Oops, I think I've just bought a 306 XSi

[Chris71]

I'd sworn not to buy any more cars after straying into my overdraft last month. But a mate of mine is looking to get his 65,000-mile Phase 2 Peugeot 306 XSi and was being offered silly money by the dealers. I offered to match what they were paying and, erm, I think we've just struck up a deal.

Before would probably have been a better time to ask this, but is there anything about them I should know? Easy to work on? Any common issues?

The plan is to use it for some autosolos with the local motor club, so I was thinking some decent front tyres and stick with whatever is currently on the rear.

[blueg33]

Surely decent rear tyres rather than fronts. Unless you want the back trying to overtake the front.

[Chris71]

blueg33 said:

Surely decent rear tyres rather than fronts. Unless you want the back trying to overtake the front.

That's exactly what I want. It's for autotest competitions, so it's that or a very effective handbrake ... which I gather isn't a 306 strong point?

[blueg33]

Ok that makes sense.

[StoatInACoat]

Good cars 306's. Check for rust inside rear quarter panels, collapsing rear axle/trailing arm bearings and general front suspension knocks. Easy to work on and parts certainly used to be cheap but there aren't that many around now.

Usually tough cars even if they've been neglected. Rear brakes are crap and you'll probably find at last one (usually nearside) rear calliper is starting to seize. If it hasn't been left like that for too long they can be rebuilt easily and from memory replacing discs, pads and cables on the rear with decent stuff comes to about £70 in parts.

[Old Merc]

The 06 range were the last of the Real Peugeot`s,and the XU10J4 engine was one of the best engines Peugeot made.Just make sure the cambelt has been replaced.
The 306 is a cracking little car, BUT, its getting old,so just go through all the "old age" stuff.

[silverthorn2151]

I had a 306 cabriolet for a number of years which I loved to bits.

There are some very good 306 forums for specialist advice.

[Chris71]

Picking it up on Saturday. The current owner has even given it a wash for me!



I've vowed to do everything DIY on this car. I daren't take on big jobs with my daily driver, but this 306 currently owes me £100, so it's not the end of the world if I end up doing something stupid. First one is likely to be a cambelt change. Any tips?

Also, with that in mind, can anyone recommend a good forum for technical advice on this car/engine?

[Old Merc]

[quote=Chris71
I've vowed to do everything DIY on this car. I daren't take on big jobs with my daily driver, but this 306 currently owes me £100, so it's not the end of the world if I end up doing something stupid. First one is likely to be a cambelt change. Any tips?

Also, with that in mind, can anyone recommend a good forum for technical advice on this car/engine?
[/quote]

At that age I would definitely advise a complete cambelt kit. that is water pump,tensioner pulley etc. Read up on the procedure,its not that bad a job, naturally its very important that all the locking pins are in place. Beware !! make sure the main crankshaft pulley has not moved with age. Its difficult to explain here,the pulley has a rubber damper middle, the outer part,(WITH THE TIMING PIN HOLE) can move,so the cam timing will be wrong. Any doubt on that pulley fit a new one.

Edited by Old Merc on Monday 9th April 13:13

[StoatInACoat]

Should be 16v engine in that so the process is more or less the same

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=406...

[Chris71]

StoatInACoat said:

Should be 16v engine in that so the process is more or less the same

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=406...

Thanks. Yeah, I was getting a bit confused - sounds like every ph2 XSi was 16-valve? I've searched for timing belt and water pump kits and they all seem to list:

2.0 XSi at 121 bhp - which I assume is the 8v engine, even though they list it right until 2001?
2.0 16v at 132 bhp - ??
2.0 16v at 135 bhp - ??

I presume I want the last one (assuming it even makes any difference)?

[StoatInACoat]

Indeed. Phase 1 1.8 and 2.0 was 8v up to 1998 I think? Not fantastic engines and a bit wheezy. Phase 2 and 3 had the 16v identifiable by the plastic "bunch of bananas" inlet manifold and are a lot nicer. I believe the phase 2 and 3 cambelt setups are the same and you should change the aux and tensioner at the same time but it's a long time since I was involved in 306's so I would get conformation! Water pump is cambelt driven and should definitely be changed and your aux setup will depend on whether you have A/C or not. Popular modification used to be an A/C delete using a rallye setup as it never works anyway.

130ish BHP rings a bell.

Edited by StoatInACoat on Monday 9th April 15:31

Edited by StoatInACoat on Monday 9th April 15:31

[Old Merc]

Chris, your 306 should have RFV in the vin number and the engine is a 2ltr XU10J4 twin cam. If you give the reg` number to people like GSF and Euro they will come up with the correct kit. Make sure its a Gates or Dayco product.



Not very good images but you may understand what I`m trying to explain about the crank pulley. I`ve seen a few guys mess up the cam timing due to the outer bit,with the timing hole, moving on the rubber bonding.

[Old Merc]

[StoatInACoat]

If you're not planning to do the belt for a bit, draw a line through the crank pulley with tippex. If your lines don't match up after a week then the pulley is shot.

Happens on Renault engines as well and was £90 for a new one on my Clio

[Old Merc]

Good idea.

Back in my Peugeot days I used to keep a spare pulley on the shelf for checking. Almost every one we did had moved. Also on one occasion we got hold of a brand new cheep Ebay pulley and the timing hole was in the wrong place!!! So,as always,make sure you fit top quality O/E parts.

[Chris71]

I gather you need some special tools - one to lock the camshaft and one to adjust the tensioner?

I'm mechanically clueless, but my dad's got a lathe, milling machine etc. so I figured he could probably make something up if necessary.

[Old Merc]

Chris71 said:

I gather you need some special tools - one to lock the camshaft and one to adjust the tensioner?

I'm mechanically clueless, but my dad's got a lathe, milling machine etc. so I figured he could probably make something up if necessary.

Please don`t take offence........... if you think your mechanically clueless do you really want to attempt this cambelt job?? one wrong move and you have 16 bent valves.

By the way the "special tools" are three locking pins,one each for the two cams and one for the crank pulley. Anything will do,bolts,drill bits etc, as long as they are the correct diameter and fit the holes,or your Dad could make them up in no time? All you need for the tensioner is the correct size allen key.

[tonyb1968]

Chris71 said:

StoatInACoat said:

Should be 16v engine in that so the process is more or less the same

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=406...

Thanks. Yeah, I was getting a bit confused - sounds like every ph2 XSi was 16-valve? I've searched for timing belt and water pump kits and they all seem to list:

2.0 XSi at 121 bhp - which I assume is the 8v engine, even though they list it right until 2001?
2.0 16v at 132 bhp - ??
2.0 16v at 135 bhp - ??

I presume I want the last one (assuming it even makes any difference)?

Pretty close, phase 1 2ltr 8v was 123bhp (125ps), phase 2 (97 onwards) was 135bhp.
Phase 1 sedan ST (same 2ltr 8v engine as the xsi) had slightly less power at 121bhp.