The climbing and mountaineering thread...
Discussion
I have no idea how this'll go! I thought it would be good to share plans and experiences...
I rock climbed for years in my teens and twenties, with an occasional trip to Scotland in winter. Then had a lull while I got fat and out of shape and have started again now the kids are getting older and capable of doing a bit. And in the last few years have discovered the Alps (Which was a bit of a wtf were we thinking not to have tried this sooner moment.)
I have a couple of weekends in June planned, one to Wales and one to the Alps, plus a family holiday in the Italian Lakes and Dolomites for some via ferrata and climbing.
I'm just looking at ditching my ageing DMM Raptor ice axes and going leashless if anyone's been through the same.
Cue the tumbleweed...
I rock climbed for years in my teens and twenties, with an occasional trip to Scotland in winter. Then had a lull while I got fat and out of shape and have started again now the kids are getting older and capable of doing a bit. And in the last few years have discovered the Alps (Which was a bit of a wtf were we thinking not to have tried this sooner moment.)
I have a couple of weekends in June planned, one to Wales and one to the Alps, plus a family holiday in the Italian Lakes and Dolomites for some via ferrata and climbing.
I'm just looking at ditching my ageing DMM Raptor ice axes and going leashless if anyone's been through the same.
Cue the tumbleweed...
Bill, you are me. Except I do less.
Spent my 20's rock climbing, and my 30's trying to climb harder. Managed some great routes, and some great times. Much more fun than anything else I've done before or after.
Went on honeymoon to the Dolomites to climb Via ferrata. That was nice too.
Introduced the kids to it. One is very good, but hates the exposure, and the other will tolerate exposure.
Really badly want to climb again when the kids are older.
Spent my 20's rock climbing, and my 30's trying to climb harder. Managed some great routes, and some great times. Much more fun than anything else I've done before or after.
Went on honeymoon to the Dolomites to climb Via ferrata. That was nice too.
Introduced the kids to it. One is very good, but hates the exposure, and the other will tolerate exposure.
Really badly want to climb again when the kids are older.
bearman68 said:
Bill, you are me. Except I do less.
I'm not sure that's possible! 
(ETA doing less I mean... Last year I did one weekend in the Lakes.)How old are your kids? Mine are 11, and 8y-o twins. The twins are a bit more wary but my eldest is utterly unflappable.
Edited by Bill on Saturday 23 March 20:14
See you are me! I have (nearly) 13 yr old twins.
We've had a few weekends in Snowdonia, a few on Grit (Windgather rocks are good), Stanage (I walked past Black slab it had been so long since I was there), and a few days on Bosigran.
But this year I think it's going to be scrambling more than climbing to get some speed of movement, fitness and confidence.
We've had a few weekends in Snowdonia, a few on Grit (Windgather rocks are good), Stanage (I walked past Black slab it had been so long since I was there), and a few days on Bosigran.
But this year I think it's going to be scrambling more than climbing to get some speed of movement, fitness and confidence.
bearman68 said:
twins.
Why would you do that?!? The main limit is my wife as she worries when she isn't there and has wobbles when she is. We were on Y Gribin last summer and everything was fine until the mist lifted a bit and she realised how high up we were. And when she started to go the twins started too.
Best sport. Ever. At university in 1968 we spent the summer in Langdale ticking off most of the XS in Allan Austin’s newly published 1967 guide. Then in ’69 Crew’s Gogarth guide came out so we went there and did the same when it was too wet in the Pass or on Cloggy.
Sadly, by early '70's it was over, family, career, work overseas etc intervened.
But now 50 years later I’m still enjoying a day in the hills. First photo taken in ’70 is the Cassin Route on Cima Ouvest. The second on the Albristhöre was taken 48 years later in October 2018.
The magic of the mountains never fades.
Sadly, by early '70's it was over, family, career, work overseas etc intervened.
But now 50 years later I’m still enjoying a day in the hills. First photo taken in ’70 is the Cassin Route on Cima Ouvest. The second on the Albristhöre was taken 48 years later in October 2018.
The magic of the mountains never fades.
Spent a lot of my late teens and 20s climbing rock, the odd bit of ice, and general mountaineering.
Now heading into mid 30s and have hardly climbed any rock in the last few years, but still get out into the hills hiking and easy mountaineering. Would like to get into steeper stuff again but need to get the fitness back to a more respectable level first.
Edited by GravelBen on Monday 25th March 19:14
GravelBen said:
Would like to get into steeper stuff again but need to get the fitness back to a more respectable level first.
I help out with the Scouts and we went to the bouldering wall in Poole a few weeks ago. One of the leaders is 21 and while I kept up briefly I soon faded and he started taking the piss out of ageing trad climbers. I was trying to do the maths about our respective ages for a quick come back, but worked out I'd done all my beast climbing and had started getting fat before he was born.
Bookmarking this thread. I've never been a big climber but always enjoyed the hills and mountains but I've got an 11 year old who is wall climbing mad, spent Saturday at an area comp in kendal, its mad how this sport is taking off with the Olympic hype. Watching what the kids can do is insane, 11 and 12 year olds leading 7b+ and flashing v7 boulders, makes me feel so weak.
Must try to get her outside on some grit this summer.
Must try to get her outside on some grit this summer.
If we're sharing photos, here is the last 'proper' climb I did, nearly 3 years ago - 500m of easy but exposed alpine rock.
Campsite and Butterfly Buttress by Ben, on Flickr
Topped out just on dark after a late start (waiting for the rock to dry a bit), which made for an interesting descent back to camp.
Top of Bruce Peak at dusk by Ben, on Flickr
Looks more impressive from this angle - the route more or less follows straight up the prominent buttress in the centre.
Descending below Bruce Peak by Ben, on Flickr
Campsite and Butterfly Buttress by Ben, on FlickrTopped out just on dark after a late start (waiting for the rock to dry a bit), which made for an interesting descent back to camp.
Top of Bruce Peak at dusk by Ben, on FlickrLooks more impressive from this angle - the route more or less follows straight up the prominent buttress in the centre.
Descending below Bruce Peak by Ben, on FlickrEdited by GravelBen on Tuesday 26th March 05:08
Not dissimilar - climbed myself inside out until my late 30's. To the point that I bought a flat opposite the Castle climbing wall so I could train 3 hours a night.
A combination of life, work and tendinitis did for me.
Added to that numerous trips Scottish and Lakes winters, Alps and a few trips to the Rockies, Peru and Chile for the bigger stuff. I still try to keep my winter and alpine hand in.
It's like riding a bike though, the muscle memory is still there, just need a few trips to the wall and off to the Peak we go....if a little fatter...
As to the question about leashless- I run leashed Aztars for the Alpine and lower grade mixed stuff. Leashless for the steeper ice. What I found was that I had to really nail my footwork. Once I had honed in on that, my grades went up and I found it less tiring on a WI5 than a mid grade gully on the Buchaille.
Labradorofperception said:
As to the question about leashless- I run leashed Aztars for the Alpine and lower grade mixed stuff. Leashless for the steeper ice. What I found was that I had to really nail my footwork. Once I had honed in on that, my grades went up and I found it less tiring on a WI5 than a mid grade gully on the Buchaille.
Interesting you still use leashes on easier stuff. Is that just because you can't easily convert them to leashless, and have better tools for the steep stuff? I got caught out on Gardyloo Gully years and years ago as it had a steep section of ice at the top. Never having done anything anywhere near that steep or technical before i plugged my way up it, but in hindsight the leashes were a massive hindrance while placing gear. AIUI most of the time it isn't that bad, and I guess these days you'd be better prepared due to the internet, but it's made me think. Reading around I can't see any occasion a leash is an advantage.
My "back in the day" photos have been relegated to the loft, so here's my first proper alpine route a couple of years ago. (Cosmique Arete, not that you can tell...)
Many thanks for starting this thread, it is certainly bringing back a few memories.
Here’s another from the early ‘70’s. Descending from top of Mont Blanc after doing the Old Brenva on the Brenva Face from the Trident hut. Teams on the Ordinary Route on their way up just visible. More important you can just see the Vallot Hut in the sun at the extreme right edge of the photo. It is pretty grim on the Blanc if the weather turns and knowing how to find the Vallot can be a lifesaver.
Here’s another from the early ‘70’s. Descending from top of Mont Blanc after doing the Old Brenva on the Brenva Face from the Trident hut. Teams on the Ordinary Route on their way up just visible. More important you can just see the Vallot Hut in the sun at the extreme right edge of the photo. It is pretty grim on the Blanc if the weather turns and knowing how to find the Vallot can be a lifesaver.
Went to see "Free solo" last week he needs his bumps feeling, good looking GF though
Some great clips of it on YouTube
https://youtu.be/urRVZ4SW7WU
Some great clips of it on YouTube
https://youtu.be/urRVZ4SW7WU
My OH and I climbed Kilimanjaro last month. I've probably reached my big mountain limit now and would prefer less demanding but prettier climbs but she's already planning to climb Mt Elbrus in the summer. 
Camping under the stars by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Summit morning by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Uhuru Summit 5895m, Kilimanjaro by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Camping under the stars by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Summit morning by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Uhuru Summit 5895m, Kilimanjaro by Jason Cross, on Flickr
Bill said:
Interesting you still use leashes on easier stuff. Is that just because you can't easily convert them to leashless, and have better tools for the steep stuff?
I got caught out on Gardyloo Gully years and years ago as it had a steep section of ice at the top. Never having done anything anywhere near that steep or technical before i plugged my way up it, but in hindsight the leashes were a massive hindrance while placing gear. AIUI most of the time it isn't that bad, and I guess these days you'd be better prepared due to the internet, but it's made me think. Reading around I can't see any occasion a leash is an advantage.
My "back in the day" photos have been relegated to the loft, so here's my first proper alpine route a couple of years ago. (Cosmique Arete, not that you can tell...)
Hi BillI got caught out on Gardyloo Gully years and years ago as it had a steep section of ice at the top. Never having done anything anywhere near that steep or technical before i plugged my way up it, but in hindsight the leashes were a massive hindrance while placing gear. AIUI most of the time it isn't that bad, and I guess these days you'd be better prepared due to the internet, but it's made me think. Reading around I can't see any occasion a leash is an advantage.
My "back in the day" photos have been relegated to the loft, so here's my first proper alpine route a couple of years ago. (Cosmique Arete, not that you can tell...)
I tend to find on steeper stuff the leashes really are a pain, they get tangled, freeze and create an over reliance on the arms.
On the less steep stuff I tend to dagger or on mixed, will use my hands, so the leashes just let my axe(s) hang free. I also find leashless on these routes (if I am using a line) tangle. If not using a line, the drop risk is too great for a hamfisted muppet like me.
I also find the less extreme design of leashed axes better suited to the more thuggish approach to lower grade winter and alpine stuff up to D.
Cosmiques is a lovely route - not a long route but lots of variation and interest and a top out to rapturous applause from Japanese tourists who think you're the next Uli Steck.
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