R56 Interior Dead - No Electrics
Discussion
Hi,
I have a 2012 R56 Cooper S. The car doesn't get used a lot and when I went to start it earlier this week it struggled to start and there was a grinding noise (like the starter motor not disengaging). I started it a second time, thinking the noise wouldn't happen again, which it did. On the third attempt to start it (when someone else was with the car to observe/advise) it appears that the battery had died, because it wouldn't start.
So I purchased a new one and fitted it. Then when I inserted the key (ignition not turned on) the wipers started and couldn't be turned off. When the ignition was turned on the car started to display numerous failures (ABS, DSC, Cruise Control, Steering Power Assistance to name some of them). I then started the engine. It struggled, but would run. All the failures were still displayed, wipers were still going. The headlights and hazard lights appeared to still be working correctly. Plugged the car into a code reader and it was displaying numerous faults that pointed to the footwell module.
So after a quick look on Google, found a local guy who said he could repair it the next day. Took it to him and he said there is nothing wrong with the software and there is no visible water damage. So in his opinion it must be something else causing the issues. Came back home and refitted the footwell module. Reconnected the battery and straight away there was clicking sounds (like a relay going mad) from the JBE in the drivers footwell (RHD UK spec car). The only way to stop the clicking was to disconnect the battery. After rechecking the connections on the footwell module, the battery was reconnected. No clicking from the JBE this time, but the car interior is completely dead/dark.
Inserting the key does nothing. Rev counter doesn't turn on like normal, no noises from the steering lock, no sat nav screen. Pressing the start button to turn the ignition on does nothing, which also means the engine can't be started. The boot lid can't be opened. But the horn still works. When the battery is disconnected/reconnected there is still a clicking sound in the engine bay.
I have a 2012 R56 Cooper S. The car doesn't get used a lot and when I went to start it earlier this week it struggled to start and there was a grinding noise (like the starter motor not disengaging). I started it a second time, thinking the noise wouldn't happen again, which it did. On the third attempt to start it (when someone else was with the car to observe/advise) it appears that the battery had died, because it wouldn't start.
So I purchased a new one and fitted it. Then when I inserted the key (ignition not turned on) the wipers started and couldn't be turned off. When the ignition was turned on the car started to display numerous failures (ABS, DSC, Cruise Control, Steering Power Assistance to name some of them). I then started the engine. It struggled, but would run. All the failures were still displayed, wipers were still going. The headlights and hazard lights appeared to still be working correctly. Plugged the car into a code reader and it was displaying numerous faults that pointed to the footwell module.
So after a quick look on Google, found a local guy who said he could repair it the next day. Took it to him and he said there is nothing wrong with the software and there is no visible water damage. So in his opinion it must be something else causing the issues. Came back home and refitted the footwell module. Reconnected the battery and straight away there was clicking sounds (like a relay going mad) from the JBE in the drivers footwell (RHD UK spec car). The only way to stop the clicking was to disconnect the battery. After rechecking the connections on the footwell module, the battery was reconnected. No clicking from the JBE this time, but the car interior is completely dead/dark.
Inserting the key does nothing. Rev counter doesn't turn on like normal, no noises from the steering lock, no sat nav screen. Pressing the start button to turn the ignition on does nothing, which also means the engine can't be started. The boot lid can't be opened. But the horn still works. When the battery is disconnected/reconnected there is still a clicking sound in the engine bay.
90% likely to be the battery, modern cars throw all sorts of seemingly random faults when the battery is on its way out.
Grinding noise not sure about.
Job #1
Recharge the battery overnight & then test voltage at battery terminals, should be around 12.6v if the battery is any good.
Job #2
Tell us the results of the test & we will tell you what to do next.
Grinding noise not sure about.
Job #1
Recharge the battery overnight & then test voltage at battery terminals, should be around 12.6v if the battery is any good.
Job #2
Tell us the results of the test & we will tell you what to do next.
E-bmw said:
90% likely to be the battery, modern cars throw all sorts of seemingly random faults when the battery is on its way out.
Grinding noise not sure about.
Job #1
Recharge the battery overnight & then test voltage at battery terminals, should be around 12.6v if the battery is any good.
Job #2
Tell us the results of the test & we will tell you what to do next.
It's had a brand new Exide AGM battery. All the failure warnings and uncontrollable wipers etc appeared after the new battery was fitted.Grinding noise not sure about.
Job #1
Recharge the battery overnight & then test voltage at battery terminals, should be around 12.6v if the battery is any good.
Job #2
Tell us the results of the test & we will tell you what to do next.
You're saying it struggled to crank off a brand new battery? First thing I'd do is put a multimeter across the battery, rule out a dud, then check your earths. Is there anything aftermarket on the car? Stereo, Parrot etc. Multiple module warnings sound like can or k bus problems to me. What happens if you clear the codes, do they all come back instantly?
I have an R53 that did this last year. The consistent issue was a k bus network fault. On these cars, all of the modules run off a handful of bus networks & they all go through the BCM in the footwell & the main computer unit in the speedo. Your dead battery may have kicked off something in the network. As an easy test, identify the fuses to each network module eg. ABS, Airbags, Heating, car audio etc. & pull them individually. If there is a module upsetting the network, depowering it should bring the car back to life.
Nine times out of ten, if you have a can bus fault or specific to BMW's a K Bus fault, it's either a broken wire or something faulty, interrupting traffic on the network, so don't overlook frayed or broken wires, especially in the engine bay.
I have an R53 that did this last year. The consistent issue was a k bus network fault. On these cars, all of the modules run off a handful of bus networks & they all go through the BCM in the footwell & the main computer unit in the speedo. Your dead battery may have kicked off something in the network. As an easy test, identify the fuses to each network module eg. ABS, Airbags, Heating, car audio etc. & pull them individually. If there is a module upsetting the network, depowering it should bring the car back to life.
Nine times out of ten, if you have a can bus fault or specific to BMW's a K Bus fault, it's either a broken wire or something faulty, interrupting traffic on the network, so don't overlook frayed or broken wires, especially in the engine bay.
President Merkin said:
You're saying it struggled to crank off a brand new battery? First thing I'd do is put a multimeter across the battery, rule out a dud, then check your earths. Is there anything aftermarket on the car? Stereo, Parrot etc. Multiple module warnings sound like can or k bus problems to me. What happens if you clear the codes, do they all come back instantly?
I have an R53 that did this last year. The consistent issue was a k bus network fault. On these cars, all of the modules run off a handful of bus networks & they all go through the BCM in the footwell & the main computer unit in the speedo. Your dead battery may have kicked off something in the network. As an easy test, identify the fuses to each network module eg. ABS, Airbags, Heating, car audio etc. & pull them individually. If there is a module upsetting the network, depowering it should bring the car back to life.
Nine times out of ten, if you have a can bus fault or specific to BMW's a K Bus fault, it's either a broken wire or something faulty, interrupting traffic on the network, so don't overlook frayed or broken wires, especially in the engine bay.
Battery on the 1st April was showing 12.57v. The car has a SmarTrack 5+ iMOB imobiliser/tracker fitted (was fitted 2nd Feb 2023, never had any issues with it).I have an R53 that did this last year. The consistent issue was a k bus network fault. On these cars, all of the modules run off a handful of bus networks & they all go through the BCM in the footwell & the main computer unit in the speedo. Your dead battery may have kicked off something in the network. As an easy test, identify the fuses to each network module eg. ABS, Airbags, Heating, car audio etc. & pull them individually. If there is a module upsetting the network, depowering it should bring the car back to life.
Nine times out of ten, if you have a can bus fault or specific to BMW's a K Bus fault, it's either a broken wire or something faulty, interrupting traffic on the network, so don't overlook frayed or broken wires, especially in the engine bay.
The FRM and JBE were hand delivered to ECU Testing Ltd in Heanor last Tuesday morning and despite chasing for updates I'm still no where near getting them back. They said the JBE is unique, never seen before item (anyone would think it's off a one off hypercar, not a MINI) so they've got to research and develop tests and testing equipment. The FRM, I was promised an update on Thursday afternoon. No update. Told Friday morning it was in for final testing and I'd get an update on Friday afternoon. No update. This afternoon I've been told it needs more advanced testing based on the fault information I provided. Both items have no timescale for return.
Really
off at the moment, because I was meant to be taking this car to Germany last Sunday.Oh dear. Your best bet is to get a decent auto electrician on it. The ECU blowing up was never very likely & I still feel your fault lies in either a faulty module upsetting the car or one of the bus networks. Either will be traceable by a good sparks.
Edited by President Merkin on Thursday 11th April 08:40
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