Hydraulic Fluid Bentley Turbo R 1990
Discussion
Can anyone tell me if the leakage of hydraulic fluid from a 1990 Bentley Turbo R is common please? Thing is, I'm having to top levels up fairly often but the garage floor is dry as a bone. The light on the dash keeps flashing but never stays on more than a split second, I'm told it's because the fluid levels are low and the float is moving about.
The latest MOT gave an advisory saying "Nearside & Offside rear Shock Absorber has a light misting of oil".
Does the very fact that these cars and RRs have a purpose made compartment in the boot in which to keep two bottles of hydraulic fluid mean that what I'm experiencing is nothing to concern myself with as this is a trait with these cars?
If this is the case, do I just continue to top up and use the car as per usual?
Thank you!
The latest MOT gave an advisory saying "Nearside & Offside rear Shock Absorber has a light misting of oil".
Does the very fact that these cars and RRs have a purpose made compartment in the boot in which to keep two bottles of hydraulic fluid mean that what I'm experiencing is nothing to concern myself with as this is a trait with these cars?
If this is the case, do I just continue to top up and use the car as per usual?
Thank you!
generally speaking, they do use oil. BUT this should be of the order of a thimble full every month or so. Any more than that and you've got a leak.
That means that you have to find where the leak is as a first step, and set about fixing it thereafter.
if it's in the rear dampers, then to some extent you can just keep topping it up, but if it's in either brake circuit, then you must take remedial action immediately.
which circuit is leaking ? both rear dampers are run from circuit 1 on Turbo R, so if it is circuit 2 that uses the fluid then you know you have a brake leak.
perhaps now would be a good time to have a hydraulic overhaul ? you don't have to go for the full £3000 job, changing the four accumulators and cleaning filters could be done for a couple of hundred quid. You'd also find out where your leak is as well.
Just for reference, mine is currently getting the full overhaul. I took it off the road because it had developed an appetite for fluid which I thought excessive - around half a litre for 1000 miles.
That means that you have to find where the leak is as a first step, and set about fixing it thereafter.
if it's in the rear dampers, then to some extent you can just keep topping it up, but if it's in either brake circuit, then you must take remedial action immediately.
which circuit is leaking ? both rear dampers are run from circuit 1 on Turbo R, so if it is circuit 2 that uses the fluid then you know you have a brake leak.
perhaps now would be a good time to have a hydraulic overhaul ? you don't have to go for the full £3000 job, changing the four accumulators and cleaning filters could be done for a couple of hundred quid. You'd also find out where your leak is as well.
Just for reference, mine is currently getting the full overhaul. I took it off the road because it had developed an appetite for fluid which I thought excessive - around half a litre for 1000 miles.
Thanks for your advice, it's much appreciated.
Forgive my ignorance regarding Circ 1 & Circ 2. Am I right in assuming these are the circular containers in which you put the FHM fluid, the ones with the yello/green instructions? If so, then it's the one furthest from the nearside that takes a lot of fluid, the nearest one seems ok.
It is the rear dampers that show misting of fluid. Both a local garage & MOT centre have said the same.
Forgive my ignorance regarding Circ 1 & Circ 2. Am I right in assuming these are the circular containers in which you put the FHM fluid, the ones with the yello/green instructions? If so, then it's the one furthest from the nearside that takes a lot of fluid, the nearest one seems ok.
It is the rear dampers that show misting of fluid. Both a local garage & MOT centre have said the same.
How much are you topping up? and how often?
If the garage floor is dry, but you are topping up regularly, then clearly there's a problem somewhere. I would have expected at least some tell-tale drops of fluid on the floor as a guide to where the fault may be?
I don't actually keep mine topped up fully (well, to the level, but no more than that), because after being left for a week or three, it sits on its arse like an old abandoned Citroen and pushes any overfill out of the overflow and it runs onto the floor in a puddle just below the front nearside 'A' panel, ahead of the front nearside jacking point.
I used to use/lose a lot of fluid in this way, but there wasn't a fault and it wasn't leaking any, it was just me overfilling it. Now I leave it just below the underside of the marker ring, rather than above it, and it uses virtually none.
IIRC one of the most likely places for a leak, from an accumulator seal, is the two that are next to each other as a pair, under the engine adjacent to the sump. That or rear shockers, particularly nearside for some reason.
Have you got a decent Indy 'round your way?
Another good source of practical DIY advice is your local contingent of RREC members (rather than the BDC), many of whom appear to be pretty hard core retired engineers from industry.
If the garage floor is dry, but you are topping up regularly, then clearly there's a problem somewhere. I would have expected at least some tell-tale drops of fluid on the floor as a guide to where the fault may be?
I don't actually keep mine topped up fully (well, to the level, but no more than that), because after being left for a week or three, it sits on its arse like an old abandoned Citroen and pushes any overfill out of the overflow and it runs onto the floor in a puddle just below the front nearside 'A' panel, ahead of the front nearside jacking point.
I used to use/lose a lot of fluid in this way, but there wasn't a fault and it wasn't leaking any, it was just me overfilling it. Now I leave it just below the underside of the marker ring, rather than above it, and it uses virtually none.
IIRC one of the most likely places for a leak, from an accumulator seal, is the two that are next to each other as a pair, under the engine adjacent to the sump. That or rear shockers, particularly nearside for some reason.
Have you got a decent Indy 'round your way?
Another good source of practical DIY advice is your local contingent of RREC members (rather than the BDC), many of whom appear to be pretty hard core retired engineers from industry.
Edited by Balmoral Green on Thursday 22 October 16:49
Thanks Balmoral Green. I did notice the offside rear was sitting down somewhat, but after adding some LHM (half a bottle or so) it's leveled out and lifted nicely.
I did think there was a leak coming from one or more of the thin green tubes coming out of the hydraulic oil containers, but had it checked out and they were ok.There is not one drop of LHM on the garage floor, in fact the car is perfectly dry underneath.
What worries me really I suppose is that the hydraulic light keeps flashing, it never stays on all the time, but flashes when I go over a bump even after I've topped the levels up. If it's purely flashing because the float moves then thats ok.
I did go up a steep hill the other day and the light did stay on all the time till I reached the top, but all the weight was on the rear dampers then.
Thanks yet again for your advice. I think the way yourself and others of similar interests take the time to give advice to novices like me is fantastic and much appreciated.
I did think there was a leak coming from one or more of the thin green tubes coming out of the hydraulic oil containers, but had it checked out and they were ok.There is not one drop of LHM on the garage floor, in fact the car is perfectly dry underneath.
What worries me really I suppose is that the hydraulic light keeps flashing, it never stays on all the time, but flashes when I go over a bump even after I've topped the levels up. If it's purely flashing because the float moves then thats ok.
I did go up a steep hill the other day and the light did stay on all the time till I reached the top, but all the weight was on the rear dampers then.
Thanks yet again for your advice. I think the way yourself and others of similar interests take the time to give advice to novices like me is fantastic and much appreciated.
One thing I found that not everyone does is:
With the engine off pump the brake pedal for some time to ensure system is depressurised BEFORE topping up.
That cured mine for a long time before I needed to top up again - also once you have topped right up, next time don't put the full 500 ml in as it will overfill and run out as Bal Green says.
Mine's due a 60k service soon and I'm still looking for a decent independent near East Yorks.
Anyone know feedback on Executive Cars Nottingham way?
With the engine off pump the brake pedal for some time to ensure system is depressurised BEFORE topping up.
That cured mine for a long time before I needed to top up again - also once you have topped right up, next time don't put the full 500 ml in as it will overfill and run out as Bal Green says.
Mine's due a 60k service soon and I'm still looking for a decent independent near East Yorks.
Anyone know feedback on Executive Cars Nottingham way?
Waffagolf said:
Can anyone tell me if the leakage of hydraulic fluid from a 1990 Bentley Turbo R is common please? Thing is, I'm having to top levels up fairly often but the garage floor is dry as a bone. The light on the dash keeps flashing but never stays on more than a split second, I'm told it's because the fluid levels are low and the float is moving about.
The latest MOT gave an advisory saying "Nearside & Offside rear Shock Absorber has a light misting of oil".
Does the very fact that these cars and RRs have a purpose made compartment in the boot in which to keep two bottles of hydraulic fluid mean that what I'm experiencing is nothing to concern myself with as this is a trait with these cars?
If this is the case, do I just continue to top up and use the car as per usual?
Thank you!
Hi if you are still having problems with the fluid level give me a call on 07807840027 and will try and help.Worked on Rolls and Bentley since 1974 and have just started own specialised garage for these cars.Thanks BrianThe latest MOT gave an advisory saying "Nearside & Offside rear Shock Absorber has a light misting of oil".
Does the very fact that these cars and RRs have a purpose made compartment in the boot in which to keep two bottles of hydraulic fluid mean that what I'm experiencing is nothing to concern myself with as this is a trait with these cars?
If this is the case, do I just continue to top up and use the car as per usual?
Thank you!
Hi there, not sure if my problem is related but am starting to suspect a bad hydraulic pump.
I have only just bought the car two weeks ago, it is a 1993 Turbo R with 76k miles.
When I turn right, the car makes a whining noise. Also when I brake, the car makes the same noise. It only does it when the car is hot, and gets gradually worse the warmer the car gets until it reaches it’s maximum ‘whine’.
The mechanic tightened the front bearings and had a look at the rear. They are all apparently okay. He claimed that the rear bearings cannot be tightened but said they looked fine.
I have just returned home from a 20 minute drive and after about 7 minutes, checked the brake fluid and both levels appear to be fine.
The brake pads have been re greased. They are fairly new having only been changed 700 miles ago, and to eliminate any chance of this problem being brake related, the mechanic swapped the pads over from one side to the other.
I understand that it is possible that it is a rear bearing and my mechanic hasn’t checked it sufficiently. Although surely this wouldn’t make a difference as to whether the car is hot or not?
Might it be the pump failing?
Thanks a lot for any advice,
Bertie
I have only just bought the car two weeks ago, it is a 1993 Turbo R with 76k miles.
When I turn right, the car makes a whining noise. Also when I brake, the car makes the same noise. It only does it when the car is hot, and gets gradually worse the warmer the car gets until it reaches it’s maximum ‘whine’.
The mechanic tightened the front bearings and had a look at the rear. They are all apparently okay. He claimed that the rear bearings cannot be tightened but said they looked fine.
I have just returned home from a 20 minute drive and after about 7 minutes, checked the brake fluid and both levels appear to be fine.
The brake pads have been re greased. They are fairly new having only been changed 700 miles ago, and to eliminate any chance of this problem being brake related, the mechanic swapped the pads over from one side to the other.
I understand that it is possible that it is a rear bearing and my mechanic hasn’t checked it sufficiently. Although surely this wouldn’t make a difference as to whether the car is hot or not?
Might it be the pump failing?
Thanks a lot for any advice,
Bertie
Bertie
I have 1990 Turbo R, and I recall being told by Stuart at T&H in Barnet that the rear wheel-bearings are not adjustable.
I will ask something really dumb. Are you sure that on 'lock' a tyre is not rubbing on the wheel-arch? 255/65/15s appear oversize within the wheel arch,and if you have misalignment of the wing/liner, or rust has caused the wheel arch to swell (ouch!) it might be a mechanical noise you are hearing.
These cars are built like tanks, so it is difficult to envisage any of the belt/chain/shaft-driven pumps deflecting, Could there be a low fluid-level that is causing a pumping device to to be temporarily starved or take in air?
Hope you sort the problem, but without offering an unemployed person a zero-hours minimum wage contract to be strapped onto the bonnet (or the wing) and troubleshoot the problem for you, this is going to need either a lot of trial and error, or going to someone who 'knows' I have always found Michael at Wraith Motors very helpful.
Cheers
KEITH
I have 1990 Turbo R, and I recall being told by Stuart at T&H in Barnet that the rear wheel-bearings are not adjustable.
I will ask something really dumb. Are you sure that on 'lock' a tyre is not rubbing on the wheel-arch? 255/65/15s appear oversize within the wheel arch,and if you have misalignment of the wing/liner, or rust has caused the wheel arch to swell (ouch!) it might be a mechanical noise you are hearing.
These cars are built like tanks, so it is difficult to envisage any of the belt/chain/shaft-driven pumps deflecting, Could there be a low fluid-level that is causing a pumping device to to be temporarily starved or take in air?
Hope you sort the problem, but without offering an unemployed person a zero-hours minimum wage contract to be strapped onto the bonnet (or the wing) and troubleshoot the problem for you, this is going to need either a lot of trial and error, or going to someone who 'knows' I have always found Michael at Wraith Motors very helpful.
Cheers
KEITH
bunderwood said:
Hi there, not sure if my problem is related but am starting to suspect a bad hydraulic pump.
I have only just bought the car two weeks ago, it is a 1993 Turbo R with 76k miles.
When I turn right, the car makes a whining noise. Also when I brake, the car makes the same noise. It only does it when the car is hot, and gets gradually worse the warmer the car gets until it reaches it’s maximum ‘whine’.
The mechanic tightened the front bearings and had a look at the rear. They are all apparently okay. He claimed that the rear bearings cannot be tightened but said they looked fine.
I have just returned home from a 20 minute drive and after about 7 minutes, checked the brake fluid and both levels appear to be fine.
The brake pads have been re greased. They are fairly new having only been changed 700 miles ago, and to eliminate any chance of this problem being brake related, the mechanic swapped the pads over from one side to the other.
I understand that it is possible that it is a rear bearing and my mechanic hasn’t checked it sufficiently. Although surely this wouldn’t make a difference as to whether the car is hot or not?
Might it be the pump failing?
Thanks a lot for any advice,
Bertie
Just in case you don't realise - it's not clear from the post - the power steering pump is separate and distinct from the hydraulic pump that runs the brakes and suspension system. There are 2 hydraulic reservoirs for the brakes and suspension and one for the power steering. The power steering is a conventional system.I have only just bought the car two weeks ago, it is a 1993 Turbo R with 76k miles.
When I turn right, the car makes a whining noise. Also when I brake, the car makes the same noise. It only does it when the car is hot, and gets gradually worse the warmer the car gets until it reaches it’s maximum ‘whine’.
The mechanic tightened the front bearings and had a look at the rear. They are all apparently okay. He claimed that the rear bearings cannot be tightened but said they looked fine.
I have just returned home from a 20 minute drive and after about 7 minutes, checked the brake fluid and both levels appear to be fine.
The brake pads have been re greased. They are fairly new having only been changed 700 miles ago, and to eliminate any chance of this problem being brake related, the mechanic swapped the pads over from one side to the other.
I understand that it is possible that it is a rear bearing and my mechanic hasn’t checked it sufficiently. Although surely this wouldn’t make a difference as to whether the car is hot or not?
Might it be the pump failing?
Thanks a lot for any advice,
Bertie
Is your mechanic experienced with these cars? I have known very experienced excellent mechanics loose their way on these vehicles because much of the design does not follow convention.
If you are new to ownership, just also beware of some of the specialists.....many are extremely expensive because of the sheer amount of time they charge out. For many owners, part of the rights of passage into ownership is getting stung by one or more of these people!
The specialist I use is a 1000 round trip for me. So far it's been worth it, following poor standard of work and nauseating pomposity from one well known specialist!!
If you would like more detail please feel free to message me.
You need to put the car up in the air and have a look. My Brooklands R is leaking around the brake accumulators. I can see the fluid on the accumulators themselves even tough I need any on the floor. If it's your brake accumulators, you need to be careful as you could lose braking should your engine ever die when you're driving.
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