Turbo R boot lock problem
Discussion
Hi all,
I've recently bought a Turbo R. Adfer a few weeks, I can't get the boot open.
I had the boot open, isolator turned to disconnect, closed and locked the doors manually, closed the boot. I came back 18 hours later and the boot wouldn't open. There's the switch inside for the boot to change it to key or auto. I had left it on auto, but now whether auto or key the boot won't open. Nor will the key turn in the lock to open it regardless of the switch position. I assume the battery is OK at the moment after 18 hours, as for the last few weeks even without the isolator the battery has held charge enough to start the car after at least 5 days. Could it be a solenoid?
Help appreciated. I'd like to get in before the battery does go flat!
I've recently bought a Turbo R. Adfer a few weeks, I can't get the boot open.
I had the boot open, isolator turned to disconnect, closed and locked the doors manually, closed the boot. I came back 18 hours later and the boot wouldn't open. There's the switch inside for the boot to change it to key or auto. I had left it on auto, but now whether auto or key the boot won't open. Nor will the key turn in the lock to open it regardless of the switch position. I assume the battery is OK at the moment after 18 hours, as for the last few weeks even without the isolator the battery has held charge enough to start the car after at least 5 days. Could it be a solenoid?
Help appreciated. I'd like to get in before the battery does go flat!
Sorry it’s not clear but have you reconnected the boot isolation switch? Did the key open the boot before hand? I suspect not as it’s not uncommon for the rod to require a tweak to allow correct key operation. Might pay you to take to number plate off and see if someone has already drilled a hole in the boot lid to access the latch rod, it’s not uncommon.
Edit to add if the key won’t turn in the lock that’s a mechanical issue, nothing to do with the switch in the glovebox.
Edit to add if the key won’t turn in the lock that’s a mechanical issue, nothing to do with the switch in the glovebox.
Edited by corradokid on Wednesday 8th April 21:17
Edited by corradokid on Wednesday 8th April 21:19
Thanks. I follow an old thread on here. This seems to be my problem and the partial solution.
The key had worked, at least 2 or three times. But it had issues from the start which I put down to me not understanding the central locking system. I've come to the conclusion that it is a replacement lock which has not been properly coded to the keys.
So the battery was isolated via the boot switch, which meant the central locking was not working. I powered the central locking from a spare battery connected to the C5 central locking fuse in the glove compartment fuse board. Then with the boot switch in the glovebox set to auto I could unlock the boot with the remote for all the locks.
I got the panel off the the inside of the boot. Everything seemed to work as it should in there. The rod was connected, the plastic piece intact. The solenoid for auto locking was working freely. But the key still would not turn in the lock. There seemed nothing mechanical on the inside to stop it. But there was evidence of previous problems - broken plastic panels, and some metal turnings from a drill stuck to some grease on a plastic panel. Hence my conclusion that the lock must have been replaced and not properly coded. And I did try all 3 keys. So not as if I was using the valet key.
The key had worked, at least 2 or three times. But it had issues from the start which I put down to me not understanding the central locking system. I've come to the conclusion that it is a replacement lock which has not been properly coded to the keys.
So the battery was isolated via the boot switch, which meant the central locking was not working. I powered the central locking from a spare battery connected to the C5 central locking fuse in the glove compartment fuse board. Then with the boot switch in the glovebox set to auto I could unlock the boot with the remote for all the locks.
I got the panel off the the inside of the boot. Everything seemed to work as it should in there. The rod was connected, the plastic piece intact. The solenoid for auto locking was working freely. But the key still would not turn in the lock. There seemed nothing mechanical on the inside to stop it. But there was evidence of previous problems - broken plastic panels, and some metal turnings from a drill stuck to some grease on a plastic panel. Hence my conclusion that the lock must have been replaced and not properly coded. And I did try all 3 keys. So not as if I was using the valet key.
Yep. First thing I did with the barrel- WD40. Had no affect at all. Other owners report broken keys in the lock. I can see exactly how that happens. It's not just stiff, there's something stopping it. But from the rear view everything is fine. Hence I can only think, barrel itself. I've even tried early in the morning when it's cooler, and in the afternoon- warmer. No movement, not a tenth of a mm.
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