Bentley Continental GT - Self closing boot lid
Discussion
Good morning,
just wondering if anybody has experienced this problem and how or if there is any easy fix.
When I press the button on the edge of the (open) boot lid, the lid proceeds to close but
just as it gets to within about half an inch of locking, it opens up again. If I gently push
down on the lid when it gets to this point, the soft close mechanism takes over and it locks.
Anybody got any ideas?
just wondering if anybody has experienced this problem and how or if there is any easy fix.
When I press the button on the edge of the (open) boot lid, the lid proceeds to close but
just as it gets to within about half an inch of locking, it opens up again. If I gently push
down on the lid when it gets to this point, the soft close mechanism takes over and it locks.
Anybody got any ideas?
Only a guess but I had a roof fault light come up on my gtc v8 and after talking to a technician at Bentley it became apparent that because i hadn't used the car for a couple of months over winter the battery voltage would have dropped and through safety it wouldn't operate the roof. He suggested I started the car up let it run for 10 minutes or so then try the roof operation, it worked perfectly up and down and the fault light went out as well.
So maybe try running the car and then try the boot operation and see if it sorts itself out especially if you haven't used the car regularly this may be the issue !
Good luck.
So maybe try running the car and then try the boot operation and see if it sorts itself out especially if you haven't used the car regularly this may be the issue !
Good luck.
Thank you for your advice, Gents.
I am using the car regularly but at this time of year, I have lights, heater
and demister going a lot so it could just be it needs a good charge up or a long
run without all the ancillaries switched on. I'll connect the Ctek tonight to help it along.
Failing that, I read somewhere that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can reset the electrics.
The only reason I doubt this remedy is because all the other "warning signals" like windows going
up and down unaided are all behaving themselves (at the moment).
Will keep you posted on the outcome.
I am using the car regularly but at this time of year, I have lights, heater
and demister going a lot so it could just be it needs a good charge up or a long
run without all the ancillaries switched on. I'll connect the Ctek tonight to help it along.
Failing that, I read somewhere that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can reset the electrics.
The only reason I doubt this remedy is because all the other "warning signals" like windows going
up and down unaided are all behaving themselves (at the moment).
Will keep you posted on the outcome.
goddo said:
Hi Lockhouse, could you enlarge on this?
They seem to be lubricated and are not making any noises.
My dealer made an adjustment to the boot closure mechanism. I suspect it was initially caused by squashing in luggage and forcing the boot closed with my hand. It was a five minute fixThey seem to be lubricated and are not making any noises.
Hi, I'm assuming your car is pre 15MY? The latching system changed at that point and is more tolerant of wear.
You mention getting the battery fully charged which is good, if it is low the boot can run slower than usual and the speed at which it starts the last drop to the closed position can affect the latching. First thing in the morning if the voltage is low and it’s a little cold then it is more likely to struggle
1. Lubricate and work the hinges.
Open the boot then spray around the hinge pivots with a PTFE lubricant. Quickly open and close the boot repeatedly by hand whilst spraying. This often gets the lid working again and may be enough without doing anything else.
2. Adjust the striker up a few mm and make sure it is central.
Press down the two little flaps either side of the striker so you can see the fixing bolts. Try to mark the original position then slacken them enough to move the latch. Bring the boot almost to a close and look to see if the latch is central to the striker. If not then tap if left or right. Then bring it up a couple of mm. Nip the bolts back up and check the boot function. This may change the fit of the boot very slightly, but will reduce the preload on the latch/striker when closing so it is less likely to time out and open again.Then tighten properly. Manually close the boot to rest on the flaps, the boot lid should drop into the latch and power shut with less than 2kg on the back edge of the lid if set correctly.
You can remove the plastic cover at the back of the boot to make access to the fixings easier if you wish. Take off the the two luggage tie down screwed to the rear of boot then the panel unclips.
3. Adjust hinges. Last resort.
To adjust the hinges you need to loosen the torx headed bolts holding them to the car. This really isn’t something I’d recommend for DIY as they are painted and fiddly to reach so getting the tool in properly is difficult and if they strip then they have to be drilled out. It’s also possible to completely mess up the fit of the boot to the car and not get it to function any better.
As a rule the front of the hinge (nearest the rear window) should be higher than the rear to prevent the hinge binding on itself when nearly closed. It’s possible to achieve a range of hinge positions and keep the lid in profile to the body when closed. It’s also important to keep both hinges the broadly same adjustment to avoid the lid twisting on the way down. You can also loosen the hinges on the lid itself to reduce any preload across the car in the setting, again not DIY as the boot can go completely out of profile.
As I said I’d really recommend the dealer does this as they have a setting procedure to work to and the right tools. Also they can touch the paint back in if the hinges are moved and probably replace the bolts as well.
Best of luck.
You mention getting the battery fully charged which is good, if it is low the boot can run slower than usual and the speed at which it starts the last drop to the closed position can affect the latching. First thing in the morning if the voltage is low and it’s a little cold then it is more likely to struggle
1. Lubricate and work the hinges.
Open the boot then spray around the hinge pivots with a PTFE lubricant. Quickly open and close the boot repeatedly by hand whilst spraying. This often gets the lid working again and may be enough without doing anything else.
2. Adjust the striker up a few mm and make sure it is central.
Press down the two little flaps either side of the striker so you can see the fixing bolts. Try to mark the original position then slacken them enough to move the latch. Bring the boot almost to a close and look to see if the latch is central to the striker. If not then tap if left or right. Then bring it up a couple of mm. Nip the bolts back up and check the boot function. This may change the fit of the boot very slightly, but will reduce the preload on the latch/striker when closing so it is less likely to time out and open again.Then tighten properly. Manually close the boot to rest on the flaps, the boot lid should drop into the latch and power shut with less than 2kg on the back edge of the lid if set correctly.
You can remove the plastic cover at the back of the boot to make access to the fixings easier if you wish. Take off the the two luggage tie down screwed to the rear of boot then the panel unclips.
3. Adjust hinges. Last resort.
To adjust the hinges you need to loosen the torx headed bolts holding them to the car. This really isn’t something I’d recommend for DIY as they are painted and fiddly to reach so getting the tool in properly is difficult and if they strip then they have to be drilled out. It’s also possible to completely mess up the fit of the boot to the car and not get it to function any better.
As a rule the front of the hinge (nearest the rear window) should be higher than the rear to prevent the hinge binding on itself when nearly closed. It’s possible to achieve a range of hinge positions and keep the lid in profile to the body when closed. It’s also important to keep both hinges the broadly same adjustment to avoid the lid twisting on the way down. You can also loosen the hinges on the lid itself to reduce any preload across the car in the setting, again not DIY as the boot can go completely out of profile.
As I said I’d really recommend the dealer does this as they have a setting procedure to work to and the right tools. Also they can touch the paint back in if the hinges are moved and probably replace the bolts as well.
Best of luck.
bootman3 said:
Open the boot then spray around the hinge pivots with a PTFE lubricant. QUICKLY OPEN AND CLOSE THE BOOT REPEATEDLY by hand whilst spraying. This often gets the lid working again and may be enough without doing anything else.
Hi bootman3, yes, the car is a 2006 coupe.
I don't quite understand how I can raise/lower the boot lid quickly as it is motorised?
I’m still waiting for a boot motor. 17 months now..... and no closer to getting one.
The boot didn’t work when I bought the car as Bentley approved.
I was told ‘No problem, it will be fixed under warranty’.
There’s still no stock and no supplier. Very poor and very frustrating. Can’t even get an estimated date.
Thank goodness it’s nothing critical.... it would have been off the road for 17 months!
It’s putting me of buying another Bentley.
The boot didn’t work when I bought the car as Bentley approved.
I was told ‘No problem, it will be fixed under warranty’.
There’s still no stock and no supplier. Very poor and very frustrating. Can’t even get an estimated date.
Thank goodness it’s nothing critical.... it would have been off the road for 17 months!
It’s putting me of buying another Bentley.
Hi All,
A quick update on the boot closing problem.
I took it to a Bentley specialist near me and while it was in for service, I asked them to look at the problem with the boot latching.
They immediately knew what the problem was and resulted in fitting a new hinge assembly on the offside.
That work was done approximately a year ago and the boot close has worked perfectly ever since.
I reluctantly sold the car recently, for personal reasons, and I have to say I miss the old girl, but needs must etc etc.
Good luck with solving the problems on your own cars and I hope the closing motors become available soon.
As a matter of interest, is it not possible to get the original motor overhauled. You know, like the "good old days"
when MECHANICS repaired components rather than just throw used parts away (FITTERS)?
A quick update on the boot closing problem.
I took it to a Bentley specialist near me and while it was in for service, I asked them to look at the problem with the boot latching.
They immediately knew what the problem was and resulted in fitting a new hinge assembly on the offside.
That work was done approximately a year ago and the boot close has worked perfectly ever since.
I reluctantly sold the car recently, for personal reasons, and I have to say I miss the old girl, but needs must etc etc.
Good luck with solving the problems on your own cars and I hope the closing motors become available soon.
As a matter of interest, is it not possible to get the original motor overhauled. You know, like the "good old days"
when MECHANICS repaired components rather than just throw used parts away (FITTERS)?
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