Clio 3.0 V6 MKII
Discussion
Taking a trip to www.v6clio.net would be worthwhile.
But to summarise; running costs are fairly reasonable (expect circa £180 every 12,000 mile service). Rear tyres last between 7k and 12k miles depending on right foot. MPG could be up to 30mpg on M/Way down to 10/11 on a track day. It probably wont use any oil in between services. Brake pads are viciously expensive from Renault but EBC and Ferodo both make better and far cheaper alternatives. Tyre choice becomes a matter of personal opinion but you don't need to run it on PS2s to get the best out of it.
As for modifications - well most people do the standard things; backbox and induction kit and these will make the car sound better but be wary of anyone who reckons they've liberated another 25bhp by this alone.
More power is available but it's not cheap; there is "expertise/experience" in forced induction, ITBs and dare I mention it -> NOS.
You can get better suspension from KW and Leda (I've no personal experience of Leda but the KW Variant 3 stuff is very good but not cheap).
There are good independents out there who do know about these cars and how to maintain them, set them up and modify them.
But to summarise; running costs are fairly reasonable (expect circa £180 every 12,000 mile service). Rear tyres last between 7k and 12k miles depending on right foot. MPG could be up to 30mpg on M/Way down to 10/11 on a track day. It probably wont use any oil in between services. Brake pads are viciously expensive from Renault but EBC and Ferodo both make better and far cheaper alternatives. Tyre choice becomes a matter of personal opinion but you don't need to run it on PS2s to get the best out of it.
As for modifications - well most people do the standard things; backbox and induction kit and these will make the car sound better but be wary of anyone who reckons they've liberated another 25bhp by this alone.
More power is available but it's not cheap; there is "expertise/experience" in forced induction, ITBs and dare I mention it -> NOS.
You can get better suspension from KW and Leda (I've no personal experience of Leda but the KW Variant 3 stuff is very good but not cheap).
There are good independents out there who do know about these cars and how to maintain them, set them up and modify them.
Power gain from a remap is difficult to quantify because it depends on what you do so...
Superchips reckon that their off the shelf remap will add something like 10bhp or so and that's about the most you can expect for a non specific/generic remap. Remember this type of remap doesn't exploit any modifications as such (for example better breathing or exhaust)
Next up is the piggy back devices - these sit on top of (literally in some cases) the existing ECU and are typically mapped with the car on a rolling road. They allow the mapping to take account of modifications and indeed any of the subtle differences that occurr in any engine.
Finally there is the full ECU replacement route; People have gone for MOTEC, KMS and I think Pectel. Typically you are looking at a) lots of money for a custom loom and b) lots of money for the eletronics and then c) lots of money for the mapping but...Unquestionably these will give you the most power gain on the standard engine but crucially will ensure that any future modifications can be handled for example ITBs or forced induction.
Personally (and this is just my own opinion!) I would get the car and learn about it's foibles first. Adding power is lots of money and to be honest you will get better "bang for your buck" sorting out some of the handling issues first (look into 3rd party coil-overs and changing the geometry).
It's also probably worth mentioning that if you really want to make the car quicker and you can compromise then removing weight from it is the cheapest and one of the most effective things you can do.
Superchips reckon that their off the shelf remap will add something like 10bhp or so and that's about the most you can expect for a non specific/generic remap. Remember this type of remap doesn't exploit any modifications as such (for example better breathing or exhaust)
Next up is the piggy back devices - these sit on top of (literally in some cases) the existing ECU and are typically mapped with the car on a rolling road. They allow the mapping to take account of modifications and indeed any of the subtle differences that occurr in any engine.
Finally there is the full ECU replacement route; People have gone for MOTEC, KMS and I think Pectel. Typically you are looking at a) lots of money for a custom loom and b) lots of money for the eletronics and then c) lots of money for the mapping but...Unquestionably these will give you the most power gain on the standard engine but crucially will ensure that any future modifications can be handled for example ITBs or forced induction.
Personally (and this is just my own opinion!) I would get the car and learn about it's foibles first. Adding power is lots of money and to be honest you will get better "bang for your buck" sorting out some of the handling issues first (look into 3rd party coil-overs and changing the geometry).
It's also probably worth mentioning that if you really want to make the car quicker and you can compromise then removing weight from it is the cheapest and one of the most effective things you can do.
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