2013 Mini Cooper D - Automatic
Discussion
Morning fellow PHers.
Quick query about this car I've just bought for the missus. It's a lovely thing - black with black alloys - auto gearbox - last of the "old" model before they changed to the dame Edna version in 2014. It's a 2 litre diesel and hits 53mpg on motorway runs. Lush
The only thing is - the gearbox seems a little sticky. It almost slows down a bit when changing gear - like it's stuck - but it's very subtle so may be just the way this transmission is.
I've read a fair bit about the Aisin transmission - and deliberately avoided the earlier models which had known gearbox issues.
I drive a 735i sport with a clunky auto gearbox so the mini gearchange is almost imperceptible in comparison - but does anyone know if these mini gearboxes are just a bit harsh as standard?
It's under warranty for a few months with a main dealer - but I'm fairly sure if I took it in - they would drive it and say it's all normal. Which it may be! Car is on 25,000 miles and serviced at mini main dealer just before I bought it.
Any help with this would be great. Once I've solved this issue I want to remap it. Looks like it will add another 50bhp ish which sounds like a great addition.
Quick query about this car I've just bought for the missus. It's a lovely thing - black with black alloys - auto gearbox - last of the "old" model before they changed to the dame Edna version in 2014. It's a 2 litre diesel and hits 53mpg on motorway runs. Lush
The only thing is - the gearbox seems a little sticky. It almost slows down a bit when changing gear - like it's stuck - but it's very subtle so may be just the way this transmission is.
I've read a fair bit about the Aisin transmission - and deliberately avoided the earlier models which had known gearbox issues.
I drive a 735i sport with a clunky auto gearbox so the mini gearchange is almost imperceptible in comparison - but does anyone know if these mini gearboxes are just a bit harsh as standard?
It's under warranty for a few months with a main dealer - but I'm fairly sure if I took it in - they would drive it and say it's all normal. Which it may be! Car is on 25,000 miles and serviced at mini main dealer just before I bought it.
Any help with this would be great. Once I've solved this issue I want to remap it. Looks like it will add another 50bhp ish which sounds like a great addition.
I have the petrol Cooper auto, and found the best way is to feather the throttle at optimum change points (you soon learn the box) as this gives smoother changes than just holding the throttle down.It gets smoother once warmed up. Worst case is off-throttle into a junction and then a heavy foot; there's a definite lag/lurch as it changes down, and it's far better to pre-select the lower gear on the paddles if you are intending to pull out with intent.
Have you tried Sport mode? (In Drive, move the lever over to the left. The dash display changes from D to DS.) This holds the revs longer, so will change later, and give you control over the gear change using a sequential shift on the stick. If you have paddles, then it stays in the selected gear instead of shifting back to self-select after 10 seconds.
Not sure about the torque curve on the D, but on a light throttle mine changes to minimise the revs at 20/30/40 where the engine is very lacklustre. I assume this is to garner the best official fuel figures (the test has a stepped profile of maintaining certain speeds):
Have you tried Sport mode? (In Drive, move the lever over to the left. The dash display changes from D to DS.) This holds the revs longer, so will change later, and give you control over the gear change using a sequential shift on the stick. If you have paddles, then it stays in the selected gear instead of shifting back to self-select after 10 seconds.
Not sure about the torque curve on the D, but on a light throttle mine changes to minimise the revs at 20/30/40 where the engine is very lacklustre. I assume this is to garner the best official fuel figures (the test has a stepped profile of maintaining certain speeds):
Maracus said:
We've got a Cooper S auto, 2010, N18.
With 69k on it, I'm thinking of a fluid change for the box, has anyone done this? When cold, i.e. winter, it's very rheumatic, but once warm I find it pretty decent.
Haven't done this myself (low miles) but would recommend it despite BMW's very optimistic "sealed for life" regime. Volvo have a 60,000 km (37,000 mile) interval while Aisin themselves say 20,000 km (which is probably too conservative, but Japanese companies tend to err on the side of caution and select the worst case use as the recommended case). It might need a garage to pump out the old oil as the drain point is not sufficient for a full replacement:With 69k on it, I'm thinking of a fluid change for the box, has anyone done this? When cold, i.e. winter, it's very rheumatic, but once warm I find it pretty decent.
sad61t said:
Haven't done this myself (low miles) but would recommend it despite BMW's very optimistic "sealed for life" regime. Volvo have a 60,000 km (37,000 mile) interval while Aisin themselves say 20,000 km (which is probably too conservative, but Japanese companies tend to err on the side of caution and select the worst case use as the recommended case). It might need a garage to pump out the old oil as the drain point is not sufficient for a full replacement:
Great info, thanks.The Volvo specialist has spoken to BMW about it and as it's not on the service schedule, it's an unknown quantity as far as workshop hours they say, and they've not done an oil change!
He reckons around £500 all in with parts, etc. Possible removal of subframe as well.
I'm going to give it a miss, and ride my luck
He reckons around £500 all in with parts, etc. Possible removal of subframe as well.
I'm going to give it a miss, and ride my luck
Maracus - similar story to my enquiries!
I have rung two BMW / mini specialists now. One said they can do the transmission fluid change - but they have to remove and disassemble the gearbox to ensure ALL the oil is changed - not just the amount that will drain.
The other place said they "think" they have a machine that can suck / pump out the oil so it's all changed properly - cost £200 all in - but at 25,000 miles they wouldn't recommend it - and generally they wouldn't get involved with mechanical stuff unless absolutely necessary so they want to do a diagnostic and check / update the software instead. Cost around £160 + vat.
The car was in with a Mini dealership weeks before I got it - for a service etc. So would have thought they'd have updated any software on the car??? Or maybe not.......
This 2nd garage might be onto something though as some changes are beautifully smooth. It could well be the gearbox is just being a bit "dim" when it changes and sticks a bit?
But really I want the gearbox oil done anyway if Aisin are recommending 20,000km. Mines on 25,000 miles now.
Think I will keep looking for a transmission place that inspires more confidence !
I have rung two BMW / mini specialists now. One said they can do the transmission fluid change - but they have to remove and disassemble the gearbox to ensure ALL the oil is changed - not just the amount that will drain.
The other place said they "think" they have a machine that can suck / pump out the oil so it's all changed properly - cost £200 all in - but at 25,000 miles they wouldn't recommend it - and generally they wouldn't get involved with mechanical stuff unless absolutely necessary so they want to do a diagnostic and check / update the software instead. Cost around £160 + vat.
The car was in with a Mini dealership weeks before I got it - for a service etc. So would have thought they'd have updated any software on the car??? Or maybe not.......
This 2nd garage might be onto something though as some changes are beautifully smooth. It could well be the gearbox is just being a bit "dim" when it changes and sticks a bit?
But really I want the gearbox oil done anyway if Aisin are recommending 20,000km. Mines on 25,000 miles now.
Think I will keep looking for a transmission place that inspires more confidence !
When you drain the oil out of the box some of the fluid stays in the torque converter, sometimes the torque converter has a drain on it so you can change 100% of the fluid. With no drain you would have to change the oil 3 times to get most of the oil out. You can sometimes get away with 2 changes, sucking the oil out will not empty the torque converter. Some have filters that can be changed, the change itself is fairly simple, the oil is the most expensive part, usually around £20 per litre and on average 5-10 litres are within the box.
I'll see if i can find the drain and fill plugs on the Mini tomorrow if i get chance.
I'll see if i can find the drain and fill plugs on the Mini tomorrow if i get chance.
carpmaster said:
Maracus - similar story to my enquiries!
But really I want the gearbox oil done anyway if Aisin are recommending 20,000km. Mines on 25,000 miles now.
Think I will keep looking for a transmission place that inspires more confidence !
To be fair, even on 69k the box is 100% ok, it's only when the temperature is sub zero it's a bit arthritic But really I want the gearbox oil done anyway if Aisin are recommending 20,000km. Mines on 25,000 miles now.
Think I will keep looking for a transmission place that inspires more confidence !
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