TPWS Fault - 2014 Mini Cooper
Discussion
My daughter's Mini Cooper has developed an intermittent fault on the tyre pressure warning system. It sometimes (say, once a week), throws an error on the dash. To be clear, it is the warning system - not a problem with the tyre pressure (the wheels are fine).
A few questions:
A few questions:
- Is this a known problem?
- If, so, is it an easy fix?
- If so, easy enough for an orangutan with a screwdriver and a hammer (i.e. me) to sort (e.g. replace a pulg-and-play module)?
Can't you just replace the batteries? I am non the wiser on why the old system was replaced. No expensive sensors in the wheels but low pressure was still detected - although resetting was a bit of a palavar.
You could always bypass the system by inserting a switch to the dashboard LED like some Yank on Youtube. I might do it on my wifes Mini as she has runflats anyway and I check pressures every so often. The switch allows you to turn the LED back on when you get around to replacing the TPMS.
Pip
You could always bypass the system by inserting a switch to the dashboard LED like some Yank on Youtube. I might do it on my wifes Mini as she has runflats anyway and I check pressures every so often. The switch allows you to turn the LED back on when you get around to replacing the TPMS.
Pip
Pip1968 said:
You could always bypass the system by inserting a switch to the dashboard LED like some Yank on Youtube.
I might do it on my wifes Mini as she has runflats anyway and I check pressures every so often.
You do know that "runflats" can't be driven on when flat, don't you?I might do it on my wifes Mini as she has runflats anyway and I check pressures every so often.
And that they also need to be inflated correctly?
Hence why there is a TPMS system on cars.
Just because some random "septic tank" on youtube shows it is possible doesn't mean it is a good idea!
That is new one on me. So they are called 'runflat' for what reason???
[i]What are runflat tyres, and how do they work?
Run flats tyres have specially reinforced sidewalls that mean – even when you have a puncture – you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles).
There are three main advantages to having run flat tyres, the first two of which are to do with safety:
The strengthened sidewall helps keep your car under control in the event of a puncture;
You don’t have to change the wheel at the side of the road (one of the most dangerous situations you can put yourself in);
The big difference with run flats is that they feature a reinforced sidewall construction which continues to support your car even if you have a puncture. It’s this super-tough construction that allows you to keep driving, safely.[/i]
I would ask you what you did before automatic headlights, automatic wipers and before TPMS??
TPMS doesn't tell you when you don't have at least 1.6mm tread on your tyres or when the shoulders are worn or when the tyre is getting old, cracked or has bulges in the sidewall.
A bit like DSC /traction control will not always save you when there is a loss of adhesion.
Pip
[i]What are runflat tyres, and how do they work?
Run flats tyres have specially reinforced sidewalls that mean – even when you have a puncture – you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles).
There are three main advantages to having run flat tyres, the first two of which are to do with safety:
The strengthened sidewall helps keep your car under control in the event of a puncture;
You don’t have to change the wheel at the side of the road (one of the most dangerous situations you can put yourself in);
The big difference with run flats is that they feature a reinforced sidewall construction which continues to support your car even if you have a puncture. It’s this super-tough construction that allows you to keep driving, safely.[/i]
I would ask you what you did before automatic headlights, automatic wipers and before TPMS??
TPMS doesn't tell you when you don't have at least 1.6mm tread on your tyres or when the shoulders are worn or when the tyre is getting old, cracked or has bulges in the sidewall.
A bit like DSC /traction control will not always save you when there is a loss of adhesion.
Pip
You seem to have missed my point or it wasn't clear, so I will be a bit more precise.
Runflat tyres are designed (as per your clip) to mean that in a sudden deflation means no significant loss of control, they are not designed to be driven on while deflated, just to allow you to leave the road at a safe point to get the tyre replaced.
This is why VERY few places will fix a puncture as if they have been driven on there may well be hidden carcass damage.
The TPMS system is to alert you that (while the tyres may look normally inflated) they have lost pressure.
Runflat tyres are designed (as per your clip) to mean that in a sudden deflation means no significant loss of control, they are not designed to be driven on while deflated, just to allow you to leave the road at a safe point to get the tyre replaced.
This is why VERY few places will fix a puncture as if they have been driven on there may well be hidden carcass damage.
The TPMS system is to alert you that (while the tyres may look normally inflated) they have lost pressure.
Edited by E-bmw on Monday 22 August 17:16
Pip1968 said:
That is new one on me. So they are called 'runflat' for what reason???
[i]What are runflat tyres, and how do they work?
Run flats tyres have specially reinforced sidewalls that mean – even when you have a puncture – you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles).
There are three main advantages to having run flat tyres, the first two of which are to do with safety:
The strengthened sidewall helps keep your car under control in the event of a puncture;
You don’t have to change the wheel at the side of the road (one of the most dangerous situations you can put yourself in);
The big difference with run flats is that they feature a reinforced sidewall construction which continues to support your car even if you have a puncture. It’s this super-tough construction that allows you to keep driving, safely.[/i]
[i]What are runflat tyres, and how do they work?
Run flats tyres have specially reinforced sidewalls that mean – even when you have a puncture – you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles).
There are three main advantages to having run flat tyres, the first two of which are to do with safety:
The strengthened sidewall helps keep your car under control in the event of a puncture;
You don’t have to change the wheel at the side of the road (one of the most dangerous situations you can put yourself in);
The big difference with run flats is that they feature a reinforced sidewall construction which continues to support your car even if you have a puncture. It’s this super-tough construction that allows you to keep driving, safely.[/i]
Pip1968 said:
I would ask you what you did before automatic headlights, automatic wipers and before TPMS??
Not quite sure what you are getting at, mine are all used manually, and I don't have TPMS (or have never set it/reset it/heard or seen an alarm for it) and don't have runflats, but do have a full sized spare.Pip1968 said:
TPMS doesn't tell you when you don't have at least 1.6mm tread on your tyres or when the shoulders are worn or when the tyre is getting old, cracked or has bulges in the sidewall.
Obviously.Pip1968 said:
A bit like DSC /traction control will not always save you when there is a loss of adhesion.
Also obviously, still unsure of your point.My point is firstly "you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles). You said quite clearly that you cannot drive on runflats. I dispute your spurious claim. It was nonsense.
My second point is my way of saying just because you turn off some or one of these 'safety' mechanisms you create your own destiny and tech is no guarantee of protection. In other words you should check you tyres whether you have TPMS on or not and whether you have it on your car or not. All these safety mechanisms lure people into a false safety net of laziness. Often when these fail they are lost in a world of 'insecurity' and are unable to go back to basics because it is all they have known.
For me it is unneccesary are expensive nonsense. Cars have far too many 'helpful' electronics that turn drivers into morons and cost the earth to fix. Don't even start me on auto high beams - blind the oncoming car and then switch themselves off..... brilliant.
Pip
My second point is my way of saying just because you turn off some or one of these 'safety' mechanisms you create your own destiny and tech is no guarantee of protection. In other words you should check you tyres whether you have TPMS on or not and whether you have it on your car or not. All these safety mechanisms lure people into a false safety net of laziness. Often when these fail they are lost in a world of 'insecurity' and are unable to go back to basics because it is all they have known.
For me it is unneccesary are expensive nonsense. Cars have far too many 'helpful' electronics that turn drivers into morons and cost the earth to fix. Don't even start me on auto high beams - blind the oncoming car and then switch themselves off..... brilliant.
Pip
Pip1968 said:
My point is firstly "you can continue driving on them at a limited speed and for a limited period (a maximum speed of 50 mph for a maximum of 50 miles). You said quite clearly that you cannot drive on runflats. I dispute your spurious claim. It was nonsense.
OK, I get what you say, but it isn't nonsense, they are designed to get you to a place of safety to get the tyre changed while still driving under control. Not to continue driving on. The manufacturers have quantified a maximum. "Continue driving on them" to many will (and has) meant that they can just continue on their way. That is not the case, that is not what they are designed to do. Unless you basically slow right down & stop at your first opportunity the tyre will be junk no matter how easy a repair the tyre might have been.Pip1968 said:
My second point is my way of saying just because you turn off some or one of these 'safety' mechanisms you create your own destiny and tech is no guarantee of protection. In other words you should check you tyres whether you have TPMS on or not and whether you have it on your car or not. All these safety mechanisms lure people into a false safety net of laziness. Often when these fail they are lost in a world of 'insecurity' and are unable to go back to basics because it is all they have known.
Quite right, there are so many out there that think modern cars are so "smart" that if the app (car) doesn't tell you about an issue, there aren't any. The oil warning light isn't the trigger to add oil.Pip1968 said:
For me it is unneccesary are expensive nonsense. Cars have far too many 'helpful' electronics that turn drivers into morons and cost the earth to fix. Don't even start me on auto high beams - blind the oncoming car and then switch themselves off..... brilliant.
Pip
I am a firm believer (clearly like you) that auto-stuff on cars is completely unnecessary & actually quite unhelpful.Pip
They do turn people into unthinking drones, the art of driving a car should be revered & lamented when you have managed to attain the right to do it, not driven (sic) down to the lowest common denominator.
Road junctions shouldn't be made idiot proof, idiots shouldn't be driving on the roads.
Anyway, as above, enough of going off-track from the OP's question, my apologies, spleen vented.
Not sure on the later minis, but the gen 1 bini used the wheel sensors to check the rolling radius & therefore the pressures.
You have said there isn't an issue with the pressures but how have you checked them?
I ask because if you check them in bar 0.1 bar is 1.5 psi & could that be enough to set it off?
It is always best to set them in psi as the gauge/digital display will go to at least 0.5 psi, but will likely only go to 0.1 bar, which is 1.5 psi & I don't know what error these will alarm at.
Best to set all correct, reset the system and then see what happens, if the alarm goes off check again, at least then you will know if it is the system or an over sensitive/faulty system.
You have said there isn't an issue with the pressures but how have you checked them?
I ask because if you check them in bar 0.1 bar is 1.5 psi & could that be enough to set it off?
It is always best to set them in psi as the gauge/digital display will go to at least 0.5 psi, but will likely only go to 0.1 bar, which is 1.5 psi & I don't know what error these will alarm at.
Best to set all correct, reset the system and then see what happens, if the alarm goes off check again, at least then you will know if it is the system or an over sensitive/faulty system.
E-bmw said:
Not sure on the later minis, but the gen 1 bini used the wheel sensors to check the rolling radius & therefore the pressures.
You have said there isn't an issue with the pressures but how have you checked them?
I ask because if you check them in bar 0.1 bar is 1.5 psi & could that be enough to set it off?
It is always best to set them in psi as the gauge/digital display will go to at least 0.5 psi, but will likely only go to 0.1 bar, which is 1.5 psi & I don't know what error these will alarm at.
Best to set all correct, reset the system and then see what happens, if the alarm goes off check again, at least then you will know if it is the system or an over sensitive/faulty system.
The tyres have been checked (in reverse order) on my home pressure gauge, on a garage forecourt gauge and when the tyres were replaced about 200 miles ago. The warnings have been going for about 1,000 miles. The pressures are fine.You have said there isn't an issue with the pressures but how have you checked them?
I ask because if you check them in bar 0.1 bar is 1.5 psi & could that be enough to set it off?
It is always best to set them in psi as the gauge/digital display will go to at least 0.5 psi, but will likely only go to 0.1 bar, which is 1.5 psi & I don't know what error these will alarm at.
Best to set all correct, reset the system and then see what happens, if the alarm goes off check again, at least then you will know if it is the system or an over sensitive/faulty system.
The error message is not that there is a tyre with pressure but rather that there is a tyre pressure warning system fault.
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