Anyone into climbing?

[focusxr5]

Quite fancy getting into rock climbing. Been to an indoor bouldering wall a few times and been researching the various ropes courses at my local wall. I have pretty good grip and core strength and balance, so I think based on limited experience that it's something I could become quite good at. Any advice or tips for a novice starting out?

[nammynake]

Used to do it regularly (outdoors), mainly bouldering. Do a basic ropes (belay) course, practice, then follow up with a lead-climb course.

Although grip is important for overhanging stuff and small holds, beginners tend to grip too tightly rather than relying on their feet. Your legs are far stronger than your arms, so use your feet where possible and relax your grip. Climbing shoes can stick to much smaller features than you'll believe.

[focusxr5]

Thanks. I've already been told to let my legs do the work and trust your ropes so I think initially I have a few points to work on. Is it best to work up on indoor and then progress to outdoor? I know they're totally different disciplines but I would like to eventually do some outdoor stuff.

[ewenm]

focusxr5 said:

Thanks. I've already been told to let my legs do the work and trust your ropes so I think initially I have a few points to work on. Is it best to work up on indoor and then progress to outdoor? I know they're totally different disciplines but I would like to eventually do some outdoor stuff.

Outdoor climbing in winter in the UK is often a cold miserable experience. I'd stay indoors for the winter and early spring, learn the skills (do a beginners course), and make some climbing buddies - you can then head outside when it's warm/dry with your trusted climbing friends.

[battered]

I'm a keen rock climber, been at it many years. There's good advice above, join a local club, get some training in belay technique and gear placement. Aspire to going out come spring, before then use the winter to get fit and work on your rope skills. Learn how to place a runner and rig a belay anchor until you can do it in your sleep.

Trad outdoor climbing has a high entry level, you can't really start doing it and potter about like you can on, say, a golf course. If you don't know what you are doing then you are a liability to yourself and others. It is however the best sport in the world and it has taken me to some amazing places.

[GTO-3R]

I used to climb a lot with a friend up until a couple of years ago. We were leading E2's so climbing at a decent level. My advice would be to learn all the basics first indoors and don't try and run before you can walk. Take your time with progression and push yourself in small increments, indoors is best for this as its far safer. Use your legs and just enjoy it!

[focusxr5]

Thanks guys.
I don't think I will be, or expect to be fantastic at it right from the off. I plan on sticking with indoor for the whole of 2016 while I gain experience and certainly while I learn to lead climb. Maybe look to push outside in 2017 if I'm ready by then and make some friends within the circuit who are experienced enough to take me out. Booked in my first lesson at the Byker Wall in Newcastle. Looking forward to it.

[ewenm]

Indoor and outdoor are quite different. I learnt outdoor, top-roping/seconding then moving on to leading. In your position I'd try to get out top-roping this summer as it's definitely different to indoor and worth experiencing early.

[GTO-3R]

Climbing past you first piece of gear on a lead climb is an ass twitching but satisfying feeling....when you get that next piece in

[battered]

Yes, I think we all relax a bit when there are 2 pieces of gear between us and the deck. It doesn't help much on things like Sunset Slab and still less on things like Sundowner (never quite had the bravery for that one on lead), but 2 pieces are always reassuring. Sometimes you don't get that luxury. The opening section of Dreamboat Annie is exciting at low tide, the landing is shocking and that first placement is a long way up. After that, it's a breeze.

[Hoofy]

focusxr5 said:

I have pretty good grip and core strength and balance,

Try a 7c.

Yes, core strength and balance do help. It's a lot of fun and constantly challenges you.

I mainly do indoor stuff due to my location.

Advice for a beginner? Don't try a 7c. Take it slowly. Your muscular strength will improve very quickly but your ligament, joint and tendon strength will take a lot longer to improve. If you get an injury don't be tempted to push through. No pain, no longer term injury affecting your performance. If you touch those fingerboards or campus boards you get at climbing centres, stick to the big juggy holds to develop endurance. Don't be tempted to try a finger pocket or crimpy hold as you'll bugger up a finger and it takes months to heal.

[battered]

Personally I find 7c to be extremely safe for me, for the simple reason that I can't generally leave the ground.

[Hoofy]

battered said:

Personally I find 7c to be extremely safe for me, for the simple reason that I can't generally leave the ground.

Safe for you, unsafe for your fingers.

I find that I can often leave the ground on harder routes then about 2ft off the ground, just after the point where I've thought, "This isn't so bad..." I then come to a hold which might as well be a trick 50p piece that was glued to the wall. I'll try to hold it in different ways, then eventually peel off the wall with sore forearms and fingers.

Edited by Hoofy on Tuesday 19th January 12:19

[GTO-3R]

Talking about safety with second gear placement, I tried top roping Gaia once and couldn't do it. I now have huge HUGE respect for those who lead it and even more for those (Alex Honnold) who have solo'd it

[GravelBen]

I find indoor climbing a bit boring and artificial compared to outdoors, but its good for training when the weather is uncooperative. Real rock isn't scary or fundamentally dangerous but its definitely sensible to work your way into it by learning with more experienced climbers.

Once you get a bit of experience you can graduate to alpine climbing