R53 buying advice
Discussion
Hi,
Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
There could be a potential few faults;
The pre-facelift R53 has an oil filter housing with a plastic cage in the middle; the cage can break and lead to the oil filter bouncing around inside the housing. Also putting a later type or non-OEM oil filter in it can upset it. I had this with an early R50, the solution was putting in a genuine oil filter.
The sensors are also prone to failing.
The pre-facelift R53 has an oil filter housing with a plastic cage in the middle; the cage can break and lead to the oil filter bouncing around inside the housing. Also putting a later type or non-OEM oil filter in it can upset it. I had this with an early R50, the solution was putting in a genuine oil filter.
The sensors are also prone to failing.
Cheers, lads.
The seller did that the garage thinks the car was a little low on oil, and added a little less than a litre into the engine, however the light did not go away after topping up.
Another observation: the car seemed to run quite rich as I could smell gasoline from exhaust at idle. And perhaps there was one rattly noise when I accelerated in second gear - the noise could not be replicated after second and third attempt.
My plan is to reschedule another test drive with the car once sensor has been replaced.
The seller did that the garage thinks the car was a little low on oil, and added a little less than a litre into the engine, however the light did not go away after topping up.
Another observation: the car seemed to run quite rich as I could smell gasoline from exhaust at idle. And perhaps there was one rattly noise when I accelerated in second gear - the noise could not be replicated after second and third attempt.
My plan is to reschedule another test drive with the car once sensor has been replaced.
Don't automatically assume that an oil light is only put on by oil level!
On most cars these days it is both pressure and level that brings the light on.
Just to be on the safe side make sure the warning light comes on when you turn the ignition on but goes our when you start the engine when you do your test drive.
On most cars these days it is both pressure and level that brings the light on.
Just to be on the safe side make sure the warning light comes on when you turn the ignition on but goes our when you start the engine when you do your test drive.
May I chip in a few points?
There is no such thing as a 'JCW Supercharger' - except that the SC fitted to JCWs have a 11% reduced pulley. It may be the car has had a complete SC change to a JCW one.
The only intercooler that is different or upgraded on R53s is the one on a GP. They cost a fortune, even used. On a JCW there is a silver cover on the standard R53 intercooler with JCW on it. Which looks nice, but isn't special, better or different. The covers can be bought for a few quid on eBay.
The oil light warns of low oil pressure not a lack of oil per se. But of course it will come on if the car is v low on oil ..... because there is no oil pressure. If it didn't need much oil, and 1 litre isn't too bad, shouldn't cause low oil pressure, then one of the other causes advised in the replies apply.
And yup the dip sticks are a nightmare to read, especially when the car is hot and you've just turned it off. I always check mine when the car is cold and has sat overnight. Much easier.
My MINI R53 specialist in Kent will do a clutch for £350. Yes, with proper parts. He is just quick and low labour rate, no VAT.
This item on MINI Wiki is good guide to the Generation 1 JCWs:
http://minicooper.wikia.com/wiki/JCW_Tuning_Kits_a...
There is no such thing as a 'JCW Supercharger' - except that the SC fitted to JCWs have a 11% reduced pulley. It may be the car has had a complete SC change to a JCW one.
The only intercooler that is different or upgraded on R53s is the one on a GP. They cost a fortune, even used. On a JCW there is a silver cover on the standard R53 intercooler with JCW on it. Which looks nice, but isn't special, better or different. The covers can be bought for a few quid on eBay.
The oil light warns of low oil pressure not a lack of oil per se. But of course it will come on if the car is v low on oil ..... because there is no oil pressure. If it didn't need much oil, and 1 litre isn't too bad, shouldn't cause low oil pressure, then one of the other causes advised in the replies apply.
And yup the dip sticks are a nightmare to read, especially when the car is hot and you've just turned it off. I always check mine when the car is cold and has sat overnight. Much easier.
My MINI R53 specialist in Kent will do a clutch for £350. Yes, with proper parts. He is just quick and low labour rate, no VAT.
This item on MINI Wiki is good guide to the Generation 1 JCWs:
http://minicooper.wikia.com/wiki/JCW_Tuning_Kits_a...
V987S said:
Hi,
Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
If the engine actually experienced true low oil pressure, insufficient oil supply, there is the possibility the engine suffered some damage. One (or more) main or rod bearings could have experienced metal to metal contact. In mild cases the bearing can tolerate this but it can cause bearing wear, which opens up the clearances and increases the oil needs of that particular bearing.Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
In some cases -- at hot idle -- the oil needs may exceed what the pump can supply and the low oil pressure light may flicker, or even come on solid.
An oil pressure test can be used to determine if an engine has low oil pressure. An oil analysis can be used to determine if the oil has any bearing metal in it.
The problem is the oil analysis and oil pressure test are rather a bit out of the ordinary for a used car check out. Generally if one believes an oil analysis/oil pressure test is necessary it is better to walk away from the car. There is always another car and one without the concerns of possibly having suffered from low oil pressure/insufficient oil supply.
Might add here that when one goes to check out a used car one of the first things he should do is check the engine oil level. Because (ideally) he is visiting the car with the engine cold the oil level should be rather easy to read. A low oil level has to raise a red flag. If the seller couldn't be bothered to top up the oil level prior to having someone look at the car what else has he skimped on?
V987S said:
Hi,
Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Any update on this, did you go for it? it would have to be bought for pennies surely, they are not that expensive for a good one.Test drove an 03 R53 with 6 speed manual the other day. As the seller is motivated to sell and seemed genuine, I am thinking about asking for a hefty discount.
The car has upgraded jcw supercharger and intercooler, and a custom map.
During the test drive, the engine sounded fine, but after a brief drive a red oil warning light (oil pressure light) came on. Car was stopped, and the seller tried to read oil level from unfathomable dipstick. We could not read out the level but there was oil on the stick.
Car started again, no light for a brief moment, then came back on after a short drive.
Seller took car to garage, was told they added less than a little of oil into engine, light still on.
Diagnostic says possible faulty sensor. Seller is replacing both the sensor and a gasket.
My question is: given the circumstances, could there have been potential damage to the engine? It sounded fine even when the light was on.
Thinking about either asking for a hefty discount or walking away.
Would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks for the tips, lads.
The car was sold to a different buyer.
I was told by the seller that the car had a faulty oil pressure sensor and was replaced by him before he sold it on.
Looking back, I am glad that I did not purchase the car as I just got my 987 Boxster S back from the OPC after having its fuel pump replaced.
Now I am contemplating a c63!
The car was sold to a different buyer.
I was told by the seller that the car had a faulty oil pressure sensor and was replaced by him before he sold it on.
Looking back, I am glad that I did not purchase the car as I just got my 987 Boxster S back from the OPC after having its fuel pump replaced.
Now I am contemplating a c63!
V987S said:
Thanks for the tips, lads.
The car was sold to a different buyer.
I was told by the seller that the car had a faulty oil pressure sensor and was replaced by him before he sold it on.
Looking back, I am glad that I did not purchase the car as I just got my 987 Boxster S back from the OPC after having its fuel pump replaced.
Now I am contemplating a c63!
Acquired my 2018 JCW to replace my 2002 Boxster with 317K+ miles. The Boxster had been in 2 times at another dealer (OPC) for a CEL and a P1128 error code.The car was sold to a different buyer.
I was told by the seller that the car had a faulty oil pressure sensor and was replaced by him before he sold it on.
Looking back, I am glad that I did not purchase the car as I just got my 987 Boxster S back from the OPC after having its fuel pump replaced.
Now I am contemplating a c63!
Not ready to give up on the car I had taken the car to a more distant dealer (~25 miles from me) to see if another tech could possibly find/fix the problem. After 30 days though the problem still existed and I retrieved the car. There never was a clear diagnosis made and to get this I would have had to hand the dealer (OPC) a blank check.
Because of the inability to addresss the CEL which meant I could not register/drive the car in California where I live and the high miles (though with everything working and in spite of the CEL/error code the engine still running just fine) and upon driving it from the distant dealer to home realzing that the orignal clutch (!) while not slipping needed replacement I was glad I grabbed the 2018 JCW when I did as it was clear the Boxster's time had come and it was time to move on.
Hi Rockster,
I went through something similar although to a lesser degree.
My 2005 Boxster S has done 50k, and one day last month I was idling by traffic light, the car decided to die.
It would crank but not start, and I stopped attempting fearing it was ims-related. After being towed to OPC, it was diagnosed with faulty fuel pump.
On that same day, the instrument cluster LCD decided to show bright white 'dead' pixels, partially covering mileage readout.
At that moment I just knew it was time to move on as I do not want to go through the hassle of deciding when to replace ims as my clutch does not need doing any time soon.
Was your Boxster on original ims and what would you do if you were in my shoes?
Recently test drove C63 amg performance and it felt wonderful although a little heavy.
I went through something similar although to a lesser degree.
My 2005 Boxster S has done 50k, and one day last month I was idling by traffic light, the car decided to die.
It would crank but not start, and I stopped attempting fearing it was ims-related. After being towed to OPC, it was diagnosed with faulty fuel pump.
On that same day, the instrument cluster LCD decided to show bright white 'dead' pixels, partially covering mileage readout.
At that moment I just knew it was time to move on as I do not want to go through the hassle of deciding when to replace ims as my clutch does not need doing any time soon.
Was your Boxster on original ims and what would you do if you were in my shoes?
Recently test drove C63 amg performance and it felt wonderful although a little heavy.
Goes without saying, but drive a few. At the age they are now many are baggy or have been ragged to death.
Recaro seats are desirable.
Open the bonnet and check the strut top mounts for any splits. It's not a massive job to fix, but if they are split the camber on the front wheels will be out and this will scrub the tyres/the car won't handle right.
Smaller supercharger pulley/works airbox is desirable, gives a noticeable power increase.
Final things to look out for are same as buying a classic Mini:
Oil leaks and rust....
Get the car on a ramp, check the rear subframe and body around the fuel tank/rear subframe area for corrosion. Have a look at the underside of the engine while you are at it for oil leaks.
It can be surprising how rusty the R53 can be underneath, when it looks all fine on top. Especially if it has lived somewhere with a lot of salt on the roads.
Check around the tailgate for rust spots too.
Recaro seats are desirable.
Open the bonnet and check the strut top mounts for any splits. It's not a massive job to fix, but if they are split the camber on the front wheels will be out and this will scrub the tyres/the car won't handle right.
Smaller supercharger pulley/works airbox is desirable, gives a noticeable power increase.
Final things to look out for are same as buying a classic Mini:
Oil leaks and rust....
Get the car on a ramp, check the rear subframe and body around the fuel tank/rear subframe area for corrosion. Have a look at the underside of the engine while you are at it for oil leaks.
It can be surprising how rusty the R53 can be underneath, when it looks all fine on top. Especially if it has lived somewhere with a lot of salt on the roads.
Check around the tailgate for rust spots too.
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