Indoor climbing newbie etiquette

[Tiggsy]

I just joined my local indoor climbing centre. I have zero interest in climbing outside so will never move on from this environment. Primarily, I'm doing it to work on my grip strength and fitness for my main hobby which is obstacle course racing (It got a bit boring hanging from a variety of grip devices in my garage gym!)

So my expectation is to go down and use the auto belay routes and bouldering section. Occasionally with my partner who is also joined, but often alone.

Having done the introduction course I am now able to walk in, clip on and climb up!!!!

During the induction-there were a couple of auto belay routes free so the instructor just used those. All very straightforward and I am hoping that, as I am able to use it mid-morning, It will be quiet enough that I can do the same....... but, what is the etiquette if all the auto routes are busy? do you just go and boulder till it frees up? do you stand around looking keen to go next! is there a go up and down once then move on type rule to stick to (or if no one else is waiting can I go up and down all day?)

Dont want to be that guy in the way! or getting it wrong! Looking like a tt!

Also - at 220lbs.......do auto belays ever fail? Seems very "sketchy" as the kids say to just let go and hope the giant retractable dog lead does its thing!!!!

[happygoron]

I've no experience of autobelays but at gyms I've been to nobody minds you hanging around waiting for a route to clear. If it's obvious theres a few in a group taking turns then it's probably worth going elsewhere for a bit rather than hanging about, but I suppose the autobelays can build a queue.

I'm sure the safety margin is pretty substantial on them!

[ILikeCake]

Yep noone will mind you hanging around (pun intended) and waiting. Where I go people quite often watch to get ideas on how to do difficult routes. Personally I just kill time bouldering.

I've never met anyone who started climbing and didn't go on to belay climbing. You will get the bug

Going with a partner and belaying properly will open up many more routes... Including overhangs (which don't tend to be on the autos) which would improve your grip strength massively.

From there lead climbing will help your goal of grip strength. There's nothing quite like holding some weird yoga position half way up the wall and trying to clip in!

[dragonflyjade]

I do not think anyone would mind you waiting if they have nearly completed the auto-belay route. Climbing is a great social sport I find.

Otherwise, keep warm and work on technique on the bouldering; quiet feet and hand holds you really do not like will help you with the walls.

[Smitters]

dragonflyjade said:

quiet feet

Superb advice.

Also, try to climb like a girl. That's to say, don't overcome problems with brute force/strength. Women often climb with significantly more elegance than men because the natural strength disparity means they develop superior technique. Subtly different foot, hip and knee positions can yield success. Bouldering is great for this.

Enjoy. I miss climbing a lot.

[Tiggsy]

Enjoying it.

Go on a Wednesday at 9.30am every week and the place is empty.....no need to worry about etiquette!