Timing chain replacement cost.
Discussion
How much does a timing chain replacement cost including guide rails on an R56 cooper s. I was expecting about £800 - £1k from a Indy but been quoted £570 from a specialist, is that about right. I was tempted to sell but I can't find a replacement and it's come out lower that I expected.
Those who had it did it rattle at idle as per YouTube videos. Mines at 2kish, sounds like a diesel tank and chain chatter when you give it some.
Those who had it did it rattle at idle as per YouTube videos. Mines at 2kish, sounds like a diesel tank and chain chatter when you give it some.
I've just had a look at the cost for Lohen Mini as a regarded specialist to do the job and their cost is about £610 including VAT (classed as 'Option 2') with an oil service to do the guides and the chain. There's a train of thought that poor management of the oil levels is why the chain issues come about, hence why Lohen include an oil change as part of their cost so in essence you've had a minor service at the same time. There are of course other specialists available, it's just that Lohen publish a full schedule of costs and explanations (in case the Moderators might think I was advertising them, which I'm not)
I was fortunate that my R56 Cooper S had had this work done already, but then the high pressure fuel pump issue reared its ugly head but now that's done, I hopefully won't need to replace that again!! - they're a great little car, especially if they've had a few 'tweaks' like mine has.
I was fortunate that my R56 Cooper S had had this work done already, but then the high pressure fuel pump issue reared its ugly head but now that's done, I hopefully won't need to replace that again!! - they're a great little car, especially if they've had a few 'tweaks' like mine has.
Pretty much inline then. I did buy a new tensioner but going to fit it it appears to already have been done so thought no point bothering.
Decoke is on offer to so going to have that done as I'm not sure it's been done and it's throwing a few symptoms. Even if I keep it a decoke now will see me the life of the car.
How much did the hpfp set you back. Prices weren't to bad but bmw tripped the price overnight.m one seems ok I think but this is DIY job so. Not so bad if it does go.
Decoke is on offer to so going to have that done as I'm not sure it's been done and it's throwing a few symptoms. Even if I keep it a decoke now will see me the life of the car.
How much did the hpfp set you back. Prices weren't to bad but bmw tripped the price overnight.m one seems ok I think but this is DIY job so. Not so bad if it does go.
bazza white said:
Pretty much inline then. I did buy a new tensioner but going to fit it it appears to already have been done so thought no point bothering.
Decoke is on offer to so going to have that done as I'm not sure it's been done and it's throwing a few symptoms. Even if I keep it a decoke now will see me the life of the car.
How much did the hpfp set you back. Prices weren't to bad but bmw tripped the price overnight.m one seems ok I think but this is DIY job so. Not so bad if it does go.
My hpfp was from BMS & I had my local garage fitted it (& I sadly had to get it after BMW stuffed the price up but still much less than the BMW price!). I use Seafoam as a fuel additive periodically for preventing coking up but I'm just about to try the witchcraft of an oil catch can. My car isn't used as a daily & when it's driven, it's usually in a spirited fashion or on track so I'm keeping fingers crossed I doesnt need a decoke in the future.Decoke is on offer to so going to have that done as I'm not sure it's been done and it's throwing a few symptoms. Even if I keep it a decoke now will see me the life of the car.
How much did the hpfp set you back. Prices weren't to bad but bmw tripped the price overnight.m one seems ok I think but this is DIY job so. Not so bad if it does go.
Just giving this a bump...
I think I've got the beginnings of the "death rattle" on my MCS, not heard it previously but in the cold mornings we've had recently there's definitely been more racket from under the bonnet, especially at the 1500-2000rpm range. Does anyone have an idea of the current cost to get it done? I'd normally DIY it but at this time of year it'd be a rather unpleasant experience.
I've kept on top of the oil level and it gets changed every 6k miles without fail. I have noticed the oil coming out is always pretty black (when comparing it to what comes out of the Vectra during a change), is this a trait of DI petrol engines? When I bought the car 18 months ago the oil was black so no idea when it had been done previously so it was put on a regular change routine. Could it be just the oil pulling old muck out of the engine over time and therefore nothing to worry about?
I think I've got the beginnings of the "death rattle" on my MCS, not heard it previously but in the cold mornings we've had recently there's definitely been more racket from under the bonnet, especially at the 1500-2000rpm range. Does anyone have an idea of the current cost to get it done? I'd normally DIY it but at this time of year it'd be a rather unpleasant experience.
I've kept on top of the oil level and it gets changed every 6k miles without fail. I have noticed the oil coming out is always pretty black (when comparing it to what comes out of the Vectra during a change), is this a trait of DI petrol engines? When I bought the car 18 months ago the oil was black so no idea when it had been done previously so it was put on a regular change routine. Could it be just the oil pulling old muck out of the engine over time and therefore nothing to worry about?
I got a quote from the local BMW / Mini garage to get an idea of the cost - to replace the chain, tensioner, all guides and the cam sprockets was £1300 all in, £650 for parts, £650 for labour...
None of the timing chain kits I've seen for the Mini replace the cam sprockets as well, although it makes sense to do these at the same time, and it seems odd as they all usually include the crank sprocket and new cam bolts as a matter of course.
Yes it's dealer price but still, £1300, ouch!!
Going back over the paperwork it looks like the tensioner was replaced not long before I got the car, so about 20k miles ago...
None of the timing chain kits I've seen for the Mini replace the cam sprockets as well, although it makes sense to do these at the same time, and it seems odd as they all usually include the crank sprocket and new cam bolts as a matter of course.
Yes it's dealer price but still, £1300, ouch!!
Going back over the paperwork it looks like the tensioner was replaced not long before I got the car, so about 20k miles ago...
Do you have any recommendations for timing tools? Seen a fair few sets on ebay around the £50-70 mark, all claim to be for the N14 (I've already got a torque wrench capable of the low setting needed for the tensioner).
I'm now tempted to get the bits and DIY it, need to do something over the Xmas break
Slight derail but Neo Bros are doing the HPFP for £335 delivered for the N14 (ordered for when that fails) and £398 for the N18. Another £110 for the fuel lines that need to be replaced at the same time.
I'm now tempted to get the bits and DIY it, need to do something over the Xmas break
Slight derail but Neo Bros are doing the HPFP for £335 delivered for the N14 (ordered for when that fails) and £398 for the N18. Another £110 for the fuel lines that need to be replaced at the same time.
steve-5snwi said:
Even the cheap sets do the job, you only need to lock it off the once. I didn't change the fuel lines when mine got changed, we just fitted the pump. So far no fuel leaks. Have you got the fitting guide for the timing chain ?
Sorry, only just seen your reply - I've got the trusty Haynes manual and read a few online guides, is there a better guide available? Sorry to hijack the topic, I'm considering buying an 09 R56 (N14) with 67k on the clock. It's in a nice condition with a full service history but it's not main dealer or specialist (looks a bit like Kwik fit service) and it's not been done every 6 months- There have been some gaps between some of a couple of the services of about 15 months. There isn't any sign of a timing chain issue but I don't know if the tensioner has been replaced. If I get the tensioner replaced, do you think it's still worth buying or should I steer clear, save a little more and get an N18. The car will come with a 12 month Gold Warranty (Mechanical, electrical inc wear & tear up to £5000 per claim).
blackchilliman said:
t400ble said:
Service interval is every 6 months??
No but from what I've read, the oil levels need checked every 6 months.Firstly, you should check the fluid levels much more frequently than every 6 months & when you do that do you stamp the book? No you don't.
Paid £400 labour rates for the timing chain and tensioners on my 2009 R56 1.4 Mini, sourced the timing kit for £77, only changed the chains and tensioners didn't bother with crank things.
Got some cheap LL04 oil and filter also of ebay, £30
The car was running terribly and the timing was completely out, had hesitation and misfires, the chain was seriously stretched, bought very cheap because of these symptoms (£800) but I knew it was down to the chain, as it was the original chain after 140,000 miles!!!
I didn't bother with the VVT or crank pulleys, just the chain and tensioner, with the car being quite leggy, and is just a stop gap car for now so didn't want to sticks alot of money into it.
Car runs superbly now, and drives well, should see me through a year or so motoring.
About a day's work so mainly labour costs at a local back street garage
as quite fiddly and tight in the engine bay, so took longer than it should of, definitely got my money back or more so if I come to sell
Main issue is long service intervals, keep on top of these all should be fine.
Got some cheap LL04 oil and filter also of ebay, £30
The car was running terribly and the timing was completely out, had hesitation and misfires, the chain was seriously stretched, bought very cheap because of these symptoms (£800) but I knew it was down to the chain, as it was the original chain after 140,000 miles!!!
I didn't bother with the VVT or crank pulleys, just the chain and tensioner, with the car being quite leggy, and is just a stop gap car for now so didn't want to sticks alot of money into it.
Car runs superbly now, and drives well, should see me through a year or so motoring.
About a day's work so mainly labour costs at a local back street garage
as quite fiddly and tight in the engine bay, so took longer than it should of, definitely got my money back or more so if I come to sell Main issue is long service intervals, keep on top of these all should be fine.
Edited by 757 on Saturday 11th December 12:34
Edited by 757 on Saturday 11th December 12:38
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