2010 Cooper - vanos error code
Discussion
My lodger has got a 2010 Cooper, petrol engine. Done 50k miles.
3 weeks ago the check engine light came on as soon as she started the car to come home from work. The car drove OK, just a bit down on power. I plugged in my code reader - 2845 exhaust vanos actuation.
I cleared the code, engine light went off, car was fine for 3 weeks.
Yesterday it happened again, same code. This time I didn't clear it, and she has spoken to a couple of garages to get a price, thinking it would just be a relatively cheap vanos solenoid replacement.
She said that there are no nasty noises, just the tickover is fluctuating a bit which makes pulling away smoothly tricky. Bearing in mind I didn't clear the code this time, incase the garage wanted to read the code themselves.
Garages are saying "it won't just be the solenoid, probably needs a new vanos hub and possibly a timing chain/tensioner replacement".
Is that likely to be the case, or are they covering themselves or taking the mick?
3 weeks ago the check engine light came on as soon as she started the car to come home from work. The car drove OK, just a bit down on power. I plugged in my code reader - 2845 exhaust vanos actuation.
I cleared the code, engine light went off, car was fine for 3 weeks.
Yesterday it happened again, same code. This time I didn't clear it, and she has spoken to a couple of garages to get a price, thinking it would just be a relatively cheap vanos solenoid replacement.
She said that there are no nasty noises, just the tickover is fluctuating a bit which makes pulling away smoothly tricky. Bearing in mind I didn't clear the code this time, incase the garage wanted to read the code themselves.
Garages are saying "it won't just be the solenoid, probably needs a new vanos hub and possibly a timing chain/tensioner replacement".
Is that likely to be the case, or are they covering themselves or taking the mick?
possibly, they can't see inside stuff and will be aware of the issues potentially in related system components so won't be keen to quote anything usually
it's worth simply removing and checking the solenoid and clearing the filter screen in the first instance, they clog up sometimes, or replacing it if inclined, although the solenoids are the same inlet and exhaust, so could also be swapped to see if the code moves, they can also be moved manually if careful, using a pick to help slide the plunger to see if stuck etc, and washed out before re-trying perhaps
likewise it's also worth sometimes checking the cam timing, if it's out imo there's little point in looking elsewhere in the hope of finding another component issue
it's worth simply removing and checking the solenoid and clearing the filter screen in the first instance, they clog up sometimes, or replacing it if inclined, although the solenoids are the same inlet and exhaust, so could also be swapped to see if the code moves, they can also be moved manually if careful, using a pick to help slide the plunger to see if stuck etc, and washed out before re-trying perhaps
likewise it's also worth sometimes checking the cam timing, if it's out imo there's little point in looking elsewhere in the hope of finding another component issue
Update:
Car went back under warranty, dealer said it was because the oil level was low. They topped it up, and said to check it every week.
We did this, never saw any change on the dipstick. Code and EML came back.
Went back in again on Tuesday. Dealer phoned yesterday, saying the car was chucking out smoke when driven, "needs a new engine". They offered to buy the car back, less 20p a mile. Accepted the offer.
Car went back under warranty, dealer said it was because the oil level was low. They topped it up, and said to check it every week.
We did this, never saw any change on the dipstick. Code and EML came back.
Went back in again on Tuesday. Dealer phoned yesterday, saying the car was chucking out smoke when driven, "needs a new engine". They offered to buy the car back, less 20p a mile. Accepted the offer.
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