MINI R56 2007 NOT STARTING AFTER VALVE COVER REPLACEMENT

MINI R56 2007 NOT STARTING AFTER VALVE COVER REPLACEMENT

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Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Tuesday 12th March 2019
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Hi all,

My first post ever on here so go easy please!

So...I recently replaced a leaking valve cover on my Mini R56 Cooper S. Also changed the spark plugs. Started it up to test after doing so and made a sparking type noise. Turned the engine off and realised I hadn't attached the small ground wire coming from the coil pack wires to the front nut fastner! :-0

I attached it, checked everything else and went to restart the engine but no it is just turning over but not starting. The battery is low (because the car has been sat on my drive for a while whilst doing other things). I jump started and left running for a while and then tried to start the car whilst connected to my other car. Still just turned over but nothing.

I have a c110 BMW scanner and connected it and its giving me 2 codes. A0C1 Output Terminal 50, and A0B3 Starter Motor, Terminal 50.

I cant find much online about this. Could I really have fried my starter motor or could it could be just a fuse or relay and if so where do I find these?

If anyone could help I would be so grateful as i'm going crazy not knowing where to look next.

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Tuesday 12th March 2019
quotequote all
If it’s turning over then it’s not the starter motor

If it wasn’t sparking because you left the coil ground wire disconnected then you may have flooded the engine as the injectors would still be fuelling. Pull out the plugs and see if they are wet

Are you sure you connected everything? Cam sensors plugged in?
Did you trap the wires that run at the back of the cover under the air filter box?
Coil wiring plugged all the way in?


Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Wednesday 13th March 2019
quotequote all
Thanks for your reply.

I have checked everything like the cam sensor etc. They are all connected and working fine. Coil pack wires are in all the way and ground is tight.

I cant understand why it is throwing up A0B3 code which is starter motor - terminal 50 when like you said it cranking perfectly fine?

I had the coil packs out and but i haven't taken the spark plugs out to have a look at them. i will definitely do that later. They were brand new Iridium NGK Laser plugs. Like i said the engine did start but then made a sparking sound as the ground wire from the coil pack harness was just loose flapping about.

Worst thing is cant get anyone to have a look as it doesn't drive obviously!


E-bmw

9,859 posts

158 months

Wednesday 13th March 2019
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I assume you have checked that the multi-plug on the back of the coil is FULLY in?

Also that you plug leads are in the correct sequence?

Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Thursday 14th March 2019
quotequote all
E-BMW, do you mean the wiring harness into each coil pack?

I have just had the spark plugs out, and they are dry, so the engine is not flooded.

I have checked they are all tightned correctly, checked the coil packs are down tight and the ground wire is connect plus cam shaft sensor.

The code i am getting is A0B3 - Starter Motor Terminal 50. Dont understand though as the car is cranking fine so how can this be starter motor related?

Im literally stuck now. Tried everything. Wonder if have done something to th ecu as my code scanner cant connect to the dme only the cas.

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Friday 15th March 2019
quotequote all
I think u may have damaged the ecu or blown a fuse somewhere when the earth wire wasn’t connected.
The terminal 50 may be an indication that u have activated terminal 50 but no speed is being picked up by the crank sensor so the car is thinking the starter isn’t turning the engine over.

I’d check as many fuses as possible in the engine bay fuse box, check your connections to the ecu, and if you don’t find the problem you will have to get it recovered to a garage

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Friday 15th March 2019
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Check fuses 1-10 and check, with ignition on, that you are getting 12v feed into the fuse

Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Friday 15th March 2019
quotequote all
Thanks Elliot 2000.

I have checked fuses 1-10 and all ok. And wiring looks ok.

Excuse my ignorance but how do How do i check 12v is going to the fuse? Electronics is not my strong point!!


Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Friday 15th March 2019
quotequote all
I just looked up how to test online!

RIGHT SO ..... Elliot you were spot on but still not sure if this resolves anything!

Turned the ignition on and I tested the voltage going into the fuses and fuse box using a voltmeter. Im get 12v's (ish) at the connection to the box.

But here's where the problem is i think. Using the black wire on ground point of car and the red wire on top of each fuse in the box only Fuse 1,and 6-10 are getting 12v to them. Fuse 2-5 plus a couple of the relay's are only reading 0.23v instead of 12 something on the others. i have inspected these fuses and they arent blown visually - look fine. So it seems power is only going to certain parts of the board.

Where do i go now?!!


Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Friday 15th March 2019
quotequote all
Just occured to me if fuses 2 -5 should even have power running to them all the timwe with only the ignition on?!

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Friday 15th March 2019
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It should have a feed from the k6300 relay, which is fed from the fuse box that is near the battery, picture shows left hand drive btw, disconnect f67 and see if 12v is up to this point, if it is, check the relay, if it isn’t then the fuse inside that black box has blown

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Friday 15th March 2019
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Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Saturday 16th March 2019
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Thanks mate. Big help. I tried disconnecting f67 but so little slack on the unit i can't access it without removing so. Ive taken that little black fuse box out now but obviously now can't check if power is getting to this point. I might just replace it as fairly cheap then try relay k6300 after that if it doesnt work.
The terminals in the black box do look quite scorched to me (although i'm not sure if this is normal).

Ive attached a pic of the box. If this solves it i owe you a pint!!!!


Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Saturday 16th March 2019
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Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Saturday 16th March 2019
quotequote all
Last thing! Can see no way of opening this box so im guessing it's a sealed unit and i have to replace it as a whole, if the fuse has blown?

Elliot2000

785 posts

182 months

Saturday 16th March 2019
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There supposed to be a sealed unit, you can break them open though, if u have a multimeter stick it on to resistance and go from the threaded bolt to the f67 - if it’s open circuit u know it’s blown

Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Sunday 17th March 2019
quotequote all
I just carried out the test and annoyingly the box seems fine. I;m getting low resistance across f67 and the other outputs in the box so it all seems to be ok!

Is there any way i can test the relay K6300. Cant be the wiring to the other fuse box as im getting 12v into that?


Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Monday 18th March 2019
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Quick update : I have switched the k6300 relay for another one in the fuse box (Radiator fan) and it is still not starting so ive come to the point where i think im just going to sell the car! Taking too much time out of my full time job.Thanks Elliot anyway.

stevemcs

8,939 posts

99 months

Monday 18th March 2019
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Does this have the servo motor on the right hand side of the engine at the back and if so have you touched it ?

Wilko102

Original Poster:

15 posts

67 months

Monday 18th March 2019
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No i havent touched the servo motor