Mini R56 - Which one to modify
Discussion
I am thinking of buying and modifying a Mini R56 for a daily and the odd track day.
Models in my price range:
R56 Mini Cooper S (N14)
R56 Mini Cooper S (N18)
R56 Mini JCW (N14)
Over time, I am planning on tuning the engine to around 245 BHP with relevant supporting modifications.
So which is best balancing purchase cost, reliability and modification costs?
Models in my price range:
R56 Mini Cooper S (N14)
R56 Mini Cooper S (N18)
R56 Mini JCW (N14)
Over time, I am planning on tuning the engine to around 245 BHP with relevant supporting modifications.
So which is best balancing purchase cost, reliability and modification costs?
I can't comment on the N14 vs N18 question though I can say that finding a "true" JCW R56 is not as easy as a Cooper S (although there are a lot of JCW body kit Cooper S cars out there) as they just didn't make as many with the full kit on them. I've had a number of friends with tuned N14 engine cars and they've not experienced the engine failures that are reported on the forums.
From what I read before I bought mine, the engine issues with timing chains are mainly due to people not frequently checking the oil on the cars and this leads to the chains stretching. High Pressure Fuel Pumps can fail at any time sadly (mine did about 4 months after I bought the car) and its critical to find a well maintained/sympathetically owned car, especially if it's already been tuned (btw, 245 bhp is a Stage 2 tune for many tuners). The engines do "coke" up as well and again preventative decoking (walnut blasting) is the most appropriate method and to also run the higher octane fuel in them.
I'd also treat some of what you read on the Mini related forums with a pinch of salt as some of the tuned cars were probably not that well maintained before they were tuned, and in some instances the Stage 2 or 3 maps just stretched the engines to the point of throwing a piston (there isn't a tuner that probably hasn't had at least one customer car fail after remapping for the stage 2 maps, especially those that might have the well known "barbecue" mode and I'm sure they clearly all state that re-mapping can reduce the engine "life" and they are not held responsible for previous poor maintenance). If you are going to own a Stage 2 tuned car, I'd recommend you get the oil changed a lot more frequently than the manufacturer recommends, using an uprated oil and also allow the car to fully warm up/cool down if using it in a spirited fashion.
If you are intending on buying a stock car to modify from scratch, PM me and I'll share with you what it cost to do the performance mods on mine.
From what I read before I bought mine, the engine issues with timing chains are mainly due to people not frequently checking the oil on the cars and this leads to the chains stretching. High Pressure Fuel Pumps can fail at any time sadly (mine did about 4 months after I bought the car) and its critical to find a well maintained/sympathetically owned car, especially if it's already been tuned (btw, 245 bhp is a Stage 2 tune for many tuners). The engines do "coke" up as well and again preventative decoking (walnut blasting) is the most appropriate method and to also run the higher octane fuel in them.
I'd also treat some of what you read on the Mini related forums with a pinch of salt as some of the tuned cars were probably not that well maintained before they were tuned, and in some instances the Stage 2 or 3 maps just stretched the engines to the point of throwing a piston (there isn't a tuner that probably hasn't had at least one customer car fail after remapping for the stage 2 maps, especially those that might have the well known "barbecue" mode and I'm sure they clearly all state that re-mapping can reduce the engine "life" and they are not held responsible for previous poor maintenance). If you are going to own a Stage 2 tuned car, I'd recommend you get the oil changed a lot more frequently than the manufacturer recommends, using an uprated oil and also allow the car to fully warm up/cool down if using it in a spirited fashion.
If you are intending on buying a stock car to modify from scratch, PM me and I'll share with you what it cost to do the performance mods on mine.
Although i like the sound of the BBQ map i don't think i would ever have it on mine. Coking up is a big problem for the N14 but as mentioned above the timing chain although well documented could be minimised by preventive maintenance, something that people don't seem to do nowadays, they then have a fit when the car does break and most of it could have been solved by having the oil changed at least once a year. We charge £80, people probably spend that every 2 months on a mobile phone ...
sad61t said:
What would you recommend? I thought 0-40 fully synthetic was standard (if a bit thin, presumably to get those MPG figures).
Lohen recommend Miller's 10W50 fully synthetic oil for tuned cars and that's what I've run since mine has been remapped, serviced at least annually even though it only does about 4-5k miles. For the less than £120 each year as a basic oil service it's worth it given how much gets spent on the upgrades.There are clearly issues with the N14, but as we know, people are more liable to post about their issues than those trouble free.
That being said, I didn't want the risk as needed a daily, so bought a N18. Not fussed about JCW styling and a manic stage 2 took me to 240bhp with no mods.
Not going to need the car as much for daily use so going to hit a few trackdays. If I was starting again now for a road/trackday car, I'd consider getting a blown N14 for peanuts and having it rebuilt/strengthened. Reliable in the short term but also future proofs in case you get more serious about trackdays.
That being said, I didn't want the risk as needed a daily, so bought a N18. Not fussed about JCW styling and a manic stage 2 took me to 240bhp with no mods.
Not going to need the car as much for daily use so going to hit a few trackdays. If I was starting again now for a road/trackday car, I'd consider getting a blown N14 for peanuts and having it rebuilt/strengthened. Reliable in the short term but also future proofs in case you get more serious about trackdays.
HenR56 said:
There are clearly issues with the N14, but as we know, people are more liable to post about their issues than those trouble free.
That being said, I didn't want the risk as needed a daily, so bought a N18. Not fussed about JCW styling and a manic stage 2 took me to 240bhp with no mods.
Not going to need the car as much for daily use so going to hit a few trackdays. If I was starting again now for a road/trackday car, I'd consider getting a blown N14 for peanuts and having it rebuilt/strengthened. Reliable in the short term but also future proofs in case you get more serious about trackdays.
Did you decide not to upgrade the clutch with the stage 2 tune? I'm saving at the mo for stage 2 + clutch + diff.That being said, I didn't want the risk as needed a daily, so bought a N18. Not fussed about JCW styling and a manic stage 2 took me to 240bhp with no mods.
Not going to need the car as much for daily use so going to hit a few trackdays. If I was starting again now for a road/trackday car, I'd consider getting a blown N14 for peanuts and having it rebuilt/strengthened. Reliable in the short term but also future proofs in case you get more serious about trackdays.
Sorry, I'm a dick. I meant to say I have stage 1 and didn't bother with any supporting mods.
At the time I had it mapped you could just pay a smaller additional fee to upgrade to the next stages. I believe Manic now insist the dealers charge the full whack for each change so definitely worth getting as much done in one go.
At the time I had it mapped you could just pay a smaller additional fee to upgrade to the next stages. I believe Manic now insist the dealers charge the full whack for each change so definitely worth getting as much done in one go.
If I were you I'd go N18.
I had the N14 in a Citroen DS3 and did my best to keep on top of servicing. Checked/topped up the oil weekly and changed it yearly, fresh filters along with.
I bought it on 22k miles (12 plate) and by 44k it was utterly shagged. It had a walnut blast at 35k to try and sort out the rough idle and hesitation under acceleration but it didn't improve things. At 40k the fuel pump went and then an intermittent issue popped up with the injectors. Replaced both and then the 'death rattle' started.
By this point I'd had enough and punted it to WBAC. A shame really as the rest of the car felt great. I personally wouldn't touch that engine with a barge pole however I'm sure some people have had better luck than I did.
I had the N14 in a Citroen DS3 and did my best to keep on top of servicing. Checked/topped up the oil weekly and changed it yearly, fresh filters along with.
I bought it on 22k miles (12 plate) and by 44k it was utterly shagged. It had a walnut blast at 35k to try and sort out the rough idle and hesitation under acceleration but it didn't improve things. At 40k the fuel pump went and then an intermittent issue popped up with the injectors. Replaced both and then the 'death rattle' started.
By this point I'd had enough and punted it to WBAC. A shame really as the rest of the car felt great. I personally wouldn't touch that engine with a barge pole however I'm sure some people have had better luck than I did.
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