I traded a barely alive W123 300D for a dead silver shadow

[alabbasi]

All, last week, I did a deal with a guy in Tennessee where I traded a W123 parts car for a dead Rolls Royce silver shadow. It was a nice deal but required me to load the 300D onto my trailer and drive 450 miles to a 1/2 way meeting point in Memphis to meet and do the swap. I was able to do the 900 mile round trip in 1 day by leaving 8AM and being back at the house by 11:30PM.







I've been slowly working through some off the issues over Christmas and got the car running very briefly. Here's a quick video describing the adventure so far:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQhRfKPt3sw&t=...

[Cleaner]

as a ex Auto Electrician now 75 years hear in UK, I can help hear, the original Alternator as I can see in your Vidio appears to have one terminal missing from the 2 pin field brush holder...perhaps im mistaken ?....not clear in the film, anyway let me tell you that Alternator has a external regulator, its mounted in the boot...to my memory behind the N/Side rear light...remove the trim panel to find....forgive me if its the O/Side panel....been many years now, the part number you will see on the regulator "CAV 440" it has 7 terminals, I can tell you how to test all the system, please note if you fit that Delco Alternator you have, the wiring WONT suit and will have to be modified, im Auto sparks...so no probs... But sparks in the USA re-old school system ???....but in my opinion best to repair the original, as your original CAV Alt is 100amp from R/Royce, a superb system it was too. Peter.

[alabbasi]

Peter , thank you for your response. I'm having a hard time finding rebuilders here in Texas for that alternator. The key question right now is can I live with the delco alternator for a short while until I get the CAV alternator fixed and if I do, do I need to unplug the voltage regulator in the boot. I've been trying to get a straight answer from people for a while now and you're the first person who seems to know exactly what you're talking about.

Appreciated.

[Cleaner]

Yes you can use that "Delco unit" until you get the original CAV unit tested and repaired, I will hear explain hear as simple as I can how to wire the "Delco" unit using some wiring already there, if you find this difficult, do find a good Auto sparks there that understands Alternators as I do...old school CAV set ups , as a mistake re - the wiring may damage the new unit. OK we are going to use part of the CAV wiring...first I want you to see the "Dash warning light on", to do this on the 440 regulator in the boot you will see 1 terminal marked W/L...unplug this...temporary "ground" this wire...turn on ignition only....light must now be on...if not , check the bulb...may have blown or even been removed, you can gain acses to the bulb by turning the chrome outer ring "anti-clock"... without going behind the dash,as a note you will see "HI / "MID" / "LOW" wires....leave exactly where they are...these are not fused...and are solely for CAV use..... so I continue assuming light fine....this will be a "must" be fine to use the Delco"...at the engine end I see that short "Fly wire" coming off the main "Poss + " heavy cable....that is in fact for the 500/600 mega/frad suppressor for Radio in car, but I don't see it...so perhaps lost now, so ignore that, tape up safe, you have now 2 other wires, these would have gone on the CAV unit, on the Field brush holder, if you look at the holder you will see the letters "A" & "F", we are going to use 1 of those wires to use the Dash W/Light to excite the Delco, this will save running a wire just for the Delco...so now back in the boot unplug "A" join to "W/L"....now back to engine...grownd each of the 2 wires left...the one that brings on the Dash light is the one we need...tape the other fore safety....now not being there the 2 small Lucar terminals on the Delco, 1 will be W/light, if not marked im going to play Safe hear, so use both as W/ light...via small link wire. as some Delco units use a live Pos + on the other terminal, but I cant risk it...as some were not.... but there was a GM cars "mod" back in the day to use this. so im sticking with this... reason I wont bore you with !, your Alt needs that heavy Earth wire connected, then turning on ign...light will be "on"...engine started...should charge. Just one other note, that test pump you used proberly over powered the "needle valves" in the SUs"... hence the over flowing....as the pump looks "High" pressure, original pump max 5 /6 psi...your proberly aware, but just a mention. hope of help, if too much, don't risk damage, get Auto sparks as I am. best to you. Peter.

[Cleaner]

Just one thing I did not make clear once "A" & "W/L are joined in the boot, they must NOT be connected to 440 regulator, sure you understand this, but wanted to make it clearer. Peter

[alabbasi]

Peter,

I appreciate your help. This should help until I get the CAV alternator figured out. The is an RR club meeting on the 5th, I'll see if anyone can make recommendations for a local rebuilder.

[alabbasi]

OK so after 3 attempts to find a local rebuilder for the CAV alternator, i think that I found someone who may have an idea so I dropped the alternator off to them on Monday.

I've a little more progress on getting the Rolls Royce running in the meanwhile by replacing all the fuel lines and filter. It still acts out which makes me think that the float bowls are bad, I will remove the carbs next week and give them a look over.

Here's a quick video update:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fY5hqWClJ2k&t=...

[alabbasi]

Cleaner said:

Yes you can use that "Delco unit" until you get the original CAV unit tested and repaired, I will hear explain hear as simple as I can how to wire the "Delco" unit using some wiring already there,

Peter, thanks. I've been focused on the brakes this last few months and just got to this yesterday. The original plan was to rebuild the alternator which I did but then it turned out that the voltage regulator was fried.

There was one extra step needed for the 10si alternator

1) bridge the W/L to the Field (in my case) in the boot
2) Connect the Field wire to the generator spade on the alternator - this gives you the generator light
3) Run a wire from the second spade to the alternator to the big wire on the back of the alternator (missing component) which will excite the alternator and give allow the internal voltage regulator to self regulate

Thanks for your help

[Cleaner]

Yes that's fine, reason I said use both 2 terminals as W/L on the Delco GM [ think it was ] you had ,Alternator as there are many many types, did not want you to put a live "Pos" on the wrong terminal and damaged the Alternator, so on one of the 2 terminals would still see the "Battery Voltage"...but through the Filiment of the Warning light bulb, and so the internal now regulator would regulate the Alternator. but you got it sorted . Peter [ UK ]