peugeot tuning other than ecosse?
Discussion
How much more power do you want? Anymore than 150bhp on an 8v is gonna cost a LOT, especially if you want a modicum of reliability. Whereas you can stick in a Gti-6 engine for less than £500 and you got 160+bhp as a starting pointing. You don’t need a full rebuild, just make sure that it’s been given new belts and that the ancillaries are serviced. If it goes bang, just get another for a few hundred quid.
TEKNOPUG said:
How much more power do you want? Anymore than 150bhp on an 8v is gonna cost a LOT, especially if you want a modicum of reliability. Whereas you can stick in a Gti-6 engine for less than £500 and you got 160+bhp as a starting pointing. You don’t need a full rebuild, just make sure that it’s been given new belts and that the ancillaries are serviced. If it goes bang, just get another for a few hundred quid.
Given that he's asking for someone to fit carbs I'm gonna go out on a limb and say he wouldn't be fitting the engine himself. In which case you're looking at far more than £500 to fit a 6 engine.And 6s seem to go for £600+ so hardly what I'd call a disposable item.
yes i wont be fitting them myself. I was competent enough to change the head, exhaust and cams but having read the fitting instructions for carbs and setting them up i think il be a little out of my league. As for swapping an engine over i really dont have the electrical knowhow to get that running right, if at all. I dont mind sourcing my own parts if i really need to (as i did with others) but mainly looking for someone to do the job, and do it right 1st time round.
Lol, that’ll teach me not to read the thread properly 
If the engine is NOT running carbs/TB’s already, then there is no way that it’s pushing 152bhp at the fly. Head, cams and exhaust on an 8v, 152bhp? No chance. Someone has been very generous with the transmission losses when calculating that figure. With carbs/TB’s on a decent inlet manifold, properly set up and with a matched cam to take advantage, then I would expect to see 150+bhp. You’re still looking at the same costs for all the parts and labour as a 16v conversion and it’ll be less reliable, less tractable, less powerful and have far less scope for future tuning. If you are gonna pay a professional to fit the engine then it’s gonna cost in labour but it is a very straight-forward process and I’m sure that you could find lots of people who have done this swap before who would be happy to help for a few beer tokens. The electrics have been covered many times on various forums and you can even buy plug'n'play looms now.
I’d much rather swap the engines over than start messing about with removing the head and changing the gaskets, damn snapped head bolts! I still maintain that throwing money at an 8v is the least cost-effective way of modding a 205, it just doesn’t make any financial sense.
If the engine is NOT running carbs/TB’s already, then there is no way that it’s pushing 152bhp at the fly. Head, cams and exhaust on an 8v, 152bhp? No chance. Someone has been very generous with the transmission losses when calculating that figure. With carbs/TB’s on a decent inlet manifold, properly set up and with a matched cam to take advantage, then I would expect to see 150+bhp. You’re still looking at the same costs for all the parts and labour as a 16v conversion and it’ll be less reliable, less tractable, less powerful and have far less scope for future tuning. If you are gonna pay a professional to fit the engine then it’s gonna cost in labour but it is a very straight-forward process and I’m sure that you could find lots of people who have done this swap before who would be happy to help for a few beer tokens. The electrics have been covered many times on various forums and you can even buy plug'n'play looms now.
I’d much rather swap the engines over than start messing about with removing the head and changing the gaskets, damn snapped head bolts! I still maintain that throwing money at an 8v is the least cost-effective way of modding a 205, it just doesn’t make any financial sense.
The engine had 137bhp when i first bout it and on two seperate dyno's (ecosse and dastek) it has shown 152.5 and 151 at the fly so i do think it will be around that sort of ball park. There is a set of carbs on ebay at the moment with all gubbins to go with it for £400 (granted i dont know the condition they are in). But still no one who could fit.
What other mods do you have fitted to the engine:
Cam?
Headwork – ported?
Big valves (how big)?
Skin to raise compression?
Who did the work?
Exhaust – makes little difference, very little gains to be had over OE
Cam will make a big difference to the induction method that you use.
I’d be tempted to look for a set of bodies from a Yamaha R1 – plenty of people have used these to good effect and they seem to be better priced than carbs.
Really need to get on 205gtidrivers.com and you’ll be able to have every answer you’ve ever thought of answer there (plus step by step guides and plenty of willing hands).
What were the “@ wheels” figures that were actually measured from you dyno runs?
Carbs are generally worth around 10-15% on the 8v’s (depending on the spec of the rest of the engine). You do have to keep on top of them though as they easily go out of tune. Sound great though
Cam?
Headwork – ported?
Big valves (how big)?
Skin to raise compression?
Who did the work?
Exhaust – makes little difference, very little gains to be had over OE
Cam will make a big difference to the induction method that you use.
I’d be tempted to look for a set of bodies from a Yamaha R1 – plenty of people have used these to good effect and they seem to be better priced than carbs.
Really need to get on 205gtidrivers.com and you’ll be able to have every answer you’ve ever thought of answer there (plus step by step guides and plenty of willing hands).
What were the “@ wheels” figures that were actually measured from you dyno runs?
Carbs are generally worth around 10-15% on the 8v’s (depending on the spec of the rest of the engine). You do have to keep on top of them though as they easily go out of tune. Sound great though
Best exhaust is the std 1.9 one. But make sure it is a gen Pug one rather than a quik-fit special.
Head... big valves, fully polished, ported, etc.
Cam.... obviously
Carbs... twin 45's for me
Engine... fully rebuilt 1.9 GTI-S spec
Other:-
Oil Cooler
Quickshift
Quaife LSD
SBC Phase 1 and 2 suspension, new bushes throughout
Upgraded brakes
Rebuilt rear beam
and loads of other stuff I can't even remember.
Not sure on exact power, but in the real world it slaughters Clio 182's, 306 GTI-6's, 206 GTI 180's, etc. The thing to remember is that power does not necessary equate to speed. Things like the Quaife LSD make no difference to power output, yet make the car dramatically quicker in the right environment. In my opinion, I wouldn't necessarily take notice of any quoted power output figures, its the complete spec that matters.
Head... big valves, fully polished, ported, etc.
Cam.... obviously
Carbs... twin 45's for me
Engine... fully rebuilt 1.9 GTI-S spec
Other:-
Oil Cooler
Quickshift
Quaife LSD
SBC Phase 1 and 2 suspension, new bushes throughout
Upgraded brakes
Rebuilt rear beam
and loads of other stuff I can't even remember.
Not sure on exact power, but in the real world it slaughters Clio 182's, 306 GTI-6's, 206 GTI 180's, etc. The thing to remember is that power does not necessary equate to speed. Things like the Quaife LSD make no difference to power output, yet make the car dramatically quicker in the right environment. In my opinion, I wouldn't necessarily take notice of any quoted power output figures, its the complete spec that matters.
FactoryPilot said:
Best exhaust is the std 1.9 one. But make sure it is a gen Pug one rather than a quik-fit special.
Head... big valves, fully polished, ported, etc.
Cam.... obviously
Carbs... twin 45's for me
Engine... fully rebuilt 1.9 GTI-S spec
Other:-
Oil Cooler
Quickshift
Quaife LSD
SBC Phase 1 and 2 suspension, new bushes throughout
Upgraded brakes
Rebuilt rear beam
and loads of other stuff I can't even remember.
Not sure on exact power, but in the real world it slaughters Clio 182's, 306 GTI-6's, 206 GTI 180's, etc. The thing to remember is that power does not necessary equate to speed. Things like the Quaife LSD make no difference to power output, yet make the car dramatically quicker in the right environment. In my opinion, I wouldn't necessarily take notice of any quoted power output figures, its the complete spec that matters.
lol! I was referring to the OP! Sounds like a nice spec though. I ran a Quaife on my TT, great bit of kit.Head... big valves, fully polished, ported, etc.
Cam.... obviously
Carbs... twin 45's for me
Engine... fully rebuilt 1.9 GTI-S spec
Other:-
Oil Cooler
Quickshift
Quaife LSD
SBC Phase 1 and 2 suspension, new bushes throughout
Upgraded brakes
Rebuilt rear beam
and loads of other stuff I can't even remember.
Not sure on exact power, but in the real world it slaughters Clio 182's, 306 GTI-6's, 206 GTI 180's, etc. The thing to remember is that power does not necessary equate to speed. Things like the Quaife LSD make no difference to power output, yet make the car dramatically quicker in the right environment. In my opinion, I wouldn't necessarily take notice of any quoted power output figures, its the complete spec that matters.
TEKNOPUG said:
What other mods do you have fitted to the engine:
Cam?
Headwork – ported?
Big valves (how big)?
Skin to raise compression?
Who did the work?
Exhaust – makes little difference, very little gains to be had over OE
Cam will make a big difference to the induction method that you use.
I’d be tempted to look for a set of bodies from a Yamaha R1 – plenty of people have used these to good effect and they seem to be better priced than carbs.
Really need to get on 205gtidrivers.com and you’ll be able to have every answer you’ve ever thought of answer there (plus step by step guides and plenty of willing hands).
What were the “@ wheels” figures that were actually measured from you dyno runs?
Carbs are generally worth around 10-15% on the 8v’s (depending on the spec of the rest of the engine). You do have to keep on top of them though as they easily go out of tune. Sound great though
Yes has a 285 degree cam (if i remember right), head work from hiflow (stage 3 head) moved the air filter to the front of the engine bay. The engine itself has about 12k on it now since rebuild. So i thought carbs/TB's would be the next step. Had considered bike carbs but trying to find an inlet to match has seemed pretty fruitless so far.Cam?
Headwork – ported?
Big valves (how big)?
Skin to raise compression?
Who did the work?
Exhaust – makes little difference, very little gains to be had over OE
Cam will make a big difference to the induction method that you use.
I’d be tempted to look for a set of bodies from a Yamaha R1 – plenty of people have used these to good effect and they seem to be better priced than carbs.
Really need to get on 205gtidrivers.com and you’ll be able to have every answer you’ve ever thought of answer there (plus step by step guides and plenty of willing hands).
What were the “@ wheels” figures that were actually measured from you dyno runs?
Carbs are generally worth around 10-15% on the 8v’s (depending on the spec of the rest of the engine). You do have to keep on top of them though as they easily go out of tune. Sound great though
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