Saxo 1.4 Timing belt change
Discussion
Help needed urgently!!
Hi all, well were do I start, basically I was told that the head gasket had gone and it had bent valve 2 and 4, this is the day after I had just got a new clutch fitted and two new pads at a great expense as well as numerous other problems I have had with the car. Anyway money was a bit tight after that so me and dad decided we would do it ourselves (I sent the head off to be refurbished) on return he said that the valves weren't bent at all but it was good to get it done for peace of mind as this is the 2nd time in two years that the head gasket has gone. He said there was a slight warp in head and he reseated all the valves basically a full refurbishment anyway me and dad are putting it back together and we have got the head torqued down but we have got to the cambelt tensioner. Basically how do i go about fitting the new tensioner what would be great would be a step by step guide to put a cambelt on with new tensioner but appreciate not everyone has got the time.
Will appreciate any help thanks!
Hi all, well were do I start, basically I was told that the head gasket had gone and it had bent valve 2 and 4, this is the day after I had just got a new clutch fitted and two new pads at a great expense as well as numerous other problems I have had with the car. Anyway money was a bit tight after that so me and dad decided we would do it ourselves (I sent the head off to be refurbished) on return he said that the valves weren't bent at all but it was good to get it done for peace of mind as this is the 2nd time in two years that the head gasket has gone. He said there was a slight warp in head and he reseated all the valves basically a full refurbishment anyway me and dad are putting it back together and we have got the head torqued down but we have got to the cambelt tensioner. Basically how do i go about fitting the new tensioner what would be great would be a step by step guide to put a cambelt on with new tensioner but appreciate not everyone has got the time.
Will appreciate any help thanks!
If you've started, I'm assuming you have the engine supported on a jack or similar with the engine mount removed and all the covers off etc? Once you've aligned the cam pulley and locked the crank at TDC (explained in Haynes, the flywheel one can be hidden under lots of crud), loosely bolt the tensioner to the block. Slip the belt over starting at the crank pulley and working your way around, trying to keep it fairly tight to the pulleys.
To adjust the tensioner, I use a sump plug key and a pair of mole grips, but there other tools you can fashion to do it. Clamp the key in the grips, insert into tensioner and using your other hand to make sure the belt stays in firm contact with the pulleys so the belt doesn't misalign it's teeth on them. Rotate the key so the tensioner rotates which will tighten the belt. Rotate it in the opposite direction to where the water pump is. Keep going until the belt can just about be twisted through 90degrees on the longest run (ie the right hand side as you're looking at it). Lock off the tensioner and remove the key. Remove your locking pins/drill bits and rotate the engine by hand to make sure no valves are touching etc. After 3 rotations try and refit the locking pins. They should re insert as easily as they removed. If they do, you've installed the cambelt. Refit all the plastic covers etc and the engine mount. Then if you're feeling brave try starting it! Thats how I do it, but it's advice only.....if you do it wrong don't blame me lol!
Loving the garage who told you a blown head gasket could bend two valves too!
To adjust the tensioner, I use a sump plug key and a pair of mole grips, but there other tools you can fashion to do it. Clamp the key in the grips, insert into tensioner and using your other hand to make sure the belt stays in firm contact with the pulleys so the belt doesn't misalign it's teeth on them. Rotate the key so the tensioner rotates which will tighten the belt. Rotate it in the opposite direction to where the water pump is. Keep going until the belt can just about be twisted through 90degrees on the longest run (ie the right hand side as you're looking at it). Lock off the tensioner and remove the key. Remove your locking pins/drill bits and rotate the engine by hand to make sure no valves are touching etc. After 3 rotations try and refit the locking pins. They should re insert as easily as they removed. If they do, you've installed the cambelt. Refit all the plastic covers etc and the engine mount. Then if you're feeling brave try starting it! Thats how I do it, but it's advice only.....if you do it wrong don't blame me lol!
Loving the garage who told you a blown head gasket could bend two valves too!
Really appreciate the help it was a good guide and we have now managed to get it on. As someone else has picked up I have not found the need to remove the engine mount as it doesn't seem to get in the way. However it might give you abit more room but there seems to be ample without touching the engine mount. Thanks for all the help!
I usually remove it and support the engine with a jack as for the two minutes it takes it makes access to belt area simply piss easy. Plus, my special tensioner adjust tool (and pair of mole grips with a drain plug key clamped inside) fouls on the chassis rail if I don't lift the engine a cm or two! Agreed, you don't have to remove it, I just do as I love easy access!
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