Lightened flywheel / clutch problem R53

Lightened flywheel / clutch problem R53

Author
Discussion

jazzdude

Original Poster:

900 posts

158 months

Saturday 9th January 2016
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I have been having problems with the clutch on an R53 I bought last year. It has had pulley and exhaust mods and a lightended Fidanza flywheel. I dont know what clutch it has but it always juddered on pulling away in first, unless you carefully fed the revs and matched the clutch and then it is fine.

This was explained to me by the seller as being a symptom of a 'racing' clutch (as there 'is no mass intertia') and I was none the wiser, just learnt to live with it.

But the clutch has now started slipping in every gear when the throttle is opened up fully, as if the engine is not connected to the gearbox. It pulls away normally and if not pushed drives normally but slips when more power is added.

Do I bin the flywheel and clutch, put new OEM back on (although I have heard they are made from chocolate) or is there an aftermarket clutch that can work with this flywheel that will allow me to drive the car normally on the roads, without creeping away from the lights?

Either way, with the huge cost of labour involved I want to do what is economically viable.

Edited by jazzdude on Saturday 9th January 19:00

wild rover

447 posts

187 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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I would get it stripped down first to ensure there is no scoring on the flywheel surface with the clutch slipping normally ok if attended to sooner rather than later. I don't see why the flywheel could be kept and a standard clutch assembly fitted taking into account the cover plate was compatible. Best of luck.

mon the fish

1,439 posts

154 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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Standard clutch is perfectly fine for the power you can make with the Eaton.

I'm on 230bhp, 77k miles and still on the original clutch, no issues at all

jazzdude

Original Poster:

900 posts

158 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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The Fidanza clutch has a replaceable friction plate and have been told that it is worth keeping this flywheel over buying a new DMF OEM one.

I also understand that properly set up, a mild aftermarket replacement clutch will have very good road manners, even with a lightweight flyweel so I am looking at finding a replacement.

The previous owner just told me that it had a SPEC clutch on it, a USA made thing, so I am currently looking into alternatives.

mon the fish

1,439 posts

154 months

Monday 11th January 2016
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I'd speak to 1320, they'll have fitted more uprated clutches than anyone and would be well-placed to advise. Or Lohen

CarsOrBikes

1,142 posts

190 months

Wednesday 13th January 2016
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Spec also make a flywheel which I think might even be a step up from Fidanza. Your symptom sounds like there was wear on the clutch anyway, personally I would keep the flywheel, check when it is removed that a sprung friction plate was used, if not that will cause a snatchy clutch and maybe more judder, but some judder is written about with light conversions, but mostly rattle. There will be a performance gain from a light flywheel which you may miss if reverting. I intend to fit similar to mine soon. The Fidanza has a replaceable surface plate, so just look at suppliers of those and find a clutch that is typically sold with them perhaps?

CarsOrBikes

1,142 posts

190 months

Wednesday 13th January 2016
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Spec also make a flywheel which I think might even be a step up from Fidanza. Your symptom sounds like there was wear on the clutch anyway, personally I would keep the flywheel, check when it is removed that a sprung friction plate was used, if not that will cause a snatchy clutch and maybe more judder, but some judder is written about with light conversions, but mostly rattle. There will be a performance gain from a light flywheel which you may miss if reverting. I intend to fit similar to mine soon. The Fidanza has a replaceable surface plate, so just look at suppliers of those and find a clutch that is typically sold with them perhaps?