Planning to buy 20/25 and looking for tips
Discussion
Not sure if anyone out there runs this type of Rolls Royce, but I am very seriously about to acquire a later year 20/25. Is there anything particular I should be looking out for (I know - everything, it is an 80 year old vehicle....) . Almost all of these will have been restored in some way by now, at least at my affordable level. I believe the bodywork to be original and not a replacement. Overall condition looks very good indeed on my first viewing, but I shall be making a more detailed inspection later in the week
I am not particularly mechanically minded and there is a specialist involved, although acting as a broker and not on my behalf on inspection. I have had 'interesting' cars before but nothing this old or potentially expensive if I got it wrong.
Any particular tips and checks to make?
Thanks
I am not particularly mechanically minded and there is a specialist involved, although acting as a broker and not on my behalf on inspection. I have had 'interesting' cars before but nothing this old or potentially expensive if I got it wrong.
Any particular tips and checks to make?
Thanks
I am a previous owner of a 20/25 - see below (also 25/30 and 40/50). They are marvellous cars and I am sure you will enjoy owning one if you buy carefully.
They are strong and very well built cars and will survive a fair amount of neglect, but if that goes on too long, they can cost a fair bit to put right, so it is vital to have a professional inspection before you sign on the dotted line.
Unlike the chassis, bodywork came form all sorts of different places and some were better made than others. The biggest issue with bodywork is the one that may be least easy to spot: the condition of the timber frame.
As far as the engine is concerned, water temperature and oil pressure (when fully hot, i.e. after a good run at decent speeds and up a few steep hills) will be the main tell-tales of the condition of the engine.
Turning to the chassis, one of the most important indicators is the effectiveness of the one-shot central lubrication system. This can suffer from blockages and if it does, then the parts that have been deprived of lubrication will have suffered accordingly.
However, that is merely touching the surface: an expert's report (RREC or BDC can recommend someone) will be worth its weight in gold.
They are strong and very well built cars and will survive a fair amount of neglect, but if that goes on too long, they can cost a fair bit to put right, so it is vital to have a professional inspection before you sign on the dotted line.
Unlike the chassis, bodywork came form all sorts of different places and some were better made than others. The biggest issue with bodywork is the one that may be least easy to spot: the condition of the timber frame.
As far as the engine is concerned, water temperature and oil pressure (when fully hot, i.e. after a good run at decent speeds and up a few steep hills) will be the main tell-tales of the condition of the engine.
Turning to the chassis, one of the most important indicators is the effectiveness of the one-shot central lubrication system. This can suffer from blockages and if it does, then the parts that have been deprived of lubrication will have suffered accordingly.
However, that is merely touching the surface: an expert's report (RREC or BDC can recommend someone) will be worth its weight in gold.
20/25s are great cars, light and easy to drive with nice brakes and gearchange.
they have a very good spares back up and not much goes wrong with them if they are looked after, they are capable of some serious abuse from non caring owners as well!
the most important thing to look at is the cylinder head, if the outer faces are cracked (from frost damage) its a expensive and difficult repair - most people will just go for a new head, but often the block will be all bunged up with crust as well, so they tend to run a little hot on number six, this slowly burns the valves and run a bit 'chuffy'
the other thing that can tell you how good/bad the engine is, is the noise the timing gears make when the engine is running, if they are quite its good, but old, unloved sheds can howl like they have a cat trapped in the case once all the back lash has opened up
rads are expensive as well if they are blocked, but a good rad, block and head will allow an engine to give years of service - with a bit of care setting up, you can get the engines to run about about 3-400rpm ticking over
the style and condition of the body will affect the price as well
its always worth looking at what the real car co have in stock, as they find loads of good projects and seem to know what the market value of them is.
they have a very good spares back up and not much goes wrong with them if they are looked after, they are capable of some serious abuse from non caring owners as well!
the most important thing to look at is the cylinder head, if the outer faces are cracked (from frost damage) its a expensive and difficult repair - most people will just go for a new head, but often the block will be all bunged up with crust as well, so they tend to run a little hot on number six, this slowly burns the valves and run a bit 'chuffy'
the other thing that can tell you how good/bad the engine is, is the noise the timing gears make when the engine is running, if they are quite its good, but old, unloved sheds can howl like they have a cat trapped in the case once all the back lash has opened up
rads are expensive as well if they are blocked, but a good rad, block and head will allow an engine to give years of service - with a bit of care setting up, you can get the engines to run about about 3-400rpm ticking over
the style and condition of the body will affect the price as well
its always worth looking at what the real car co have in stock, as they find loads of good projects and seem to know what the market value of them is.
Only just seen this topic so sorry for the late reply. I currently run 2 20/25s, a '35 Limo and a '34 Sports Saloon. Both have bodywork by Arthur Mulliner, but this was not planned. I use both of mine, the Limo has twice driven to Le Mans (from Aberdeen, over 1k miles each way) and the SS has done it once.
Not a great deal to add to the above, though I did not bother with inspections. The Limo weeps from the cylinder head (but was priced accordingly) and has not got any worse in 4 years and 12k miles. Water is cheap!
The SS has a mind blowingly low mileage (12k when I bought it) and in 18 months I have added 4k to that.
Regular oil changes, very regular new plugs (these have a habit of sooting up but respond well to a clean and I keep a spare clean set in each car) plus a king pin on the limo basically is all the running costs. Both cars have been fitted with SS exhausts in my ownership.
THE best mod however was getting an overdrive fitted to the SS by Paynes. Now cruises happily at 55-60 and returns 17mpg, as opposed to the 15 from the Limo.
Fantastic cars, what other 30s car is affordable yet you would be happy to get into and drive 1000 miles in?
If you are anywhere near Aberdeen and you want a look or drive, just get in touch.
Not a great deal to add to the above, though I did not bother with inspections. The Limo weeps from the cylinder head (but was priced accordingly) and has not got any worse in 4 years and 12k miles. Water is cheap!
The SS has a mind blowingly low mileage (12k when I bought it) and in 18 months I have added 4k to that.
Regular oil changes, very regular new plugs (these have a habit of sooting up but respond well to a clean and I keep a spare clean set in each car) plus a king pin on the limo basically is all the running costs. Both cars have been fitted with SS exhausts in my ownership.
THE best mod however was getting an overdrive fitted to the SS by Paynes. Now cruises happily at 55-60 and returns 17mpg, as opposed to the 15 from the Limo.
Fantastic cars, what other 30s car is affordable yet you would be happy to get into and drive 1000 miles in?
If you are anywhere near Aberdeen and you want a look or drive, just get in touch.
Thanks again for the reply which provides some continued comfort. From most reports these are tough old cars and bought well give little trouble. As for Aberdeen, I could not be much further away unfortunately but the offer was kind. My planned inspection was delayed by work commitments and will now take place in January.
Bluebottle911 said:
I am a previous owner of a 20/25 - see below (also 25/30 and 40/50). They are marvellous cars and I am sure you will enjoy owning one if you buy carefully.
They are strong and very well built cars and will survive a fair amount of neglect, but if that goes on too long, they can cost a fair bit to put right, so it is vital to have a professional inspection before you sign on the dotted line.
Unlike the chassis, bodywork came form all sorts of different places and some were better made than others. The biggest issue with bodywork is the one that may be least easy to spot: the condition of the timber frame.
As far as the engine is concerned, water temperature and oil pressure (when fully hot, i.e. after a good run at decent speeds and up a few steep hills) will be the main tell-tales of the condition of the engine.
Turning to the chassis, one of the most important indicators is the effectiveness of the one-shot central lubrication system. This can suffer from blockages and if it does, then the parts that have been deprived of lubrication will have suffered accordingly.
However, that is merely touching the surface: an expert's report (RREC or BDC can recommend someone) will be worth its weight in gold.
Love the car and the colour scheme.They are strong and very well built cars and will survive a fair amount of neglect, but if that goes on too long, they can cost a fair bit to put right, so it is vital to have a professional inspection before you sign on the dotted line.
Unlike the chassis, bodywork came form all sorts of different places and some were better made than others. The biggest issue with bodywork is the one that may be least easy to spot: the condition of the timber frame.
As far as the engine is concerned, water temperature and oil pressure (when fully hot, i.e. after a good run at decent speeds and up a few steep hills) will be the main tell-tales of the condition of the engine.
Turning to the chassis, one of the most important indicators is the effectiveness of the one-shot central lubrication system. This can suffer from blockages and if it does, then the parts that have been deprived of lubrication will have suffered accordingly.
However, that is merely touching the surface: an expert's report (RREC or BDC can recommend someone) will be worth its weight in gold.
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