Purchasing a Bentley Continental gt
Discussion
Hi I’m looking for abit of advice, I’m looking to move into a Bentley Continental gt towards the end of the year/beginning of next so doing some early research and seeing what’s about on the market.
I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
The Bentley gt build process is similar to VW/Audi in that they built the engine and drive unit etc. Then raise it into the body. One area that is made of chocolate are the gearbox vacuum and hoses above the gearbox that deteriorates with heat and requires the engine out. You can hear a hiss at the firewall if the engine is running and it wont shift.
Turbos/Cats are prone to failure, if you are pulling the engine have these changed as access is expensive. Smoking or a engine light on walk away.
Window motors can fail. Make sure everything goes up/down quietly as these are expensive to repair.
Air suspension is another issue. Car should sit level. Not sag or delay moving and the air pump should only go on clicking occasionally every couple of minutes. If the pump is running every 10 seconds or constantly then you have a leak. This will eat the pump and you need that done as well as the bags. At 10 years they may need to be done or have already been done.
The rear brake light is built into the rear screen. Make sure all the leds work.
You can get alot of wor done by specialist garages and bits from VW/Audi garages as a Phaeton or A8 is the same beast. So shop around for repairs and parts which are not Bentley specific. I got the service done by Bentley and then the repairs done by a cheaper garage once I knew the problem.
Make sure the wood and trim is perfect and leather is clean. Rings on the previous owner make marks on it and this is sphincter tightening in terms of cost.
Turbos/Cats are prone to failure, if you are pulling the engine have these changed as access is expensive. Smoking or a engine light on walk away.
Window motors can fail. Make sure everything goes up/down quietly as these are expensive to repair.
Air suspension is another issue. Car should sit level. Not sag or delay moving and the air pump should only go on clicking occasionally every couple of minutes. If the pump is running every 10 seconds or constantly then you have a leak. This will eat the pump and you need that done as well as the bags. At 10 years they may need to be done or have already been done.
The rear brake light is built into the rear screen. Make sure all the leds work.
You can get alot of wor done by specialist garages and bits from VW/Audi garages as a Phaeton or A8 is the same beast. So shop around for repairs and parts which are not Bentley specific. I got the service done by Bentley and then the repairs done by a cheaper garage once I knew the problem.
Make sure the wood and trim is perfect and leather is clean. Rings on the previous owner make marks on it and this is sphincter tightening in terms of cost.
When you say 'looking to move into a Bentley Continental gt', the only real advice I can offer is to rethink your plans and, perhaps, consider a coachbuilt motorhome. The GT might be a big(gish) car but there really isn't much room inside if you intend to sell up your house and live in the car (tough times?).
If you're thinking of keeping the house as well, then, after general condition, I'd concentrate on documented evidence of proper maintenance. Many of these, in my experiemce, have had numerous owners who are after a certain 'image' but can't afford to run them properly, so they skimp maintenance and try to move them on at the first hint of a big bill. The usual rules apply; an obvious lack of money spent on the basics such as discs/pads, premium tyres etc should ring alarm bells. Servicing ideally at a franchised dealer or reputable marque specialist.
Check, and re-check, all electrical items and lights, including higher level brake light, keys, aircon etc etc. Fundamentally, they're strong cars but service bills running into multiple £thousands, especially for the more major services, as with any premium car, shouldn't come as a surprise. Some jobs can involve time consuming engine-out work, with associated labour costs.
If you're thinking of keeping the house as well, then, after general condition, I'd concentrate on documented evidence of proper maintenance. Many of these, in my experiemce, have had numerous owners who are after a certain 'image' but can't afford to run them properly, so they skimp maintenance and try to move them on at the first hint of a big bill. The usual rules apply; an obvious lack of money spent on the basics such as discs/pads, premium tyres etc should ring alarm bells. Servicing ideally at a franchised dealer or reputable marque specialist.
Check, and re-check, all electrical items and lights, including higher level brake light, keys, aircon etc etc. Fundamentally, they're strong cars but service bills running into multiple £thousands, especially for the more major services, as with any premium car, shouldn't come as a surprise. Some jobs can involve time consuming engine-out work, with associated labour costs.
Tomf50 said:
Hi I’m looking for abit of advice, I’m looking to move into a Bentley Continental gt towards the end of the year/beginning of next so doing some early research and seeing what’s about on the market.
I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
So would the general advice be to go with a car priced more competitively( don’t want to say cheaper as that’s not my priority ) which would leave plenty of money held to remedy anything that’s required or would people think going for a car from say Hanwells with the 2 year warranty albeit paying more for this privilege is the way forward?I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
I’ve got no expectation of running this car cheaply or on a shoe string so those comments aren’t necessary but if I can avoid the potential of bigger bills by not buying a dud
Tomf50 said:
Tomf50 said:
Hi I’m looking for abit of advice, I’m looking to move into a Bentley Continental gt towards the end of the year/beginning of next so doing some early research and seeing what’s about on the market.
I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
So would the general advice be to go with a car priced more competitively( don’t want to say cheaper as that’s not my priority ) which would leave plenty of money held to remedy anything that’s required or would people think going for a car from say Hanwells with the 2 year warranty albeit paying more for this privilege is the way forward?I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
I’ve got no expectation of running this car cheaply or on a shoe string so those comments aren’t necessary but if I can avoid the potential of bigger bills by not buying a dud
I'd look very closely at their warranty exclusions.
i don't think it is possible to run a Bentley inexpensively. New or old.
Tomf50 said:
Hi I’m looking for abit of advice, I’m looking to move into a Bentley Continental gt towards the end of the year/beginning of next so doing some early research and seeing what’s about on the market.
I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
It might be over budget at around $41,000 but I Px'ed my 2010 GT Speed in the summer. It has a full Bentley Service History and below 60,000miles. It is the limited edition '51-series' and immaculate. I had the exhaust changed to a 'Larini Sports exhaust' which gives the driver the option to open or close the valves using a key-fob. Because of the sports exhaust it released more power so I had it professionally Remapped to 706 BHP.I’ve narrowed my search down to a 2008-2010 as I need the Bluetooth telephone and that seems to be the sweet spot for material quality whilst still not being “too old”
I want to get a lower mileage car below say 60k with loads of history and care taken to maintain it and my budget is around 35k
This doesn’t seem to present any problems so far as there are plenty of great spec correct mileage cars that all advertise a fsh and look well cared for, my worry is that any car can be well polished and a fsh doesn’t indicate that much preventative maintenance if any has taken place.
I like the look of Hanwells as there reputation reads well and they offer a 24 month warranty on all there cars plus various pre purchase checks but they do seem rather overpriced compared to other cars on the market.
I’m well aware these cars cost a lot to run and maintain that’s not my concern, my worry is buying a dud and having to constantly bring it up to a standard.
After abit of advice and if any owners have any recommendations on what to look for that would be great.
Sorry for the long post
I did have it wrapped in Sapphire Green Metallic as there were too many black ones around. The garage has had that removed so 'Back to Black'.
Not sure on the 'Posting a Link' rules so PM me if you want the link.
I run a gtc 2007....as other posters suggest, buy well. Review the warranty on offer carefully, the financial limits may not cover likely bills. In my experience, whatever dealers say about checking/servicing a car, I have generally been unimpressed so a pre- purchase inspection by an expert, wherever you buy from, is the best investment. Dealers can rely on you to spot problems and then go back to them to sort it out...
They are lovely cars, and mine has now done 87k miles with mostly routine servicing.
They are lovely cars, and mine has now done 87k miles with mostly routine servicing.
I,am running a 2004
Done about 30 K miles in 3 years .
I keep this in notes as your Q naturally comes up often .
It’s should be possible to avoid a dud .....you just need access to the history file .
No file = walk .
At this age too a book of stamps is pretty meaningless.....in reality.
Any how heres my pasted article
Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .Turbo waste gates solenoids.
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history .To see where you are , get on so to speak - on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/02/11/bentley-...
Done about 30 K miles in 3 years .
I keep this in notes as your Q naturally comes up often .
It’s should be possible to avoid a dud .....you just need access to the history file .
No file = walk .
At this age too a book of stamps is pretty meaningless.....in reality.
Any how heres my pasted article
Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .Turbo waste gates solenoids.
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history .To see where you are , get on so to speak - on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/02/11/bentley-...
Fiammetta said:
I,am running a 2004
Done about 30 K miles in 3 years .
I keep this in notes as your Q naturally comes up often .
It’s should be possible to avoid a dud .....you just need access to the history file .
No file = walk .
At this age too a book of stamps is pretty meaningless.....in reality.
Any how heres my pasted article
?Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “ ?
?Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .?
?Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .Turbo waste gates solenoids. ?
?Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.?
?Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .?
?Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.?
?Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .?
?Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .?
?Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.?
?Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.?
?A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .?
?EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.?
?Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .?
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
?Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .?
?Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .?
?Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history .To see where you are , get on so to speak - on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .?
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/02/11/bentley-...
thank you for this - it was a very helpful and detailed guide. I was surprised about how little there (buyers guide/forums etc) is out there on the continental GTs/Done about 30 K miles in 3 years .
I keep this in notes as your Q naturally comes up often .
It’s should be possible to avoid a dud .....you just need access to the history file .
No file = walk .
At this age too a book of stamps is pretty meaningless.....in reality.
Any how heres my pasted article
?Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “ ?
?Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .?
?Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .Turbo waste gates solenoids. ?
?Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.?
?Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .?
?Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.?
?Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .?
?Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .?
?Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.?
?Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.?
?A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .?
?EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.?
?Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .?
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
?Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .?
?Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .?
?Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history .To see where you are , get on so to speak - on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .?
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/02/11/bentley-...
Can I also ask - is the above the same for the newer ones - 2012 -2014? Also how realistic is it to keep a car on the road without a trickle charger? Maybe without use for a week or at most two?
Sebba said:
thank you for this - it was a very helpful and detailed guide. I was surprised about how little there (buyers guide/forums etc) is out there on the continental GTs/
Can I also ask - is the above the same for the newer ones - 2012 -2014? Also how realistic is it to keep a car on the road without a trickle charger? Maybe without use for a week or at most two?
They seem to not like flat batteries. Perhaps a solar trickle charger that plugs into the lighter socket? https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/products/rsp150-rin...Can I also ask - is the above the same for the newer ones - 2012 -2014? Also how realistic is it to keep a car on the road without a trickle charger? Maybe without use for a week or at most two?
So said:
They seem to not like flat batteries. Perhaps a solar trickle charger that plugs into the lighter socket? https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/products/rsp150-rin...
Thank you So, very useful...i had always wondered whether those Solar panels worked...Sebba said:
So said:
They seem to not like flat batteries. Perhaps a solar trickle charger that plugs into the lighter socket? https://www.thompsonsltd.co.uk/products/rsp150-rin...
Thank you So, very useful...i had always wondered whether those Solar panels worked...I use a solar @ airports etc .But a trickle C is MUST .
Scuttle drains were improved circa 2008 but still block so parking near trees is a no no .
A 2010/12 is in new poly belt territory, leaky alternator o rings , idler pulley , + corroded radiator.
It’s all in the history not the milage .......buy the one with tallest file .
Scuttle drains were improved circa 2008 but still block so parking near trees is a no no .
A 2010/12 is in new poly belt territory, leaky alternator o rings , idler pulley , + corroded radiator.
It’s all in the history not the milage .......buy the one with tallest file .
Tomf50 said:
That does look rather special, what was the name of the garage again???
Junction 9 - JCT9.com - https://www.jct9.com/used-cars/10511463-bentley-co...Does anyone know how the Bentley pre-owned site works? There were a couple of cars on there that I'd planned to view after lockdown, but they have vanished and I know that the dealerships are closed - so I assume they haven't sold them.
Other cars, that have been there for ages, remain on the site.
Is it the case that some ads auto-renew and others don't?
I will just add a note of caution with the history file stuff , Bentley quite often have a blanket yes the car has been in for service X or Service Y at whatever time logged in the service file . One would assume therefore that all of the programmed work is carried out , however after I bought the car GTC w12 , I learned that the plugs which were supposed to have been changed at the big service , at the request of the then owner had been opted out and NOT changed . So dig really deep into the service records and get every single item that has been done and confirmation that ALL the work that should have been carried as per the schedule actually was or don't buy the car , as I found out with mine ,regardless of its full service history and 26000miles , my car was an utter electrical nightmare.... so just be careful .
sandysinclair said:
I will just add a note of caution with the history file stuff , Bentley quite often have a blanket yes the car has been in for service X or Service Y at whatever time logged in the service file . One would assume therefore that all of the programmed work is carried out , however after I bought the car GTC w12 , I learned that the plugs which were supposed to have been changed at the big service , at the request of the then owner had been opted out and NOT changed . So dig really deep into the service records and get every single item that has been done and confirmation that ALL the work that should have been carried as per the schedule actually was or don't buy the car , as I found out with mine ,regardless of its full service history and 26000miles , my car was an utter electrical nightmare.... so just be careful .
This doesn't surprise me.Most of the marques that I deal with insist upon things like servicing up to date, MOT up to date, 2 years warranty etc. Bentley seems to not be so bothered about such annoyances.
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