Archery anybody?
Discussion
Wifey bought me a couple of taster sessions for my birthday which was a lovely surprise. We both really enjoyed it and have decided to buy our own equipment (possibly this weekend) and join a club. Luckily our back garden is plenty big enough to practice in and our neighbour has done a bit and has a couple of old bows.
Anybody have experience/interest in the sport?
Anybody have experience/interest in the sport?
Used to be a toxopholite many years ago.
Not done it for years, but I do still have a longbow under the stairs.
Enjoy, it can be a bit obsessive, and I hope whatever club you join isn't one of the strict ones run by right wing ancients - you'll find out if it is very quickly, if your trousers aren't the correct shade of green
Not done it for years, but I do still have a longbow under the stairs.
Enjoy, it can be a bit obsessive, and I hope whatever club you join isn't one of the strict ones run by right wing ancients - you'll find out if it is very quickly, if your trousers aren't the correct shade of green
You probably will need to complete a beginners cause before you can join a club to make sure that you are competent and can follow instructions and that you are not a complete idiot. I believe our club have only ever rejected a couple of people for membership.
Don’t buy your own bow equipment yet. To many variables, will you shoot recurve, traditional recurve, compound, long bow, flat bow etc. just use the club bows for a few months, you’ll go up limb poundage so use clubs bows. Then decide which bow type you want to go with and then buy your own.
Ask around at the club as you may find there is somebody who is selling their current equipment, before upgrading.
I did buy a finger tab and arm guard after a couple of weeks of the beginners course as the ones provided were just uncomfortable.
Like most sports/activities it can be done with cheap equipment and very expensive equipment. When you do get your own look at the lower end first and then when you know your going to keep doing it sell that kit on and go better quality.
.
Don’t buy your own bow equipment yet. To many variables, will you shoot recurve, traditional recurve, compound, long bow, flat bow etc. just use the club bows for a few months, you’ll go up limb poundage so use clubs bows. Then decide which bow type you want to go with and then buy your own.
Ask around at the club as you may find there is somebody who is selling their current equipment, before upgrading.
I did buy a finger tab and arm guard after a couple of weeks of the beginners course as the ones provided were just uncomfortable.
Like most sports/activities it can be done with cheap equipment and very expensive equipment. When you do get your own look at the lower end first and then when you know your going to keep doing it sell that kit on and go better quality.
.
Edited by Russ35 on Friday 10th February 13:04
I was an archer for over 30 years. I loved it.
Don't buy any gear until you've done a training course. You'll undoubtedly buy cheap stuff in case you don't like it. Then you'll gain experience and knowledge and your arrow length will grow so the stuff you've already bought will be wasted.
Where are you in the country?
Also, if you ignore all this and buy arrows, don't buy pure carbon. They can't be found with a metal detector when you miss, and you will miss.
Don't buy any gear until you've done a training course. You'll undoubtedly buy cheap stuff in case you don't like it. Then you'll gain experience and knowledge and your arrow length will grow so the stuff you've already bought will be wasted.
Where are you in the country?
Also, if you ignore all this and buy arrows, don't buy pure carbon. They can't be found with a metal detector when you miss, and you will miss.
Johnspex said:
I was an archer for over 30 years. I loved it.
Don't buy any gear until you've done a training course. You'll undoubtedly buy cheap stuff in case you don't like it. Then you'll gain experience and knowledge and your arrow length will grow so the stuff you've already bought will be wasted.
Where are you in the country?
Also, if you ignore all this and buy arrows, don't buy pure carbon. They can't be found with a metal detector when you miss, and you will miss.
We live in Usk Monmouthshire and just got back from Wales Archery Specialists it's only a 20 minute drive. £640 later Wifey is sortedDon't buy any gear until you've done a training course. You'll undoubtedly buy cheap stuff in case you don't like it. Then you'll gain experience and knowledge and your arrow length will grow so the stuff you've already bought will be wasted.
Where are you in the country?
Also, if you ignore all this and buy arrows, don't buy pure carbon. They can't be found with a metal detector when you miss, and you will miss.
and happy. Just ordered mine online as they don't stock Sanlida stuff but in fairness the boss did check with their Belgium suppliers who could get it in 2 weeks but about £200 dearer. Specs to follow...............Please all be VERY careful shooting bows in back gardens/fields. Modern bows (especially compounds) will easily send an arrow way past 100m with lethal force. No matter how good you think you are, even if 'you' never miss then at some point your equipment will fail (arrow rest falls off, fletching peels away, nocking point slips, etc.) and an arrow WILL miss the target.
Either shoot indoors (in a garage, say), shoot towards a large impenetrable backstop (a brick wall side of a two storey building) or have a long overshoot to the sides/rear (Archery GB recommend a minimum of 150 yards from shooting line to the end of the overshoot, for compound bows).
https://www.archerygb.org/files/Handy-Guide-Settin...
It's a great sport, but please pursue it safely
Either shoot indoors (in a garage, say), shoot towards a large impenetrable backstop (a brick wall side of a two storey building) or have a long overshoot to the sides/rear (Archery GB recommend a minimum of 150 yards from shooting line to the end of the overshoot, for compound bows).
https://www.archerygb.org/files/Handy-Guide-Settin...
It's a great sport, but please pursue it safely
Well, that's keen ! I was going to say "hold off buying" like the others but it sounds a bit late now.
Still, you're only doing exactly what I did about 5yrs ago and whilst I'll freely admit I wasted my money on the first set-up I did shoot it for months and it gave me the confidence to join a club and go from there. I'm well past that stage now but don't regret a single penny.
Most clubs will insist on either previous experience or a beginners course. No matter what the cost, a course is a good idea before you develop bad habits through lack of knowledge or even worse, injure yourself. That might sound negative but it's not meant to be, you will learn so much, make friends and have a great time.
The reason everyone says "hold off buying" is that when you first start your draw length and bow poundage will be low but increase rapidly. Then you'll see all the gear that others have and... well it can get expensive, but after all, it's only money.
Still, you're only doing exactly what I did about 5yrs ago and whilst I'll freely admit I wasted my money on the first set-up I did shoot it for months and it gave me the confidence to join a club and go from there. I'm well past that stage now but don't regret a single penny.
Most clubs will insist on either previous experience or a beginners course. No matter what the cost, a course is a good idea before you develop bad habits through lack of knowledge or even worse, injure yourself. That might sound negative but it's not meant to be, you will learn so much, make friends and have a great time.
The reason everyone says "hold off buying" is that when you first start your draw length and bow poundage will be low but increase rapidly. Then you'll see all the gear that others have and... well it can get expensive, but after all, it's only money.
Good and welcome advice from all. We have done 'basic' beginners stuff and even got a certificate 
which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK 
Here's Wifey this morning trying her bow for the first time to tune in her sights at 15 metres...............
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK Here's Wifey this morning trying her bow for the first time to tune in her sights at 15 metres...............
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
dickymint said:
Good and welcome advice from all. We have done 'basic' beginners stuff and even got a certificate which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK
Here's Wifey this morning trying her bow for the first time to tune in her sights at 15 metres...............
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
You're doing well if you're already aiming for bees. Took me years to be able to do that. which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK Here's Wifey this morning trying her bow for the first time to tune in her sights at 15 metres...............
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
dickymint said:
Good and welcome advice from all. We have done 'basic' beginners stuff and even got a certificate which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
Sounds like you've got the basics & safety covered, we give certificates after a course as well. which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
50m of overshoot for that type of bow will be ok, the Archery GB overshoot guidelines for a low poundage bow are very conservative. You can get 100yds with 30lbs but you're trying very hard.
If you're using sights then your next purchase is a long rod. Even the cheapest one will make the bow feel more balanced at full draw and it will reduce the tendency to move side to side. The first time our coach put one on my bow I couldn't get over the difference such a cheap bit of kit made.....
b2hbm said:
dickymint said:
Good and welcome advice from all. We have done 'basic' beginners stuff and even got a certificate which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK
Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
Sounds like you've got the basics & safety covered, we give certificates after a course as well. which apparently allows us to join any club in the UK Beyond the fence is a further 50 meres of our garden so not too concerned of overshooting other than upsetting the bees at my apiary
50m of overshoot for that type of bow will be ok, the Archery GB overshoot guidelines for a low poundage bow are very conservative. You can get 100yds with 30lbs but you're trying very hard.
If you're using sights then your next purchase is a long rod. Even the cheapest one will make the bow feel more balanced at full draw and it will reduce the tendency to move side to side. The first time our coach put one on my bow I couldn't get over the difference such a cheap bit of kit made.....
https://thearcheryshop.co.uk/sanlida-miracle-x10-r...
Has some really good youtube reviews especially by Rogue Archery .......
And a more critical and less biased review by Jake Kaminski............
Question: It's a 68" (25" riser) bow, my draw length is 27.5" so I ordered 30LB limbs - does that sound sensible as a beginner?
30# might be a little heavy for immediately developing good form but probably not dangerously so and most men will be able to build up to that without developing particularly bad habits. Buying slightly unsuitable equipment straight off the bat and then needing to replace it within a couple of years is a rite of passage in archery, most of us have been there.
Do be careful shooting around things that you don't want to make holes in, damage or wear to equipment (bent arrows for example) can cause some really unpredictable behaviour, you occasionally see damaged arrows take a 30° turn after leaving the bow. Even a light bow will easily send an arrow 150+m if it's on the right/wrong trajectory. A club really is the best/safest place to shoot if you don't have a clear and secure 150x40m space.
Edit: Or a nice solid backstop all around, like a high wall (beware of ricochets) or a big dip in the ground, field archery regs would help determine something appropriate on that score.
Do be careful shooting around things that you don't want to make holes in, damage or wear to equipment (bent arrows for example) can cause some really unpredictable behaviour, you occasionally see damaged arrows take a 30° turn after leaving the bow. Even a light bow will easily send an arrow 150+m if it's on the right/wrong trajectory. A club really is the best/safest place to shoot if you don't have a clear and secure 150x40m space.
Edit: Or a nice solid backstop all around, like a high wall (beware of ricochets) or a big dip in the ground, field archery regs would help determine something appropriate on that score.
Edited by Mikey_Beep on Monday 13th February 12:35
dickymint said:
Question: It's a 68" (25" riser) bow, my draw length is 27.5" so I ordered 30LB limbs - does that sound sensible as a beginner?
Like other have said, 30lb is on the high side for beginner, but as long as you could hold anchor comfortably it should be fine, and have you check the limb length against your draw length, because you might draw less than indicate draw weight if you have a long limb or more than 30lb if it is a short limb
kurokawa said:
dickymint said:
Question: It's a 68" (25" riser) bow, my draw length is 27.5" so I ordered 30LB limbs - does that sound sensible as a beginner?
Like other have said, 30lb is on the high side for beginner, but as long as you could hold anchor comfortably it should be fine, and have you check the limb length against your draw length, because you might draw less than indicate draw weight if you have a long limb or more than 30lb if it is a short limb
Mikey_Beep said:
30# might be a little heavy for immediately developing good form but probably not dangerously so and most men will be able to build up to that without developing particularly bad habits. Buying slightly unsuitable equipment straight off the bat and then needing to replace it within a couple of years is a rite of passage in archery, most of us have been there.
Do be careful shooting around things that you don't want to make holes in, damage or wear to equipment (bent arrows for example) can cause some really unpredictable behaviour, you occasionally see damaged arrows take a 30° turn after leaving the bow. Even a light bow will easily send an arrow 150+m if it's on the right/wrong trajectory. A club really is the best/safest place to shoot if you don't have a clear and secure 150x40m space.
Edit: Or a nice solid backstop all around, like a high wall (beware of ricochets) or a big dip in the ground, field archery regs would help determine something appropriate on that score.
I was worried about the weight so had a chat with the supplier who agreed so dropped it down to 26LB. To be honest the Wifes 22LB felt ok so probably just as well and maybe the stabilizers will help with the extra. Do be careful shooting around things that you don't want to make holes in, damage or wear to equipment (bent arrows for example) can cause some really unpredictable behaviour, you occasionally see damaged arrows take a 30° turn after leaving the bow. Even a light bow will easily send an arrow 150+m if it's on the right/wrong trajectory. A club really is the best/safest place to shoot if you don't have a clear and secure 150x40m space.
Edit: Or a nice solid backstop all around, like a high wall (beware of ricochets) or a big dip in the ground, field archery regs would help determine something appropriate on that score.
Edited by Mikey_Beep on Monday 13th February 12:35
As an engineer and used to setting up machinery with fine tolerances I'm really enjoying the tuning tutorials on Youtube - I'm amazed at how complex this sport can be!
dickymint said:
I was worried about the weight so had a chat with the supplier who agreed so dropped it down to 26LB. To be honest the Wifes 22LB felt ok so probably just as well and maybe the stabilizers will help with the extra.
As an engineer and used to setting up machinery with fine tolerances I'm really enjoying the tuning tutorials on Youtube - I'm amazed at how complex this sport can be!
Dropping the weight is sensible, at this stage it's more important to develop the correct form/alignment than physical strength in drawing the bow. I also bought 30lb for my first limbs but after starting the beginners course with 15lb limbs and realising the difference, I bought a lower poundage set to practice at home. (I did say it could get expensive....)As an engineer and used to setting up machinery with fine tolerances I'm really enjoying the tuning tutorials on Youtube - I'm amazed at how complex this sport can be!
At this stage I'd advise not to get too hung up on tuning. Until you develop consistency in your technique/shooting then you can go round in circles trying to tune the bow.
Just set it up and shoot. When you're grouping your arrows consistently, and more importantly can recognise when you've done a bad shot before it hits, that's the time to get into fine tuning.
There's loads of youtube videos, the trick is finding sensible ones ! I like Kaminski and also Archery GB's Lloyd Brown and the Online Archery Academy for coaching. In case you've not found them yet....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_heSKsoI9o&ab...
https://www.youtube.com/@OnlineArcheryAcademy
dickymint said:
As an engineer and used to setting up machinery with fine tolerances I'm really enjoying the tuning tutorials on Youtube - I'm amazed at how complex this sport can be!
You should give compound a try at later stage. I switch to compound for about 10 years, outside control breathing, mastering release and developing the posture.
Spent a lot of time fine tuning the equipment's
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