Pug 206 1.4 CV joints
Discussion
I`ve been working on Peugeot`s for 40yrs and never replaced a CV joint on its own. Never seen any available,always used an exchange shaft.There are different types of shafts and most do not have "knock off outer CV`s".It`s such an easy job to replace a shaft and you can get quality units for £50-£75.
Old Merc said:
I`ve been working on Peugeot`s for 40yrs and never replaced a CV joint on its own. Never seen any available,always used an exchange shaft.There are different types of shafts and most do not have "knock off outer CV`s".It`s such an easy job to replace a shaft and you can get quality units for £50-£75.
I've got the outer CVs for the shaft... SKF supply them too.Any tips on getting the bottom ball joint to split? We've been working for over an hour trying to do it and can only get it to move about half way out. No amount of hammering and levering seems to be making it go any further???
To anyone contemplating this job, think twice! It took me and a mate over 6 HOURS to change ONE CV joint. Every bit of the job was a nightmare from start to finish... OE hub nut secured by deforming the edge of it into little 'divots' in the end of the CV joint (what's wrong with threadlock and/or a split pin?!), lower ball joint a total nightmare to free from the hub (and to put back in afterwards) and the only way to remove the outer CV joint is to totally destroy the bearing cage with a lump hammer and an angle grinder, then grind off/split the inner race off the end of the drive shaft.
Edited by ian_uk1975 on Thursday 24th March 00:30
ian_uk1975 said:
To anyone contemplating this job, think twice! It took me and a mate over 6 HOURS to change ONE CV joint. Every bit of the job was a nightmare from start to finish... OE hub nut secured by deforming the edge of it into little 'divots' in the end of the CV joint (what's wrong with threadlock and/or a split pin?!), lower ball joint a total nightmare to free from the hub (and to put back in afterwards) and the only way to remove the outer CV joint is to totally destroy the bearing cage with a lump hammer and an angle grinder, then grind off/split the inner race off the end of the drive shaft.
Like I said,fit an exchange shaft and job done in 30mins.Edited by ian_uk1975 on Thursday 24th March 00:30
Old Merc said:
Like I said,fit an exchange shaft and job done in 30mins.
If you think you can jack the car, support on axle stands, remove wheel, remove hub nut, split bottom ball joint, pull the old shaft out, put the new shaft in, secure boots, re-attach bottom ball joint to hub, replace hub nut, replace wheel (torquing all nuts/bolts up to their proper values)... oh, and drain and refill the gearbox oil (and change the box oil seals) all in 30 mins from start to finish, all I can say is you've never done the job on a 206 before or you've got access to professional garage facilities with a 2/4 post lift and air tools. Even then, you'd be beating the 'book time' by quite some margin.Edited by ian_uk1975 on Thursday 24th March 17:39
doogz said:
I changed a driveshaft on a 206 in about half an hour. Not really that tricky tbh. Never drained the gear oil though. Just was quick about whipping the old shaft out and sticking the new one in. Spilled maybe 50ml of oil, stuck about the same amount back in the top. Splitting ball joints isn't hard. I used a long half inch drive extension bar, sat on a trolley jack, and propped against the lower end of the strut, adjacent to the ball joint. Taking the weight, by jacking adn compressing the strut makes it a bit easier.
Oh, and it was done on the road, outside my mates house.
The one we did must've been particularly difficult then. We've both got plenty of amateur experience of working on cars and it took us over an hour just to get the bottom ball joint shaft clear of the hub assembly. Could've done with a longer breaker bar though. Oh, and we did jack the hub up to compress the strut.Oh, and it was done on the road, outside my mates house.
ian_uk1975 said:
If you think you can jack the car, support on axle stands, remove wheel, remove hub nut, split bottom ball joint, pull the old shaft out, put the new shaft in, secure boots, re-attach bottom ball joint to hub, replace hub nut, replace wheel (torquing all nuts/bolts up to their proper values)... oh, and drain and refill the gearbox oil (and change the box oil seals) all in 30 mins from start to finish, all I can say is you've never done the job on a 206 before or you've got access to professional garage facilities with a 2/4 post lift and air tools. Even then, you'd be beating the 'book time' by quite some margin.
Its the difference with a professional and a DIY.I`ve been working on Peugeots for 40yrs and had my own Peugeot Specialist workshop for 25yrs.When I was in the Peugeot rally team we could change a gearbox by the side of the road in 45mins.I`ve often given advice here but can not understand why on some jobs I see chaps mess about all w/end etc when a small independent would charge 1HR labour to do it.I would have charged £25 + vat labour "IF" I supplied the new shaft. Edited by ian_uk1975 on Thursday 24th March 17:39
Old Merc said:
Its the difference with a professional and a DIY.I`ve been working on Peugeots for 40yrs and had my own Peugeot Specialist workshop for 25yrs.When I was in the Peugeot rally team we could change a gearbox by the side of the road in 45mins.I`ve often given advice here but can not understand why on some jobs I see chaps mess about all w/end etc when a small independent would charge 1HR labour to do it.I would have charged £25 + vat labour "IF" I supplied the new shaft.
Local Formula-1 outfit wanted £350 to change both driveshaft (incl. parts)!If you were local, you'd definitely have got the job (and a drink) for all the grief it caused me! It's all good fun though (if you're not doing it for a living).
ian_uk1975 said:
Local Formula-1 outfit wanted £350 to change both driveshaft (incl. parts)!
If you were local, you'd definitely have got the job (and a drink) for all the grief it caused me! It's all good fun though (if you're not doing it for a living).
It can be fun?If your doing it for a living and you do not enjoy your self, give up!When you are fully satisfied with the job you have done, have a happy customer who comes back regularly and recommends you to his mates AND you have made a good profit,that`s a nice feeling. If you were local, you'd definitely have got the job (and a drink) for all the grief it caused me! It's all good fun though (if you're not doing it for a living).
was intersted in the comment by old merc, about outer cv joints not been removeable. I too am a pug technician and have removed countless amounts of outer cv joints to replace cv boots,genuine replacements not stretchy type.a sharp blow with a copper mallet will remove, then squeeze the spring clip and hit back on
tibutron said:
was intersted in the comment by old merc, about outer cv joints not been removeable. I too am a pug technician and have removed countless amounts of outer cv joints to replace cv boots,genuine replacements not stretchy type.a sharp blow with a copper mallet will remove, then squeeze the spring clip and hit back on
Your correct,what I said was I`ve never REPLACED an outer CV joint on its own as It`s not worth it.Yes lots do "knock off" but lots more do not as there are different manufactures of shafts.hello everyone, I'm New here, I've owned my 206 S16 gti for a few months now, I bought it for £200 with a knackered clutch, so I bought a replacement kit and changed the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing. Yay I thought, then I drove it, uh oh, feels like the car is going to fall apart, so after reading a few people's posts I thought I'd change what they had on theirs and see what happens, so I've changed the anti roll bar bushes, top engine mount is new, bottom engine mount is new, gearbox mount is new, New top strut bearings as well, but I still have the same symptoms, when I go to pull away I get a judder feeling and vibration through the steering and a horrible grumbling noise too, I now have nearly £500 in this car after changing all the parts but only seem to have fixed the clutch, and renewed lots of parts that seem like they didn't need to be changed. Damn. So now I'm stuck? All I can think of is driveshafts, but the car does the noise and juddering in a straight line as well as if I turn the wheels, but seems worse when pulling away, if I Jack the car up and have the engine on and stick it in gear there is nothing, no noise, no judder and no vibration, so it only seems to do it once the car is on the ground and with its weight on the wheels, I'm stuck please help. It's a 2001 Y reg peugeot 206 s16 gti 136.when I got the car home I put it on my code reader and it said egr valve fault and knock sensor fault, so I took the egr valve off cleaned it up put it back and changed the knock sensor for a new one cleared the codes and now have no fault codes showing. I don't think it's on the engine, it sounds More suspension/ chassis to me but I'm not sure exactly which, the car has done 108000 miles but engine runs fine and changes gears fine too with no vibration in neutral or when revving in neutral. Hope I have given enough info for someone to help me diagnose the fault. Thanks.
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