Running costs of 306 GTI-6
Discussion
As some of you may remember from my post about 309 GTIs and 306 XSIs a few weeks ago, I'm (still) thinking about getting a fast pug. However, the harder I look the more options I find and basically I've now realised I can afford to purchase and insure 306 GTI-6 which I would like very much!
What I really want to know is what the day to day running costs are like e.g. realistic fuel consumption figures for 'spirited' driving, parts that are known to wear out quicker than usual, likely mechanical failures etc.
What parts of the GTI-6 aren't common with other 306s? Is the suspension the same as the XSI and D-turbo? Are any bits notoriously expensive to repair?
Most of the examples I can afford (under £2.5k) have done over 100k miles, is this likely to be an issuse? My annual milage should be down to around 12k now thanks to trading in the girlfriend for a more local model (risky business in norfolk!).
Sorry to bombard you all with questions but I want to do a bit of researching before I take the plunge so I (hopefully) don't end up with a nail!
oh, and I'm already browsing the 306 GTI-6 and rallye website before you all recommend it! Just thought I'd tap into the fountain of uneffable wisdom that is pistonheads for some balance!
What I really want to know is what the day to day running costs are like e.g. realistic fuel consumption figures for 'spirited' driving, parts that are known to wear out quicker than usual, likely mechanical failures etc.
What parts of the GTI-6 aren't common with other 306s? Is the suspension the same as the XSI and D-turbo? Are any bits notoriously expensive to repair?
Most of the examples I can afford (under £2.5k) have done over 100k miles, is this likely to be an issuse? My annual milage should be down to around 12k now thanks to trading in the girlfriend for a more local model (risky business in norfolk!).
Sorry to bombard you all with questions but I want to do a bit of researching before I take the plunge so I (hopefully) don't end up with a nail!
oh, and I'm already browsing the 306 GTI-6 and rallye website before you all recommend it! Just thought I'd tap into the fountain of uneffable wisdom that is pistonheads for some balance!
I ran one for 2 years and about 20k miles. Only unexpected bills were:
- Exhaust system and cat'; former a bit rusty, latter disintegrated! ~£400 fitted
- MAF sensor that was causing it to cut out from time-to-time ~£200 fitted
Can't recommend the GTi-6 enough, just a phenomenal piece of kit. I drove it bloody hard but it never once let me down. Still don't know why I sold it, because in hindsight there was no need. Some of the history is in my profile.
- Exhaust system and cat'; former a bit rusty, latter disintegrated! ~£400 fitted
- MAF sensor that was causing it to cut out from time-to-time ~£200 fitted
Can't recommend the GTi-6 enough, just a phenomenal piece of kit. I drove it bloody hard but it never once let me down. Still don't know why I sold it, because in hindsight there was no need. Some of the history is in my profile.
I got a Xantia activa with a petrol turbo motor and that has done 175k so your should be good for another 10 years!!!
I don't know what parts are interchangeable, but they can't be rarer than mine and they really don't cost that much from either Pug direct or Eurocarparts, and it's going to cost FAR less to run than anything German.
Have a quick look on Ebay and see if there are any parts for sale on there, that's always a good place to look for things that commonly go wrong!
I don't know what parts are interchangeable, but they can't be rarer than mine and they really don't cost that much from either Pug direct or Eurocarparts, and it's going to cost FAR less to run than anything German.
Have a quick look on Ebay and see if there are any parts for sale on there, that's always a good place to look for things that commonly go wrong!
A few more recollections - If you're looking at a 100k+ mile example it'll likely need new dampers. Mine was getting a bit too loose at the back end by then. Obvious further advice is to make sure the cambelt has been changed recently (Peugeot main dealers put a sticker on the driver's side door frame when they change it).
Other things: the gear shift should be smooth and fluid in all gears - if it baulks or feels notchy then it'll need new sychros. 1st and 2nd seem prone to this. The clutch is quite heavy in operation but although its pretty durable, bearing in mind how these cars are usually driven, it's likely to be approaching the end of its life by 100k.
When you drive it, look for a down hill corner - as you brake for it, watch out for a sudden weight shift forward. If it does this then it needs new engine mounting bushes. Not an expensive job, but fiddly (you need to jack the engine).
This should be taken as hearsay as I don't modify cars as a rule, but I'd be tempted to avoid aftermarket induction kits, especially "Viper" ones. IIRC cars with these modifications are essentially unable to wade even shallow water as the intake sucks air (and indeed water) up from very close to the road.
On the body work, ensure that the "hockey stick" trim under the front lights is well secured - common for them to come loose. Also check underneath to see if the engine undertray is in place - its just a piece of cardboard but its flippin' expensive!
That's all for now...
Other things: the gear shift should be smooth and fluid in all gears - if it baulks or feels notchy then it'll need new sychros. 1st and 2nd seem prone to this. The clutch is quite heavy in operation but although its pretty durable, bearing in mind how these cars are usually driven, it's likely to be approaching the end of its life by 100k.
When you drive it, look for a down hill corner - as you brake for it, watch out for a sudden weight shift forward. If it does this then it needs new engine mounting bushes. Not an expensive job, but fiddly (you need to jack the engine).
This should be taken as hearsay as I don't modify cars as a rule, but I'd be tempted to avoid aftermarket induction kits, especially "Viper" ones. IIRC cars with these modifications are essentially unable to wade even shallow water as the intake sucks air (and indeed water) up from very close to the road.
On the body work, ensure that the "hockey stick" trim under the front lights is well secured - common for them to come loose. Also check underneath to see if the engine undertray is in place - its just a piece of cardboard but its flippin' expensive!
That's all for now...
busta said:
mattiselvis said:
A great deal of interesting stuff!
Thanks Matt, that all sounds well worth knowing!
I've read on the GTI-6 forums about lots of cars suffering from stalling, linked to the throttle position sensor amongst other things. Do you know if this is a very common problem?
Mine did have a stalling problem, but not caused by the throttle sensor. The symptoms were an intermittent, lumpy, fast idle at traffic lights and when standing in traffic. The revs would rise then suddenly drop off, requiring a prod of the throttle to prevent stalling. I learnt to live with it, but the car failed its MOT on emissions that year, leading to the MAF being replaced. This also cured the over-revving issue.
I get the impression that the MAF failure is a relatively common fault, but I think this is more due to the high mileages that many cars have now reached. That said, It cost me £200 for a Bosch MAF sensor (installed) and the MOT re-test, so the fix isn't vastly expensive. If you're mechanically-minded then I'm told that the part is easy to install.
I've no experience with the stepper motor issue I'm afraid, but PHer "Mr Whippy" is very knowledgeable about all things GTi-6, so may be able to advise...
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