2002 Mini Cooper S, 33,000 miles and no service history.
Discussion
Hello, I am a newbie here. So apologies, beforehand, if I get anything wrong.
I just bought a reasonably cheap 2002 Mini Cooper S with very low mileage for its age. It has 33,000 legit miles. The bad news is, the service log book shows the last time it was serviced was in 2005!, by service I mean complete service by Mini: Oil, Plugs, Coolant, etc There are no more stamps from 2005. It's really a 1 owner car. The guy I bought the car off bought it off his son, and his son was sold the car cheaply by their neighbour (in 2020) -- the neighbour bought the car from new. The potential problems are whirring around in my head. And I've done a few tests and checked out as best I can to see what state the engine is in.
1. Coolant is cloudy white colour, looks like watered down coolant -- does have minor coolant properties when tested. No traces of oil in coolant.
2. Oil was low on the dipstick when I went to see the car. It does have the usual leaks in common places: valve cover, crankshaft sensor gasket, dipstick seal. There's no oil drips on the drive. The patches of oil that were there I have cleaned up and they've not returned, although not really driven it much. There is no 'mayo' looking oil under oil filler cap & none that I can see in rocker cover.
3. Have done a compression tests:
Dry -- cyl 1 = 160psi 2 = 160 psi 3 = 165 psi 4 = 155 psi
Wet -- cyl 1 = 210 psi 2 = 200 psi 3 = 200psi 4 = 195 psi
4. Done sniff tests with a couple of kits, as the results are inconclusive. Sometimes the liquid changes to a greeny/blue. Other times it doesn't, it remains blue. I noticed when I rev the engine with the coolant cap off the condensation dribbles from the top of the coolant tank, so when I draw the vapor into the tester I'm wondering if droplets of coolant are being drawn and fouling the test? I've made sure the coolant is very low. There are no big bubbles or frothing in the coolant tank. Not when I rev the engine as well. There is maybe a tiny bubble every 3 or 4 seconds.
5. Spark plugs look alright. 2 looked golden colour (3 and 4) and 1 & 2 looked a little bit darker. But not oily. 1 & 2 definitely do not look clean.
-- Because the sniff tests are not really conclusive I wondered if I should get a garage to do a leak down test?
-- I've ordered a new water pump, thermostat and housing, sump gasket, dipstick gasket, crankshaft sensor seal, oil filter housing seal, new aux belt and puller, Oil and filter, coolant ... is there anything else I should look at to renew?
-- Should I do the timing chain? on 33k would it be alright?
Right now, I can't think of anything else
Any help is appreciated. Mark
I just bought a reasonably cheap 2002 Mini Cooper S with very low mileage for its age. It has 33,000 legit miles. The bad news is, the service log book shows the last time it was serviced was in 2005!, by service I mean complete service by Mini: Oil, Plugs, Coolant, etc There are no more stamps from 2005. It's really a 1 owner car. The guy I bought the car off bought it off his son, and his son was sold the car cheaply by their neighbour (in 2020) -- the neighbour bought the car from new. The potential problems are whirring around in my head. And I've done a few tests and checked out as best I can to see what state the engine is in.
1. Coolant is cloudy white colour, looks like watered down coolant -- does have minor coolant properties when tested. No traces of oil in coolant.
2. Oil was low on the dipstick when I went to see the car. It does have the usual leaks in common places: valve cover, crankshaft sensor gasket, dipstick seal. There's no oil drips on the drive. The patches of oil that were there I have cleaned up and they've not returned, although not really driven it much. There is no 'mayo' looking oil under oil filler cap & none that I can see in rocker cover.
3. Have done a compression tests:
Dry -- cyl 1 = 160psi 2 = 160 psi 3 = 165 psi 4 = 155 psi
Wet -- cyl 1 = 210 psi 2 = 200 psi 3 = 200psi 4 = 195 psi
4. Done sniff tests with a couple of kits, as the results are inconclusive. Sometimes the liquid changes to a greeny/blue. Other times it doesn't, it remains blue. I noticed when I rev the engine with the coolant cap off the condensation dribbles from the top of the coolant tank, so when I draw the vapor into the tester I'm wondering if droplets of coolant are being drawn and fouling the test? I've made sure the coolant is very low. There are no big bubbles or frothing in the coolant tank. Not when I rev the engine as well. There is maybe a tiny bubble every 3 or 4 seconds.
5. Spark plugs look alright. 2 looked golden colour (3 and 4) and 1 & 2 looked a little bit darker. But not oily. 1 & 2 definitely do not look clean.
-- Because the sniff tests are not really conclusive I wondered if I should get a garage to do a leak down test?
-- I've ordered a new water pump, thermostat and housing, sump gasket, dipstick gasket, crankshaft sensor seal, oil filter housing seal, new aux belt and puller, Oil and filter, coolant ... is there anything else I should look at to renew?
-- Should I do the timing chain? on 33k would it be alright?
Right now, I can't think of anything else
Any help is appreciated. Mark
^^^^ Wot 'e says.
Also.
It sounds like you have most things covered but one.
When you have the front end in "maintenance mode" you really will regret it if you don't do the supercharger service at the same time.
I know some call it a "100,000 service item" but there is no such thing.
BMW say it isn't a service item Eaton say it is, and should be under 100,000, but I can't remember what mileage.
If you have to remove everything again later to do what is only another hour job while you are there it would be daft, and they can lose oil level in well under 100,000 miles.
Also.
It sounds like you have most things covered but one.
When you have the front end in "maintenance mode" you really will regret it if you don't do the supercharger service at the same time.
I know some call it a "100,000 service item" but there is no such thing.
BMW say it isn't a service item Eaton say it is, and should be under 100,000, but I can't remember what mileage.
If you have to remove everything again later to do what is only another hour job while you are there it would be daft, and they can lose oil level in well under 100,000 miles.
Hi, thanks for the replies and31 & E-Bmw. I think I'm going to drive the car some more before I think about changing timing chain. I was definitely going to check the oil inside the supercharger. I've watched quite a lot of cooper s supercharger youtubes and almost every clip there is little or no oil left in them.
I'm still undecided about my head gasket. But I figure to drive the car a lot more and see what problems come along. Everything looks decent enough, it's just the sniff test that is showing a problem. Probably a small problem, right now.
thanks.
I'm still undecided about my head gasket. But I figure to drive the car a lot more and see what problems come along. Everything looks decent enough, it's just the sniff test that is showing a problem. Probably a small problem, right now.
thanks.
I took the car apart today and got the supercharger off. The 'coolant' looked like a bunch of cold tea. It's literally the colour of tea. It's not thick and sludgy, it stinks like coolant. There was a small amount of slimy looking stuff in the bottom of the rad but a minimal amount. I am draining the oil later and I'll see what state that's in. I guess if that has any similar colour sludge the HG has to be sorted. I'm just hoping this is some crappy 15year old coolant that's never been changed.
I took the sump off today and changed the gasket. Surprisingly the sump wasn't that bad inside, I say surprisingly because the oil was jet black. When I undid the sump plug a thick clot of black crud oil just dangled down. So I was expecting some horrors inside.There's no mayo looking crap in there.
Tomorrow I'm going to drain the Superchargers oil. It's going to be interesting to see how much is left in a 33k car that has not been thrashed.
Tomorrow I'm going to drain the Superchargers oil. It's going to be interesting to see how much is left in a 33k car that has not been thrashed.
Out of interest, why are you so concerned about the head gasket? They are very solid in that department. Your compression test results look great. And at 33k miles forget worrying about the chain and guides. Chain tensioner, maybe, as a precaution. Drain the coolant, flush it and put the correct stuff in.
And defo invest in an Ultragauge. I keep it simple - these 4 vitals.
And defo invest in an Ultragauge. I keep it simple - these 4 vitals.
R53rider said:
Out of interest, why are you so concerned about the head gasket? They are very solid in that department. Your compression test results look great. And at 33k miles forget worrying about the chain and guides. Chain tensioner, maybe, as a precaution. Drain the coolant, flush it and put the correct stuff in.
And defo invest in an Ultragauge. I keep it simple - these 4 vitals.
Hi, I was worried about the head gasket because the radiator fan wasn't running, or so I thought. It is just the AC slow speed setting that doesn't work, the radiator fan does come on about 107, and the fastest speed at 113. Also the power steering fan isn't working, I have found out both fans (AC slow speed & Power steering fan) are connected to the same circuit -- neither will work if resistor's/fuses have failed. I've got the car booked in with a garage to be fixed as I am not any good with electrics. The coolant looked like dog crap. Literally, it was brown and white/cloudy and I just presumed with the fan appearing not to work that it might have blown a HG. The car doesn't appear to have been well maintained by the car's original one owner (last documented service was in 2005).And defo invest in an Ultragauge. I keep it simple - these 4 vitals.
Anyway, I've done quite a lot to the car. I dropped the sump, to my surprise it was not sludgy, the oil was jet black and smelled terrible so I was expecting clumps of oil. But it was clean. Fitted new sump gasket. Had a go at fitting the oil filter housing gasket but I couldn't see more than one nut on the frigging thing to undo. Took the supercharger off, changed the oil, there was a lot in both ends, I'd say they were pretty much full. Only 33k miles so that was obvious. Fitted new water-pump while I had the chance. New thermostat and housing. BTW the o-rings were flattened and near useless on water pump/block and thermostat, so was needed. I fitted new rocker cover gasket.
I've never worked on a MINI before and I was surprised at the small amount of tools needed for these jobs. You definitely need good hose clamps & long nose pliers. I think the hardest thing was figuring out how to get the supercharger snout boots correctly clamped down. My first effort had left an air gap and the engine was revving quite high at idle. Then after about a minute exhaust started blowing smoke and it was red hot. I touched the exhaust and burned my finger tips. It was literally red hot in under about a minute and half.
I've got a couple of jobs to fix before it's my daily driver for work. I've got a code p1109 when I scan the car (error nothing showing on dash). Googling says this is the TMAP sensor. I bought one, still not fixed. I am guessing there is also a MAP sensor, maybe it's this. I noticed when I lay off the throttle and give it some the car feels kinda boggy. (P1109 Manifold Air Pressure too High in Deceleration). The o-ring on my original TMAP sensor was shot so I'm gonna keep this new one. I guess I need to try the MAP sensor now.
Does anyone know if you can fit an emergency boot release to these? My 2002 doesn't have the release under the back seat. I had to remove the rear shelf and reach down to the battery and reconnect it. I disconnected the battery and didn't realise I was unable to open the boot again to reconnect it. I read somewhere you can jumper the electrics for the boot mechanism using the battery terminal under the bonnet using a battery charger, but it didn't work.
I'm defo gonna have the chain tensioner checked and make sure it's all good. And that Ultragauge looks like something I am gonna get. Thanks.
Another thing, I tried bleeding the brakes. They're kinda spongy. They stop, but feels like too much pedal travel. So I used a Sealey bleeder and hardly any fluid is coming out of all 4 nipples. I am only pumping to 20psi (recommended). But after an initial amount of fluid releasing it stops -- same on all 4 corners. I am guessing I have trapped air or a small leak in the system.
mini_meltdown said:
Hi, I was worried about the head gasket because the radiator fan wasn't running, or so I thought. It is just the AC slow speed setting that doesn't work, the radiator fan does come on about 107, and the fastest speed at 113. Also the power steering fan isn't working, I have found out both fans (AC slow speed & Power steering fan) are connected to the same circuit -- neither will work if resistor's/fuses have failed. I've got the car booked in with a garage to be fixed as I am not any good with electrics. The coolant looked like dog crap. Literally, it was brown and white/cloudy and I just presumed with the fan appearing not to work that it might have blown a HG. The car doesn't appear to have been well maintained by the car's original one owner (last documented service was in 2005).
Anyway, I've done quite a lot to the car. I dropped the sump, to my surprise it was not sludgy, the oil was jet black and smelled terrible so I was expecting clumps of oil. But it was clean. Fitted new sump gasket. Had a go at fitting the oil filter housing gasket but I couldn't see more than one nut on the frigging thing to undo. Took the supercharger off, changed the oil, there was a lot in both ends, I'd say they were pretty much full. Only 33k miles so that was obvious. Fitted new water-pump while I had the chance. New thermostat and housing. BTW the o-rings were flattened and near useless on water pump/block and thermostat, so was needed. I fitted new rocker cover gasket.
I've never worked on a MINI before and I was surprised at the small amount of tools needed for these jobs. You definitely need good hose clamps & long nose pliers. I think the hardest thing was figuring out how to get the supercharger snout boots correctly clamped down. My first effort had left an air gap and the engine was revving quite high at idle. Then after about a minute exhaust started blowing smoke and it was red hot. I touched the exhaust and burned my finger tips. It was literally red hot in under about a minute and half.
I've got a couple of jobs to fix before it's my daily driver for work. I've got a code p1109 when I scan the car (error nothing showing on dash). Googling says this is the TMAP sensor. I bought one, still not fixed. I am guessing there is also a MAP sensor, maybe it's this. I noticed when I lay off the throttle and give it some the car feels kinda boggy. (P1109 Manifold Air Pressure too High in Deceleration). The o-ring on my original TMAP sensor was shot so I'm gonna keep this new one. I guess I need to try the MAP sensor now.
Does anyone know if you can fit an emergency boot release to these? My 2002 doesn't have the release under the back seat. I had to remove the rear shelf and reach down to the battery and reconnect it. I disconnected the battery and didn't realise I was unable to open the boot again to reconnect it. I read somewhere you can jumper the electrics for the boot mechanism using the battery terminal under the bonnet using a battery charger, but it didn't work.
I'm defo gonna have the chain tensioner checked and make sure it's all good. And that Ultragauge looks like something I am gonna get. Thanks.
Sounds like you've got an air leak somewhere still, snoot boots (intercooler rubber connectors) are normally the most common point followed by the s/c pipe seal and broken t/map pipes.Anyway, I've done quite a lot to the car. I dropped the sump, to my surprise it was not sludgy, the oil was jet black and smelled terrible so I was expecting clumps of oil. But it was clean. Fitted new sump gasket. Had a go at fitting the oil filter housing gasket but I couldn't see more than one nut on the frigging thing to undo. Took the supercharger off, changed the oil, there was a lot in both ends, I'd say they were pretty much full. Only 33k miles so that was obvious. Fitted new water-pump while I had the chance. New thermostat and housing. BTW the o-rings were flattened and near useless on water pump/block and thermostat, so was needed. I fitted new rocker cover gasket.
I've never worked on a MINI before and I was surprised at the small amount of tools needed for these jobs. You definitely need good hose clamps & long nose pliers. I think the hardest thing was figuring out how to get the supercharger snout boots correctly clamped down. My first effort had left an air gap and the engine was revving quite high at idle. Then after about a minute exhaust started blowing smoke and it was red hot. I touched the exhaust and burned my finger tips. It was literally red hot in under about a minute and half.
I've got a couple of jobs to fix before it's my daily driver for work. I've got a code p1109 when I scan the car (error nothing showing on dash). Googling says this is the TMAP sensor. I bought one, still not fixed. I am guessing there is also a MAP sensor, maybe it's this. I noticed when I lay off the throttle and give it some the car feels kinda boggy. (P1109 Manifold Air Pressure too High in Deceleration). The o-ring on my original TMAP sensor was shot so I'm gonna keep this new one. I guess I need to try the MAP sensor now.
Does anyone know if you can fit an emergency boot release to these? My 2002 doesn't have the release under the back seat. I had to remove the rear shelf and reach down to the battery and reconnect it. I disconnected the battery and didn't realise I was unable to open the boot again to reconnect it. I read somewhere you can jumper the electrics for the boot mechanism using the battery terminal under the bonnet using a battery charger, but it didn't work.
I'm defo gonna have the chain tensioner checked and make sure it's all good. And that Ultragauge looks like something I am gonna get. Thanks.
Take the hoses off of the oil cooler on the filter housing an make sure thats not clogged up with s
t and flush it out too. The coolants probably never been changed and the metal coolant pipes rust internally causing the stty rust particals to get dumped in the oil cooler and heater matrix which eventually block up.Theres a mega fuse for the PS pump in I think the underbonnet fuse box might be worth checking that.
The boot releases where fit after 2003 I think.
Brakes are a common first upgrade with people switching to the later R56 cooper s calipers and braided conversion hoses, standards are pretty crap.
Edited by The test driver on Friday 10th September 12:51
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