Buying an R50 Cooper - what to look for?
Discussion
Hi all,
Im looking at buying an R50 Cooper, ive been searching for ages and have found one at the right price with not too high miles on the clock. Buying from a main dealer so hopefully any problems will be sorted out so long as I spot them in time, unfortunately gonna have to get it delivered so gonna get it shipped to a local branch and then check it out there, might have to commit first but should be covered by distance selling and the like giving me enough time to check it all over.
So, heard a lot about gearbox issues, any way I can tell if its a decent one or not? Any key things to look for?
In terms of everything else, is there any major issues I should be aware of and should definitely check? If its over 10 years old with 80,000 miles on the clock is it likely to be OK?
Cheers in advance!
Im looking at buying an R50 Cooper, ive been searching for ages and have found one at the right price with not too high miles on the clock. Buying from a main dealer so hopefully any problems will be sorted out so long as I spot them in time, unfortunately gonna have to get it delivered so gonna get it shipped to a local branch and then check it out there, might have to commit first but should be covered by distance selling and the like giving me enough time to check it all over.
So, heard a lot about gearbox issues, any way I can tell if its a decent one or not? Any key things to look for?
In terms of everything else, is there any major issues I should be aware of and should definitely check? If its over 10 years old with 80,000 miles on the clock is it likely to be OK?
Cheers in advance!
Just did the exact same. Wife was specific in which colour combo she wanted and spotted one at a dealer 300 miles away.
Bought over the phone, paid 150 quid to have it delivered to my door and got it mot'd by garage and independent delivery driver to confirm it ran smoothly. Had 90k on the clock but runs smoothly.
Turned out the aircon had lost its charge but luckily only 50 quid at kwikfit to repair.
If really unsure pay 100 odd quid to get aa inspection.
Would recommend you get a 2004 facelift model with gertrag gearbox though.
Bought over the phone, paid 150 quid to have it delivered to my door and got it mot'd by garage and independent delivery driver to confirm it ran smoothly. Had 90k on the clock but runs smoothly.
Turned out the aircon had lost its charge but luckily only 50 quid at kwikfit to repair.
If really unsure pay 100 odd quid to get aa inspection.
Would recommend you get a 2004 facelift model with gertrag gearbox though.
Possible issues with the R50 include the dodgy Midland gearbox (we has a reconditioned unit fitted a while ago when ours disintegrated 
), sticky electric windows (can be fixed by had if you are happy to dismantle the doors), unreliable power steering pump (ours has been fine though), failing headlight levelling motors and leaks into the passenger cabin that eat the electronics (expensive). Oh and cracking coolant pipes/reservoir and easily broken drivers seats.
The 3rd brake-light can leak, filling the toolbox well with water.
The steering wheel can clunk when rotating it, irritating but not dangerous. Can be fixed with some lubricant in the right place.
Check mini2.com for all the gory details, problems and fixes
However most of these are easy and cheap(ish) to fix (or ignore - like the seat issues) - only the gearbox and power steering are an expensive problem.
), sticky electric windows (can be fixed by had if you are happy to dismantle the doors), unreliable power steering pump (ours has been fine though), failing headlight levelling motors and leaks into the passenger cabin that eat the electronics (expensive). Oh and cracking coolant pipes/reservoir and easily broken drivers seats.The 3rd brake-light can leak, filling the toolbox well with water.
The steering wheel can clunk when rotating it, irritating but not dangerous. Can be fixed with some lubricant in the right place.
Check mini2.com for all the gory details, problems and fixes
However most of these are easy and cheap(ish) to fix (or ignore - like the seat issues) - only the gearbox and power steering are an expensive problem.
Check the exhaust back box, they rot like a gangrenous toe.
A pattern part replacement is fine though and should be under £100 fitted.
Power steering pumps go, they whine audibly but not intrusively when working.
Engine mounts are hydraulic, and can fail. Will feel notice vibration through steering under hard acceleration in 3rd.
They windscreen/wipers something whistles makes noise when going very fast over a ton. (Only on track)
Engines as a unit are bomb proof. Tritec 1.6, very smooth and torquey for a 1.6, plenty of fun.
There is no synchromesh on reverse, so they crunch if you are still rolling forwards if when you engage it.
Mine has been faultless apart from a back box. But it was an August 06 r50, one of the last to be made and has the Getrag box.
A pattern part replacement is fine though and should be under £100 fitted.
Power steering pumps go, they whine audibly but not intrusively when working.
Engine mounts are hydraulic, and can fail. Will feel notice vibration through steering under hard acceleration in 3rd.
They windscreen/wipers something whistles makes noise when going very fast over a ton. (Only on track)
Engines as a unit are bomb proof. Tritec 1.6, very smooth and torquey for a 1.6, plenty of fun.
There is no synchromesh on reverse, so they crunch if you are still rolling forwards if when you engage it.
Mine has been faultless apart from a back box. But it was an August 06 r50, one of the last to be made and has the Getrag box.
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