Rolls Royce Silver Shadow 2 Cutting out. Oil level?
Discussion
Hi y'all - I bought a silver shadow 2 over the weekend and drove it up north over Sat and Sun. During the run she cut out at speed, backfired a few times, then started of her own free will after a few hundred metres of the two of us coasting along (which is "fun" without steering or brakes).
I thought she was just clearing her throat being 27 years old. However the next day she cut out again twice and again yesterday. The specialist I spoke to said it was likely to be the oil level sensor/ relay as they get a bit dicky so at the last breakdown, I had a good look. Then I thought, what if the oil is actually low and the sensor is right (she had had all levels checked before setting off). So I pressed the button on the dash (interesting feature) to find out the oil level and voila, the oil is just on "min". A mate took me to the nearest garage, bought some oil, topped it up and it started. Great.
Drove it to work this morning which is only 3 miles, and she cut out again. I managed to coast into a garage (scary as I careered round their entrance at 20 mph and had to use the parking brake to slow me down) and park up. I've pressed the button on the dash again and now it looks like the oil level is too high (it was at 3/4 after the fill yesterday).
So, my question is this: is there a "high" level alarm that cuts the engine out just like the "low" level alarm? Also, why is there no warning that its going to cut out - like I say, I've been lucky so far in where she's cut out but luck will run out sooner or later.
I thought she was just clearing her throat being 27 years old. However the next day she cut out again twice and again yesterday. The specialist I spoke to said it was likely to be the oil level sensor/ relay as they get a bit dicky so at the last breakdown, I had a good look. Then I thought, what if the oil is actually low and the sensor is right (she had had all levels checked before setting off). So I pressed the button on the dash (interesting feature) to find out the oil level and voila, the oil is just on "min". A mate took me to the nearest garage, bought some oil, topped it up and it started. Great.
Drove it to work this morning which is only 3 miles, and she cut out again. I managed to coast into a garage (scary as I careered round their entrance at 20 mph and had to use the parking brake to slow me down) and park up. I've pressed the button on the dash again and now it looks like the oil level is too high (it was at 3/4 after the fill yesterday).
So, my question is this: is there a "high" level alarm that cuts the engine out just like the "low" level alarm? Also, why is there no warning that its going to cut out - like I say, I've been lucky so far in where she's cut out but luck will run out sooner or later.
Balmoral Green said:
Sorry, can't help with the fault, but good luck with it.
Thanks. I spoke to a specialist garage yesterday and they told me that it was totally coincidence that the car fired after topping up the oil as the oil level alarm and ignition system are not interlocked! I went through some more checks and found that there is no spark from the coil so the garage said the ignition module below the distributor is dodgy. They then suggested that I hit it with a hammer, which I did. She then fired up.Great British engineering!!!
fatbutt said:
They then suggested that I hit it with a hammer, which I did. She then fired up.
Great British engineering!!!
Great British engineering!!!
I used to do that with the fuel pump on my old Bentley MKVI, which was located under the chassis runner underneath the drivers seat. If it packed up in traffic, I would open the door and lean under the car and wack the chassis rail with a hammer, without getting out. Used to make folks laugh.
The ignition modules are a common fault on Shadow II models and it's surprising that it has not already been replaced. Tapping it with a hammer may get you home but it will let you down completely at some point so replace it.
Also, regarding the oil causing the engine to cut out, possibly the person advising you got mixed up. There is an oil pressure switch that allows the fuel pumps to work. If the pressure dropstoo low, the fuel pumps cut out and you (hopefully) prevent major damage. It is not related to the oil level gauge unit; although obviously very low oil level may affect pressure.
It's worth checking the brake hydraulic system has good pressure in the gas spheres, as these are your brake pressure reserve if the engine stalls. It should allow you to stop safely if it is in good order, but sometimes get neglected by owners.
They are a great car, enjoy it.
Desmo
Also, regarding the oil causing the engine to cut out, possibly the person advising you got mixed up. There is an oil pressure switch that allows the fuel pumps to work. If the pressure dropstoo low, the fuel pumps cut out and you (hopefully) prevent major damage. It is not related to the oil level gauge unit; although obviously very low oil level may affect pressure.
It's worth checking the brake hydraulic system has good pressure in the gas spheres, as these are your brake pressure reserve if the engine stalls. It should allow you to stop safely if it is in good order, but sometimes get neglected by owners.
They are a great car, enjoy it.
Desmo
Balmoral Green said:
I used to do that with the fuel pump on my old Bentley MKVI, which was located under the chassis runner underneath the drivers seat. If it packed up in traffic, I would open the door and lean under the car and wack the chassis rail with a hammer, without getting out. Used to make folks laugh.
ha haive just made a exhaust for my dads S1 and started it to make sure it didnt rattle on the floor like the crappy thing i took off (it didnt, thank god!).
it hadnt started for nearly two years and took three batterys...
1) in the boot to crank it
2) attached to the fuel pump under the car with croc clips - i also had a length of hose from the pump into a can of fuel
3) attached via long wires to the coil - the battery in the boot was to weak to crank it and fire the coil!
it finally fired up!
has anyone else noticed that rollers and bentleys from the 30's to the 60's have a distinct noise thay make when the motor kicks the bendix back out the starter when they fail to start?
just have to finish the front suspension, welding and paint.....................
Desmo said:
The ignition modules are a common fault on Shadow II models and it's surprising that it has not already been replaced. Tapping it with a hammer may get you home but it will let you down completely at some point so replace it.
Yup. Got it started yesterday (via "percussive adjustment" ) and it got me around the carpark 1 1/2 times before it cut out again. So she's parked up in the work carpark and I've asked the "specialist" for a new one. Do you have to replace the entire alternator as I've had a good look and to get at the controller I'll have to take the rotor and backing plate off?Desmo said:
Also, regarding the oil causing the engine to cut out, possibly the person advising you got mixed up. There is an oil pressure switch that allows the fuel pumps to work. If the pressure dropstoo low, the fuel pumps cut out and you (hopefully) prevent major damage. It is not related to the oil level gauge unit; although obviously very low oil level may affect pressure.
Right again! Desmo said:
It's worth checking the brake hydraulic system has good pressure in the gas spheres, as these are your brake pressure reserve if the engine stalls. It should allow you to stop safely if it is in good order, but sometimes get neglected by owners.
Aye, there is absolutely no brake force when the engine is not running so that's something else to have a look at.Desmo said:
They are a great car, enjoy it.
Desmo
That's the plan. Thanks for the advice.Desmo
The ignition module is fitted inside the distibutor itself. It is quite easy to fit if you are mechanically minded. It connects to the ballast resistor which is fitted to the rear of the A bank(RH side)cylinder head.
The hydraulic system needs to be done by a RR specialist, because special tools are required to split the gas sphere (accumulators) and they need 900 /1000 PSI of nitrogen gas charged into them when rebuilt. The charge valves (pressure regulators) should be overhauled at the same time.
regards, Desmo.
The hydraulic system needs to be done by a RR specialist, because special tools are required to split the gas sphere (accumulators) and they need 900 /1000 PSI of nitrogen gas charged into them when rebuilt. The charge valves (pressure regulators) should be overhauled at the same time.
regards, Desmo.
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