Invader ignition blues
Discussion
My 1969 Invader has an ignition problem can anyone help or have any idea's?
On the points,the plastic arm that runs on the cam to create the points gap, keeps melting! Not where it cotacts the cam but where it touches the metal part at the rear. As it melts,the gap closes and the car stops as there is no gap to create the spark. I have changed the points,condenser,
rotor arm & tried a spare coil I had in the garage plus renewed the wire from dizzy to coil & earth wire from points plate to dizzy body. Same again, car ran for 2 mins & died, on checking the points, they had burned & closed. Is it a special coil for the Gilbern or the same as fitted to the Capri 3.0 & Granada mk1 (Essex 3.0 V6 engines). So if anyone has any idea's can they either put them on here or mail me at davidjones66@blueyonder.co.uk Thanks a lot. Dave Jones.
On the points,the plastic arm that runs on the cam to create the points gap, keeps melting! Not where it cotacts the cam but where it touches the metal part at the rear. As it melts,the gap closes and the car stops as there is no gap to create the spark. I have changed the points,condenser,
rotor arm & tried a spare coil I had in the garage plus renewed the wire from dizzy to coil & earth wire from points plate to dizzy body. Same again, car ran for 2 mins & died, on checking the points, they had burned & closed. Is it a special coil for the Gilbern or the same as fitted to the Capri 3.0 & Granada mk1 (Essex 3.0 V6 engines). So if anyone has any idea's can they either put them on here or mail me at davidjones66@blueyonder.co.uk Thanks a lot. Dave Jones.
Dave,
this sounds like coil related issues ? I recall the coil should be ballast resistant at 8 volts & not operate at 12volts all time. The other thought I have had is the wire that is fitted between the dizzy base plate & the points.....Is this is good condition as they often are never looked at....they do break down, causing strange effects.
Phil Ivimey at the GOC is very good on this type of question.
I think he wrote about coils etc in the last Rarebit magazine?
Regards Julian
this sounds like coil related issues ? I recall the coil should be ballast resistant at 8 volts & not operate at 12volts all time. The other thought I have had is the wire that is fitted between the dizzy base plate & the points.....Is this is good condition as they often are never looked at....they do break down, causing strange effects.
Phil Ivimey at the GOC is very good on this type of question.
I think he wrote about coils etc in the last Rarebit magazine?
Regards Julian
THANKS JULIAN,I'M IN THE GILBERN CLUB & SPOKE TO PHIL & HE SAID SAME.I'VE NEVER HAD A BALLAST RESISTOR ON THE CAR & WONDER WHY I SHOULD NEED ONE NOW.THE FIRST THING I DID WAS CHANGE POINTS & CONDENSER PLUS REWIRED BASE PLATE TO DIZZY BODY & NEW WIRE FROM DIZZY TO COIL.STILL BURNT POINTS.SO AM FITTING NEW COIL (THE ORIGINAL MAY BE DAMAGED RUNNING CONSTANTLY @ 12 VOLTS)NEW POINTS CONDENSER & WIRING IN A BALLAST RESISTOR
I BELIEVE ITS A STRAIGHTFORWARD JOB?? REGARDS,DAVE.
I BELIEVE ITS A STRAIGHTFORWARD JOB?? REGARDS,DAVE.
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