Tips on buying a 106 GTI
Discussion
have a look at the 106 Rallye Register's guide to buying a rallye... a lot of the things should carry over to a GTi 
http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2008/index.php?...
http://www.106rallyeforum.com/forum2008/index.php?...
All the usuall rules of checking a used car apply, but specifically for a 106 gti i'd say to check the following:
1) Check for any mayo in the oil or the engine fan wired to a switch or on perminant (sign of head gasket going or gone).
2) Check the camber of the rear wheels, if showing excessive negative camber it may mean the trailing arm bearings are worn, this can be a nuisnace and expensive fix.
3) Check the gearbox for any noises, whining diff etc. Gearboxes seam to be a bit of a weak spot in my personal experiences.
4) Check all the electrical systems work, including lights and engine sensors, etc. Being french its probably gonna go wrong at some point lol.
5) Try and avoid cars fitted with -2000000mm front springs and a rear beam sat on the bump stops. Along with those fitted with lex-arse lights and halfrauds induction kits.
I'd look around on forums for more specific in formation, i'm sure there are alot of people who know alot more than me. In my experience the GTi is a great, fun car. Just try not to buy one that has been ragged around by some young pup on daddy's insurance.
1) Check for any mayo in the oil or the engine fan wired to a switch or on perminant (sign of head gasket going or gone).
2) Check the camber of the rear wheels, if showing excessive negative camber it may mean the trailing arm bearings are worn, this can be a nuisnace and expensive fix.
3) Check the gearbox for any noises, whining diff etc. Gearboxes seam to be a bit of a weak spot in my personal experiences.
4) Check all the electrical systems work, including lights and engine sensors, etc. Being french its probably gonna go wrong at some point lol.
5) Try and avoid cars fitted with -2000000mm front springs and a rear beam sat on the bump stops. Along with those fitted with lex-arse lights and halfrauds induction kits.
I'd look around on forums for more specific in formation, i'm sure there are alot of people who know alot more than me. In my experience the GTi is a great, fun car. Just try not to buy one that has been ragged around by some young pup on daddy's insurance.
People will tell you peugeots don't rust but they do. Check under the boot floor and where the boot floor meets the wheel arches. Also check the carpets aren't damp as sometimes the bungs in the floor come out and they start taking on water like the titanic.
Most cars have a few knocks and rattles. If it knocks going over bumps it'll be a worn bush in the suspension somewhere which isn't too expensive to cure. a continuous knocking while turning is a driveshaft gone which is a couple of hundred quid. any knocks from the back normally mean trouble as the rear beams are hard to repair and relatively expensive to replace.
The gear shift will be a bit sloppy but you have to live with that. Avoid cars on anything bigger than the standard 14" wheels if you can. 15's aren't too bad but generally the bigger the wheels, the worse the handling and ride. I'd avoid lowered cars altogether unless they can prove the rear was lowered by a pug specialist. If anyone mentions 'lowered (insert number) notches' then walk away as the 'notches' method generally means trouble with the rear beam.
Engines are pretty reliable and don't seem to mind being driven hard as long as they are serviced regularly. Make sure the cambelt has been done when required. Check that it idles nicely at 1000rpm when warm and doesn't stall when you dip the clutch coming up to traffic lights, roundabouts etc. If it does the idle control valve is faulty and needs cleaning or replacing.
It should pull cleanly to the 7,300rpm limit, with a noticeable pickup in performance from 5000rpm, pulling harder and harder as it gets to near the red line. Any flat spots are notoriously hard to cure as there is a myriad of sensors that may be at fault.
That's mostly everything. There where no significant changes in the model from when it was first introduced other than later models getting a digital dash (odometer is LCD rather than rotating numbers).
Most cars have a few knocks and rattles. If it knocks going over bumps it'll be a worn bush in the suspension somewhere which isn't too expensive to cure. a continuous knocking while turning is a driveshaft gone which is a couple of hundred quid. any knocks from the back normally mean trouble as the rear beams are hard to repair and relatively expensive to replace.
The gear shift will be a bit sloppy but you have to live with that. Avoid cars on anything bigger than the standard 14" wheels if you can. 15's aren't too bad but generally the bigger the wheels, the worse the handling and ride. I'd avoid lowered cars altogether unless they can prove the rear was lowered by a pug specialist. If anyone mentions 'lowered (insert number) notches' then walk away as the 'notches' method generally means trouble with the rear beam.
Engines are pretty reliable and don't seem to mind being driven hard as long as they are serviced regularly. Make sure the cambelt has been done when required. Check that it idles nicely at 1000rpm when warm and doesn't stall when you dip the clutch coming up to traffic lights, roundabouts etc. If it does the idle control valve is faulty and needs cleaning or replacing.
It should pull cleanly to the 7,300rpm limit, with a noticeable pickup in performance from 5000rpm, pulling harder and harder as it gets to near the red line. Any flat spots are notoriously hard to cure as there is a myriad of sensors that may be at fault.
That's mostly everything. There where no significant changes in the model from when it was first introduced other than later models getting a digital dash (odometer is LCD rather than rotating numbers).
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