205 GTI - poss purchase but questions ?
Discussion
Looking at a potential 1.9 GTI that needs some work - mainly cosmetic. However, there are two elements that concern me. I have joined 205gtidrivers forum but are waiting for approval before I can post there.
Two issues are :
Above each of the read windows, there is a split between the side seem and roof and it looks like filler. I understand this can be caused by accident or seized suspension. Anyone had experience of this. If you fill it, does it keep reopening ?
Car in question has sat on someones drive for 3 years and looks very sorry, but we managed to start it first time with a spare battery and turning it to get the oil circed.
Oil was low which we topped up, however, the oil pressure gauge and oil temp gauge on the dash never moved. I wonder if there's just prob with the gauges as I can't see both being that bad. Also - engine sounded ok (no gaurantee I know)
Any thoughts on these issues ?
Not too sure on the engine questions - maybe the sensors are duff or the contacts are dirty? You could try cleaning them off and trying again?
Re: the bodywork - they all tend to do that, so its not necessarily indication of a smash. The filled seams top and bottom behind the doors will crack with age, and i don't think there is a lot you can do. Maybe re-filling it could sort it, I don't know. A good check whether the car has been in an accident is to look at the colour of the slam panel. They were all grey (i think) as standard, so if its body coloured then someone has been messing around.
Re: the bodywork - they all tend to do that, so its not necessarily indication of a smash. The filled seams top and bottom behind the doors will crack with age, and i don't think there is a lot you can do. Maybe re-filling it could sort it, I don't know. A good check whether the car has been in an accident is to look at the colour of the slam panel. They were all grey (i think) as standard, so if its body coloured then someone has been messing around.
Cracks above the rear windows are normal, it's just sealer/paint moving with body stress! Nothing to worry about some of them are worse than others. Mines had cracks for years, body is galvanised so would worry too much about that.
The oil pressure gauge once warm should read roughly in the middle and the oil temp should be around the first line rising to around the 2 after a good thrash. Bear in mind that these gauges aren't spot on accurate. These can take a while to move, if they aren't doing anything they either need a clean or you need to clean up the brown multiplug (search for this on 205GTIdrivers)
With the oil pressure, you only should show signs of concern when the red light comes on with the engine running.
EDIT: Slam panels were grey and AFAIK after around 1991 were black!
The oil pressure gauge once warm should read roughly in the middle and the oil temp should be around the first line rising to around the 2 after a good thrash. Bear in mind that these gauges aren't spot on accurate. These can take a while to move, if they aren't doing anything they either need a clean or you need to clean up the brown multiplug (search for this on 205GTIdrivers)
With the oil pressure, you only should show signs of concern when the red light comes on with the engine running.
EDIT: Slam panels were grey and AFAIK after around 1991 were black!
Edited by simes205 on Friday 13th October 08:26
windsorrob said:
Thanks for the great info. Might be a basic question, but what / where exactly is the slam panel. I've a lot to learn - to this point having only driven cars, not fixed ormessed with them !!
This will be the first project.
It's the panel across the front of the engine bay that the bonnet latch is mounted to.
The slam panel is the bit that goes accross the top of the radiator, the bonnet catch secures in the middle.
If its stood for 3 years the rear beam is 99% sure to be seized. It might also be worth checking the brakes don't bind.
The bit of the gearbox that sits above the oil may also have corroded. It would be worth changing the oil after the first run.
Cambelt is also likely to be week, having sat in the same position for so long.
Good running cars are cheap so unless this is more or less free it might be worth looking elsewhere.
Thanks. Is there an easy way to check the rear beam ?
The thing that appeals on this car is the project aspect, plus it's 100% original and standard. I'd be looking to pay no more than £200. Know what you mean though about running cars being cheap anyway and I don't want to get into major issues with this car.
windsorrob said:
Thanks. Is there an easy way to check the rear beam ?
The rear wheels will look like this / from the rear rather than more or less straight.
Sit in the boot and bounce around, any creaking is bad.
Jack it up and check that each side drops equally.
Even if it looks OK standing really does them no favours and I would not be surprised if is gives up soon after.
Its not the end of the world to fix though. If you can get a refurbed beam fitting is DIY if you are game.
It would be worth running it up to temp and checking the heater matrix is OK (that is a bit of a pain to change).
Thanks. Have run it to temp and the heater was fine along with all other elecs.
I have a feeling they may have given it the odd run to stop to much mechanical deteriation.
The thing I like, is that while it looks really sorry for itself, I think (probably regret saying this !) that the structure and mechanics are pretty good. It's a 1992 1.9, Miami blue, no sunroof model. All paperwork, inc service history and 72k miles, that I've no reason to disbeleive. Friend of mine has known the car for many years.
I have a feeling they may have given it the odd run to stop to much mechanical deteriation.
The thing I like, is that while it looks really sorry for itself, I think (probably regret saying this !) that the structure and mechanics are pretty good. It's a 1992 1.9, Miami blue, no sunroof model. All paperwork, inc service history and 72k miles, that I've no reason to disbeleive. Friend of mine has known the car for many years.
Check the front chassis legs around the top engine mount and opposite battery area. These rust badly on cars 91-93.
Budget for around £180 in parts alone for the rear beam should it be very knackered. As mentioned it will rear wheels from behind will look like this / .
Regardless it sounds like a good project and will be very rewarding to drive
: (says someone who can afford much more but still chooses to drive his!)
Once you're up and running on 'drivers' you'll realise how many people there are who'll help you out.
Budget for around £180 in parts alone for the rear beam should it be very knackered. As mentioned it will rear wheels from behind will look like this / .
Regardless it sounds like a good project and will be very rewarding to drive
: (says someone who can afford much more but still chooses to drive his!) Once you're up and running on 'drivers' you'll realise how many people there are who'll help you out.
Edited by simes205 on Friday 13th October 18:30
wrt rear beam, assume it requires work. They all do regardless of whether they show the terminal signs of rear camber or bad creaking. If you wait for these signs then it gets even more expensive to repair as this means the bearings have self destructed and are wearing big grooves in the beam!
Taking them off is a doddle and there are people on 205GTiDrivers who will do the work for a reasnoable price if you don't fancy following the guide provided on the site.
Rob
Taking them off is a doddle and there are people on 205GTiDrivers who will do the work for a reasnoable price if you don't fancy following the guide provided on the site.
Rob
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