet etc, then just making it in carbon and resin is going to weigh just as much as a normal chopped strand matt. You have to put in just as many layers to get similar stiffness. So what do you get? Same weight but the ability to say 'its carbon fibre'!
So what do you do to make strong, lightweight panels? You have to put a honeycomb centre in them! Best technique is to use a vacuum bag system as well. Usual other things like peel plies for excess resin etc. Usually just 3 layers of 200gm matt either side of a 3mm honeycomb will make strong, lightweight panels. Some panels I have made for the Lambo are:
* Front bonnet 2.2kgs complete with aluminium and stainless steel catches
* Rear engine cover 3.8 kgs
* Boot lid 2.4 kgs
* Outer door skin 2.3 kgs
The panels have very little flex, owing to having the honeycomb centre. Its a time-consuming process, but you do get very light and rigid panels.
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