MYSTERIOUS Mini coolant leak.
Discussion
The car : a 2001 100k Cooper.
The history: bought in 2013 with 63k on clock
Now owned by daughter.
Who lives 30 mins away.
Recent costs involved a clutch and then 3 months later a reckon box.
I helped with the costs because it's only money and better the devil you know.
Probably should have advised her to buy a new car on easy credit. (Sarcasm).
Anyway the firm that replaced the gearbox said " There was coolant on top of the old box"
Dsugher did Liverpool.to Bristol and back last week end and had to top the coolant up. It had gone from max to min in about 200 miles.
I had a quick look the other evening as she'd popped in for tea (like Dinner but northern)
Yes. Coolant on top of gearbox housing.
I've taken the air filter box and battery box off to look, run the engine until it's hot and can't see an actual leak.
It started going dark. I put it back together.
Promised I'd look again on Sunday when I have more time.
Anyone had this? Which pipe or hose should I look more closely at?
The history: bought in 2013 with 63k on clock
Now owned by daughter.
Who lives 30 mins away.
Recent costs involved a clutch and then 3 months later a reckon box.
I helped with the costs because it's only money and better the devil you know.
Probably should have advised her to buy a new car on easy credit. (Sarcasm).
Anyway the firm that replaced the gearbox said " There was coolant on top of the old box"
Dsugher did Liverpool.to Bristol and back last week end and had to top the coolant up. It had gone from max to min in about 200 miles.
I had a quick look the other evening as she'd popped in for tea (like Dinner but northern)
Yes. Coolant on top of gearbox housing.
I've taken the air filter box and battery box off to look, run the engine until it's hot and can't see an actual leak.
It started going dark. I put it back together.
Promised I'd look again on Sunday when I have more time.
Anyone had this? Which pipe or hose should I look more closely at?
I was given 5 mins on Sunday (because daughter's boyfriend needed to use it to get to work) to have another look.
I think I can see evidence of a leak from.the joint between housing and engine block.
I have been promised the car all day next Sunday. I have ordered parts.
Who is doing who a favour??
I think I can see evidence of a leak from.the joint between housing and engine block.
I have been promised the car all day next Sunday. I have ordered parts.
Who is doing who a favour??
sad61t said:
Hope you're paying her for the whole day indulging in your favorite hobby. 
I'm guessing you have kids? You know what they are like. My hidden agenda is that when she decides to buy a replacement, I intend to "inherit" it because I like it.
If it were possible to retrofit cruise control to it, I'd use it daily. If not just weekends instead of my 3.2 MV6 omega B
personally I have found that the northamericanmotoring forum has a really helpful mini section which might be worth a browse...
One area that has helped me is:
Use the onboard temperature reading by going into test mode on the speedo - instructions on web
Run the car up to temp, watch what happens - you should see the temp go up and them drop a few degrees when the thermostat opens and then it will continue to rise - at around 100 oC watch to see if the low speed fan is operating it is supposed to come on at around 105 oC
I noticed mine wasnt working and at around the same temperature the overflow bottle levels had risen and then the new cap on the new thermostat housing was allowing some fluid to leak out onto the gearbox housing.
I switched off and allowed to cool and yep lower fluid levels. I am assuming its the low speed fan issues as all fuses and relays seem ok and hot jumping fan works at high speed only - so the low speed fan fix outlined on the above forum is the next job.
One area that has helped me is:
Use the onboard temperature reading by going into test mode on the speedo - instructions on web
Run the car up to temp, watch what happens - you should see the temp go up and them drop a few degrees when the thermostat opens and then it will continue to rise - at around 100 oC watch to see if the low speed fan is operating it is supposed to come on at around 105 oC
I noticed mine wasnt working and at around the same temperature the overflow bottle levels had risen and then the new cap on the new thermostat housing was allowing some fluid to leak out onto the gearbox housing.
I switched off and allowed to cool and yep lower fluid levels. I am assuming its the low speed fan issues as all fuses and relays seem ok and hot jumping fan works at high speed only - so the low speed fan fix outlined on the above forum is the next job.
Edited by oilit on Sunday 7th April 19:22
by means of an update for anyone else - the resistor solution for the lack of low speed fan which caused overheating and coolant loss seems to have fixed my problems
not sure if i am allowed to do this but if not - mods please remove the link to the solution:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock...
not sure if i am allowed to do this but if not - mods please remove the link to the solution:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock...
oilit said:
personally I have found that the northamericanmotoring forum has a really helpful mini section which might be worth a browse...
One area that has helped me is:
Use the onboard temperature reading by going into test mode on the speedo - instructions on web
Run the car up to temp, watch what happens - you should see the temp go up and them drop a few degrees when the thermostat opens and then it will continue to rise - at around 100 oC watch to see if the low speed fan is operating it is supposed to come on at around 105 oC
I noticed mine wasnt working and at around the same temperature the overflow bottle levels had risen and then the new cap on the new thermostat housing was allowing some fluid to leak out onto the gearbox housing.
I switched off and allowed to cool and yep lower fluid levels. I am assuming its the low speed fan issues as all fuses and relays seem ok and hot jumping fan works at high speed only - so the low speed fan fix outlined on the above forum is the next job.
I swapped the housing, seal and thermostat on Sunday, because I thought I could see it leaking from the joint, but time will tell. One area that has helped me is:
Use the onboard temperature reading by going into test mode on the speedo - instructions on web
Run the car up to temp, watch what happens - you should see the temp go up and them drop a few degrees when the thermostat opens and then it will continue to rise - at around 100 oC watch to see if the low speed fan is operating it is supposed to come on at around 105 oC
I noticed mine wasnt working and at around the same temperature the overflow bottle levels had risen and then the new cap on the new thermostat housing was allowing some fluid to leak out onto the gearbox housing.
I switched off and allowed to cool and yep lower fluid levels. I am assuming its the low speed fan issues as all fuses and relays seem ok and hot jumping fan works at high speed only - so the low speed fan fix outlined on the above forum is the next job.
Edited by oilit on Sunday 7th April 19:22
The housing came with new cap, but I chose to use the old one, because it has markings on it.
Thinking about the temp reading thing. I think the code reader I bought ages ago to turn the airbag warning light off is fairly all signing and dancing and could tell.me all that. If I'd remembered to look.
If you don't know how to use the Hidden Codes you can watch the actual temp accurately. You don't need to use a code reader. The gauge is only a rough guide +/-25°C, so it will stay on the middle mark from about 65°C to 112°C. Useless to see what is going on.
Actual Temp like this:
Display Actual Coolant Temp
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand.
2. While holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “TEST”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1, 2, 10, 19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again.
5. You are now in the system.
6. Scroll through to 7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7. Start the engine and actual temp is displayed and you will see the temp fluctuation as the thermostat opens and closes.
The stat should be opening and closing at about 90°C. You will be able to watch the temps rise and fall a few degrees as this is happening.
High Speed Fan cuts in at about 110°C
Actual Temp like this:
Display Actual Coolant Temp
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand.
2. While holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “TEST”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1, 2, 10, 19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again.
5. You are now in the system.
6. Scroll through to 7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7. Start the engine and actual temp is displayed and you will see the temp fluctuation as the thermostat opens and closes.
The stat should be opening and closing at about 90°C. You will be able to watch the temps rise and fall a few degrees as this is happening.
High Speed Fan cuts in at about 110°C
Well, I'm getting Chinese whispers from daughter and her boyfriend. Apparently still loosing coolant.
Just spent 2 hours looking. Nothing.
I think that one of them brimmed it. And it spat that out when hot. And now it's cold it's sitting just above max.
I got it hot. Fan came on. Coolant had gone up about 4 cm.
Just spent 2 hours looking. Nothing.
I think that one of them brimmed it. And it spat that out when hot. And now it's cold it's sitting just above max.
I got it hot. Fan came on. Coolant had gone up about 4 cm.
Pit Pony said:
I think that one of them brimmed it. And it spat that out when hot. And now it's cold it's sitting just above max.
I got it hot. Fan came on. Coolant had gone up about 4 cm.
All of that makes sense & sounds 100% normal but the only way you will know is from first hand observation.I got it hot. Fan came on. Coolant had gone up about 4 cm.
It's had 4 hours to cool down, Coolant above where it started at 11am when Cold, but Below the mark I made when temp gauge was showing slap bang in the middle.
I think we probably don't have a coolant loss anymore. I think any changes since I fitted the new thermostat housing and seal, can be put down to air locks, and over filling.
Hopefully maybe.
In other news my OBD2 reader no longer talks to the fecking car. It'll talk to any other car, so I know it's not the reader. and the clock has stopped working.
I think we probably don't have a coolant loss anymore. I think any changes since I fitted the new thermostat housing and seal, can be put down to air locks, and over filling.
Hopefully maybe.
In other news my OBD2 reader no longer talks to the fecking car. It'll talk to any other car, so I know it's not the reader. and the clock has stopped working.
Pit Pony said:
It's had 4 hours to cool down, Coolant above where it started at 11am when Cold, but Below the mark I made when temp gauge was showing slap bang in the middle.
I think we probably don't have a coolant loss anymore. I think any changes since I fitted the new thermostat housing and seal, can be put down to air locks, and over filling.
Hopefully maybe.
In other news my OBD2 reader no longer talks to the fecking car. It'll talk to any other car, so I know it's not the reader. and the clock has stopped working.
There are three bleed valves - two in the pipes (one above alternator and one on way to heater matrix (to right of overflow bottle)), the third one is really hard to get to but is a bolt on the rhs end of the engine when standing at the front and it bolts into a metal tube which is just below the thermostat housing towards front corner of engine - hope that helps :-/I think we probably don't have a coolant loss anymore. I think any changes since I fitted the new thermostat housing and seal, can be put down to air locks, and over filling.
Hopefully maybe.
In other news my OBD2 reader no longer talks to the fecking car. It'll talk to any other car, so I know it's not the reader. and the clock has stopped working.
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