Newbie Considering BENTLEY TURBO R MK IV 1996
Discussion
Ive just been watching Wheeler Dealers and they have done up a Turbo 1983 and it looked superb, it got me thinking for the 5 mile commute to work rather than have a German whatever losing £15k a year what about a Turbo R
My brother had one in the eighties and it brings back lots of memories thinking about it
I have a specialist near me called Mulliner near Chester and I believe a good indie is in Aigburth also
Mulliner have a 70k mles car that looks lovely (will arrange a looksy this week)
Im aware they are not cheap to run, and they drink, its other stuff I need to know
Based on the above can i ask the forum.
Is 96 a good year for a Turbo R ?
Will it handle being a daily driver (it will be my mon - fri car)
Anything obvious to look for and anything not so obvious about living with one
How do Mulliner rate as a dealer
I assume a short warranty has to be offered by law but should I extend ?
Typical servicing cost based on 8k miles per year
Its £13k and Im comfy spending this but if a 98 is a much better car should I look for a newer one etc
Any help appreciated
My brother had one in the eighties and it brings back lots of memories thinking about it
I have a specialist near me called Mulliner near Chester and I believe a good indie is in Aigburth also
Mulliner have a 70k mles car that looks lovely (will arrange a looksy this week)
Im aware they are not cheap to run, and they drink, its other stuff I need to know
Based on the above can i ask the forum.
Is 96 a good year for a Turbo R ?
Will it handle being a daily driver (it will be my mon - fri car)
Anything obvious to look for and anything not so obvious about living with one
How do Mulliner rate as a dealer
I assume a short warranty has to be offered by law but should I extend ?
Typical servicing cost based on 8k miles per year
Its £13k and Im comfy spending this but if a 98 is a much better car should I look for a newer one etc
Any help appreciated
Can't comment on the dealer but can comment on the car. My advice is to buy the newest best cared for example you can afford. Fantastic cars but by golly can they cost a lot to maintain. The obvious checks are the suspension, brakes, hyds, and headgaskets. If you end up needing that lot at once you are staring down the barrel of about 15k !
as with most things, it's a bit "horses for courses"
you don't say if you're minded to do some work yourself.
I have a Mulsanne Turbo, bought for £4K off e-bay, but then again I do everything myself apart from paint. I also have a distinct advantage in starting my car design career at Rolls-Royce Motors. and working in prototype development for the last 15years.
The type. Turbo R makes great sense for what you're proposing. As with most other "old" cars, they respond well to regular use, or at least to a usage pattern that doesn't change. I would make time to use it for longer trips regularly, but you'll find yourself making excuses to drive it anyway. There are a number of milestones that are important in the type's development, and these are roughly; introduction of twin headlamps, fuel injection, four speed, electronic damping, electronic fuel injection. Desirability and hence price increases correspondingly. Beware, as things like twin headlemps can be retro-fitted with ease, an early car with twin lamps and a chavvy number plate looks much more modern.
Generally, they're really fine driver's cars, much more so than you'd expect and have a real road presence - other road users tend either to love it (80%) or hate you (20%). Actually, the thing I love most about mine is that it can turn a really bad day at work into a good one before you've even left the car park - and that just can't be bought.
The actual car. Right - listen-up. I always tell people about the law of diminishing returns here.
You get a lot of car for the money, and if you're the type who likes to look flash, then you can do this for little outlay. But beware, the flash type never spends money on maintenance, with the result that the car suffers. This then makes it cheaper, so the next flash-hunter can buy even more car for even less money, but also has less to spend on maintenance and so on - leading into a downward spiral. This will have affected all but the £25k+cars by now. If you're going to buy one and to rely on it and to treat it as it deserves, you must commit to breaking this downward spiral, which will cost you money.
so to choices..... You can buy a car which is at the most expensive end of your spectrum and leave little reserve for maintenance OR you can buy something cheaper and invest in it's long-term health. The true situation needs to be somewhere in the middle. As an example, I've replaced pretty much all the wearing parts in the suspension, all the hydraulic pipes and seals and the carburettor (for fuel injection) this year. So it's transmission & engine rebuild next.
perhaps you should prioritise your search by the most expensive parts to repair/maintain.
bodywork & paint is the most expensive.
next is hydraulics
then some of the later gizmos, like electronic dampers
then "wear" parts
absolute top of the range for this car would be perhaps £30k
lowest possible would be say £5k
you should maybe test-drive a few. I looked at a number, including one very dodgy black one on the Wirral with smoked windows and very crumbly sills, before settling on mine with new rear wheel arches and wings, but with a "floppy" ride.
hope this is food for thought - given that you buy with eyes open, you'll not regret it.
you don't say if you're minded to do some work yourself.
I have a Mulsanne Turbo, bought for £4K off e-bay, but then again I do everything myself apart from paint. I also have a distinct advantage in starting my car design career at Rolls-Royce Motors. and working in prototype development for the last 15years.
The type. Turbo R makes great sense for what you're proposing. As with most other "old" cars, they respond well to regular use, or at least to a usage pattern that doesn't change. I would make time to use it for longer trips regularly, but you'll find yourself making excuses to drive it anyway. There are a number of milestones that are important in the type's development, and these are roughly; introduction of twin headlamps, fuel injection, four speed, electronic damping, electronic fuel injection. Desirability and hence price increases correspondingly. Beware, as things like twin headlemps can be retro-fitted with ease, an early car with twin lamps and a chavvy number plate looks much more modern.
Generally, they're really fine driver's cars, much more so than you'd expect and have a real road presence - other road users tend either to love it (80%) or hate you (20%). Actually, the thing I love most about mine is that it can turn a really bad day at work into a good one before you've even left the car park - and that just can't be bought.
The actual car. Right - listen-up. I always tell people about the law of diminishing returns here.
You get a lot of car for the money, and if you're the type who likes to look flash, then you can do this for little outlay. But beware, the flash type never spends money on maintenance, with the result that the car suffers. This then makes it cheaper, so the next flash-hunter can buy even more car for even less money, but also has less to spend on maintenance and so on - leading into a downward spiral. This will have affected all but the £25k+cars by now. If you're going to buy one and to rely on it and to treat it as it deserves, you must commit to breaking this downward spiral, which will cost you money.
so to choices..... You can buy a car which is at the most expensive end of your spectrum and leave little reserve for maintenance OR you can buy something cheaper and invest in it's long-term health. The true situation needs to be somewhere in the middle. As an example, I've replaced pretty much all the wearing parts in the suspension, all the hydraulic pipes and seals and the carburettor (for fuel injection) this year. So it's transmission & engine rebuild next.
perhaps you should prioritise your search by the most expensive parts to repair/maintain.
bodywork & paint is the most expensive.
next is hydraulics
then some of the later gizmos, like electronic dampers
then "wear" parts
absolute top of the range for this car would be perhaps £30k
lowest possible would be say £5k
you should maybe test-drive a few. I looked at a number, including one very dodgy black one on the Wirral with smoked windows and very crumbly sills, before settling on mine with new rear wheel arches and wings, but with a "floppy" ride.
hope this is food for thought - given that you buy with eyes open, you'll not regret it.
Thank you 2Woody for a detailed and informed reply, mucho appreciated
You dont do pre purchase inspections do you
)
Im looking at the red 96 N at Mulliners any chance you can look it up and tell me what you think (sorry to be cheeky but Im clueless at present)
10 years with one owner and 70k miles sounds good though
You dont do pre purchase inspections do you
)Im looking at the red 96 N at Mulliners any chance you can look it up and tell me what you think (sorry to be cheeky but Im clueless at present)
10 years with one owner and 70k miles sounds good though
DS, best to check that the 60K service has been done, because its hoooooge, lots of fluids replaced and brake hoses are replaced if deemed necessary.
My father owns a 1994 Brooklands, and its wonderful. He looked at about 20 cars before going for a trade in from Broughtons.
Only non service items replaced have been steering rack (reconditioned), rear suspension sphere and alternator (also reconditioned).
Its a great car to drive, and the on road presence is staggering.
He is currently driving it around Europe, having already visited Switzerland, Austria, Hungary and Bratislava.
My father owns a 1994 Brooklands, and its wonderful. He looked at about 20 cars before going for a trade in from Broughtons.
Only non service items replaced have been steering rack (reconditioned), rear suspension sphere and alternator (also reconditioned).
Its a great car to drive, and the on road presence is staggering.
He is currently driving it around Europe, having already visited Switzerland, Austria, Hungary and Bratislava.
My 2 penneth and we do sell the odd Bentley! (3 in stock at the min)
Goes without saying buy the very best car for your budget.......if you cannot find a nice 96 mdl for the budget, buy a 94/95 mdl thats superb, rather than an iffy 96.
A really nice 96 mdl car with say 60K miles should be around £18K-22K retail depending where you are buying it from.
Vital you get it inspected by someone who knows the cars inside out.
If you need any further advice, or want to have a look/drive at a proper example (even if to compare to others you look at) drop me a PM through my profile
have had a quick look - it's quite a late car - a 4-speed with adaptive ride. And quite a low-priced one, too.
I'd have a look at its history - the same owner for a period of time should point to lots of bills, etc.
I'd certainly get those wheels off, too. It looks like they've got the wrong offset.
I could maybe come have a look, but I'm entirely unofficial ! it's not at the other end of the country, maybe 150 miles away.
I'll pm you my contact details
I'd have a look at its history - the same owner for a period of time should point to lots of bills, etc.
I'd certainly get those wheels off, too. It looks like they've got the wrong offset.
I could maybe come have a look, but I'm entirely unofficial ! it's not at the other end of the country, maybe 150 miles away.
I'll pm you my contact details
No prob Mulliner GT I got a vouch ok from a local garage I know and at present I have 3 shortlisted one a few miles away at Mulliners, one in Kent and one in London !!!!
From £12k to £22k for much the same car however one has done 39k miles only and is nice and red (has to be red or blue)
Will update my search as it develops
From £12k to £22k for much the same car however one has done 39k miles only and is nice and red (has to be red or blue)
Will update my search as it develops
Update.
A Pearl red 97 has been pre purchased (blind) based on the warranty and buyer package which is unrivalled in my experience of any car let alone a 12 year old one.
The car dealer is in London apparently a RR / Bentley supermarket, the long wheel base Turbo R at £20k is top money BUT Im viewing this in the context of buying it instead of a RS6 / C63 / E63 coupe for the next 2 years at least.
The sales method is:
10% Deposit, car has a 12m MOT, 6m Tax, 24000 mile service (major) and a 101 point inspection it is then delivered in a covered wagon foc and the driver waits whilst the car is inspected, if satisfied they accept a bank draft for the balance and the delivery guy leaves.
Warranty, they have a satellite workshop in Manchester and for the 2 year duration of the warranty its a collect and deliver service. Initially the first 60 days is every nut, bolt and switch thereafter its as per the AA 5 star warranty but with collection included. Tyres have a min gtee of 10k miles left on them or replaced new
Prior to delivery they are fitting overrugs front and rear and parking aids (factory type) front and rear.
I sent an A4 sheet with all the poignant questions inc filler, gaskets, accident damage etc and all were answered and traceable.
Just got to wait a week or so now .....
A Pearl red 97 has been pre purchased (blind) based on the warranty and buyer package which is unrivalled in my experience of any car let alone a 12 year old one.
The car dealer is in London apparently a RR / Bentley supermarket, the long wheel base Turbo R at £20k is top money BUT Im viewing this in the context of buying it instead of a RS6 / C63 / E63 coupe for the next 2 years at least.
The sales method is:
10% Deposit, car has a 12m MOT, 6m Tax, 24000 mile service (major) and a 101 point inspection it is then delivered in a covered wagon foc and the driver waits whilst the car is inspected, if satisfied they accept a bank draft for the balance and the delivery guy leaves.
Warranty, they have a satellite workshop in Manchester and for the 2 year duration of the warranty its a collect and deliver service. Initially the first 60 days is every nut, bolt and switch thereafter its as per the AA 5 star warranty but with collection included. Tyres have a min gtee of 10k miles left on them or replaced new
Prior to delivery they are fitting overrugs front and rear and parking aids (factory type) front and rear.
I sent an A4 sheet with all the poignant questions inc filler, gaskets, accident damage etc and all were answered and traceable.
Just got to wait a week or so now .....
+1.
A visual inspection on delivery is not going to help you very much. I wouldn't touch any R-R or Bentley without giving it a full, independent inspection before making any kind of commitment.
A visual inspection on delivery is not going to help you very much. I wouldn't touch any R-R or Bentley without giving it a full, independent inspection before making any kind of commitment.
Edited by atomicpunk on Monday 19th October 18:35
Edited by atomicpunk on Monday 19th October 18:36
It sounds good to me, if it's not up to scratch you can always reject it. The 1st three months should be good enough to note anything that requires attention, and if the used car warranty cover is as good as can be expected for a 13 year old car, you should still be OK if something big fails.
Paying top dollar for the very best isn't exactly big money with these things anyway is it? 6K for a snotter, 12K for something middling, or 20K for a stonkingly wonderful example?
I hope it's everything you expected, and more
Paying top dollar for the very best isn't exactly big money with these things anyway is it? 6K for a snotter, 12K for something middling, or 20K for a stonkingly wonderful example?
I hope it's everything you expected, and more
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