R57 Jerky/Hesitant Getaway + other minor things
Discussion
We have a 2010 Cooper Convertible recently bought through Approved Used Mini scheme and would appreciate some assistance on some issues:
1. Hesitant getaway - it's very difficult to pull off smoothly as the clutch engagement is far from perfect. The clutch is light but bite is quite high, but from what I've read on here that is quite normal. It's the jerky getaway that annoys - it's fine going up the gears once on the move. It's almost like whatever way you try it, you get what feels like an engine flat spot that means every getaway is hesitant. It;s better warm than when cold.
2. Annoying 'thunk' from the drivers side - to give you an idea it sounds like a slightly quieter version of the doorlocks engaging once on the move. This noise occurs when loading or unloading the car [ie accelerating or braking] which suggests something is loose behind either the door card or the rear passenger trim panel, and it only happens on the drivers side.
3. Central two elements on heated rear screen not working
Has anyone else had similar problems, particularly with the clutch and the 'thunk'?
The car has been back to Mini a week after we bought the car who say:
Clutch - 'completely normal'. I don't buy that but can't be sure what else to say.
Thunk - 'we don't sort out rattles - but we can't hear anything anyway'. It's a Mini Convertible so I get rattles, but this sounds like an object is rolling around loose in the bodywork - maybe a loose screw or bolt?
Rear Screen - 'we won't replace or fix it' - is it a difficult job to swap out the heated screen on a convertible?
I get that it's a six year old car but as an Approved Used with the premium and pre-sale checks that go with it, am I really expecting too much to ask them to deal with these issues?
Any thoughts appreciated
1. Hesitant getaway - it's very difficult to pull off smoothly as the clutch engagement is far from perfect. The clutch is light but bite is quite high, but from what I've read on here that is quite normal. It's the jerky getaway that annoys - it's fine going up the gears once on the move. It's almost like whatever way you try it, you get what feels like an engine flat spot that means every getaway is hesitant. It;s better warm than when cold.
2. Annoying 'thunk' from the drivers side - to give you an idea it sounds like a slightly quieter version of the doorlocks engaging once on the move. This noise occurs when loading or unloading the car [ie accelerating or braking] which suggests something is loose behind either the door card or the rear passenger trim panel, and it only happens on the drivers side.
3. Central two elements on heated rear screen not working
Has anyone else had similar problems, particularly with the clutch and the 'thunk'?
The car has been back to Mini a week after we bought the car who say:
Clutch - 'completely normal'. I don't buy that but can't be sure what else to say.
Thunk - 'we don't sort out rattles - but we can't hear anything anyway'. It's a Mini Convertible so I get rattles, but this sounds like an object is rolling around loose in the bodywork - maybe a loose screw or bolt?
Rear Screen - 'we won't replace or fix it' - is it a difficult job to swap out the heated screen on a convertible?
I get that it's a six year old car but as an Approved Used with the premium and pre-sale checks that go with it, am I really expecting too much to ask them to deal with these issues?
Any thoughts appreciated
The exact same thunk/clunk when on&off the throttle on ours, was the door latch mechanism clunking as the body flexes.
It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
If you have the aux warranty the. The heated rear screen and the rattles are cheers covered. Sounds like a useless garage, book it in at another mini dealer. The only thing is if it's within 30 days of buying the car, then all warranty costs have to be covered by the dealer and not mini themselves, hence that's probably why they are trying to fob u off.
I suggest taking it to another dealer and they will claim the money from the original dealer.
The thunk is indeed probably from the door lock, but it probably doesn't need adjusting - just requires libricating with a silicone type lubricant or Kluber
I suggest taking it to another dealer and they will claim the money from the original dealer.
The thunk is indeed probably from the door lock, but it probably doesn't need adjusting - just requires libricating with a silicone type lubricant or Kluber
Miglia 888 said:
The exact same thunk/clunk when on&off the throttle on ours, was the door latch mechanism clunking as the body flexes.
It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
Where do I make the adjustment ot the lock mechanism?It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
Thunk is not there with roof and all windows down, which is a bit strange
ShinyF1 said:
Miglia 888 said:
The exact same thunk/clunk when on&off the throttle on ours, was the door latch mechanism clunking as the body flexes.
It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
Where do I make the adjustment ot the lock mechanism?It can be adjusted/tightened to shut it up for a while, but the side effects can make the door handle opening mechanism very stiff.
Ours started clunking again a few thousand miles later, so haven't bothered getting it adjusted again - you get used to it eventually...
Thunk is not there with roof and all windows down, which is a bit strange
If it doesn't do it with the roof down, I could be mistaken and yours could be some different clunk related to the roof mechanism - they rattle too, but you get used to it eventually...
I've had 3 SLK's previously - if anyone wants a quiet & rattle-free time roof up or down, they're a far better bet than soft-tops, however, even the sportiest SLK's aren't as much fun to drive on an empty B road as a MINI convertible.
Have you tried only lowering all windows while leaving the roof up, to try and isolate whether your clunk is solely roof or window related?
Aplogies, beyond that and asking the supplying dealer to find & cure the rattle, I'm out of suggestions.
Elliot2000 said:
If you have the aux warranty the. The heated rear screen and the rattles are cheers covered. Sounds like a useless garage, book it in at another mini dealer. The only thing is if it's within 30 days of buying the car, then all warranty costs have to be covered by the dealer and not mini themselves, hence that's probably why they are trying to fob u off.
I suggest taking it to another dealer and they will claim the money from the original dealer.
The thunk is indeed probably from the door lock, but it probably doesn't need adjusting - just requires libricating with a silicone type lubricant or Kluber
Rattles are classed as an adjustment and therefore not covered under AUG warranty. I suggest taking it to another dealer and they will claim the money from the original dealer.
The thunk is indeed probably from the door lock, but it probably doesn't need adjusting - just requires libricating with a silicone type lubricant or Kluber
The rear screen "elements" not working will likely be the built in aerial.
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