Renault Clio 197 overcooling problem
Discussion
Hi,
Recently bought a 2007 Clio 197 - lovely car and wouldn't change it for anything (although I would make it slightly more fuel efficient)
Only small issue is that the car does not get up to temperature when being driving at 25+MPH and sits just on the first needle (it should be 3rd). However, as soon as you sit still in traffic for 5-10 minutes going under 15MPH the needles rises to where it should be and stays there perfectly. When I got the car it had NO radiator fluid in, since topping it up it has only gone down a tiny bit in 3 weeks which I guess is normal if it was completely empty.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Recently bought a 2007 Clio 197 - lovely car and wouldn't change it for anything (although I would make it slightly more fuel efficient)
Only small issue is that the car does not get up to temperature when being driving at 25+MPH and sits just on the first needle (it should be 3rd). However, as soon as you sit still in traffic for 5-10 minutes going under 15MPH the needles rises to where it should be and stays there perfectly. When I got the car it had NO radiator fluid in, since topping it up it has only gone down a tiny bit in 3 weeks which I guess is normal if it was completely empty.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like you have a knackered thermostat and/or a leak. Check thermostat housing for signs of white deposits and the radiator for damp patches. Take undertray off and park over a sheet of cardboard overnight to see if it leaks anywhere.
When my 172 was losing coolant it was a hole in the bottom of the radiator. This started as a very slight leak and got worse very quickly! After replacing it the thermostat ate itself and the temperature would fluctuate in a similar way until replaced.
I used a pattern one that was about a tenner but the Cliosport forums etc will tell you to only use a genuine Renault one which was stupidly expensive for what it is from memory. Easy to change but you will lose a litre or so of coolant doing it.
When my 172 was losing coolant it was a hole in the bottom of the radiator. This started as a very slight leak and got worse very quickly! After replacing it the thermostat ate itself and the temperature would fluctuate in a similar way until replaced.
I used a pattern one that was about a tenner but the Cliosport forums etc will tell you to only use a genuine Renault one which was stupidly expensive for what it is from memory. Easy to change but you will lose a litre or so of coolant doing it.
Edited by StoatInACoat on Thursday 12th January 11:25
StoatInACoat said:
Sounds like you have a knackered thermostat and/or a leak. Check thermostat housing for signs of white deposits and the radiator for damp patches. Take undertray off and park over a sheet of cardboard overnight to see if it leaks anywhere.
When my 172 was losing coolant it was a hole in the bottom of the radiator. This started as a very slight leak and got worse very quickly! After replacing it the thermostat ate itself and the temperature would fluctuate in a similar way until replaced.
I used a pattern one that was about a tenner but the Cliosport forums etc will tell you to only use a genuine Renault one which was stupidly expensive for what it is from memory. Easy to change but you will lose a litre or so of coolant doing it.
Hi, thank you for your answer. When my 172 was losing coolant it was a hole in the bottom of the radiator. This started as a very slight leak and got worse very quickly! After replacing it the thermostat ate itself and the temperature would fluctuate in a similar way until replaced.
I used a pattern one that was about a tenner but the Cliosport forums etc will tell you to only use a genuine Renault one which was stupidly expensive for what it is from memory. Easy to change but you will lose a litre or so of coolant doing it.
Edited by StoatInACoat on Thursday 12th January 11:25
I'll do that this evening. Thank you.
Thinking about changing the thermostat myself (A big job for someone that has never even changed a tyre!). Had a look yesterday and can see where it is and what needs to come out (battery would be one). Thanks again for your help.
Only things to bear in mind when changing it are that coolant will gush out when you pull it out and make sure you get a new O ring with your new thermostat and it's seated properly. From memory there are three bolts to undo and don't do them back up super tight or they'll snap!
When I change one I always bleed it afterwards although most people seem not to bother and assume the expansion tank will take care of it. Bleed screw is on the stat housing and is a 10mm head I think.
When I change one I always bleed it afterwards although most people seem not to bother and assume the expansion tank will take care of it. Bleed screw is on the stat housing and is a 10mm head I think.
StoatInACoat said:
Only things to bear in mind when changing it are that coolant will gush out when you pull it out and make sure you get a new O ring with your new thermostat and it's seated properly. From memory there are three bolts to undo and don't do them back up super tight or they'll snap!
When I change one I always bleed it afterwards although most people seem not to bother and assume the expansion tank will take care of it. Bleed screw is on the stat housing and is a 10mm head I think.
You're a gent, thank you When I change one I always bleed it afterwards although most people seem not to bother and assume the expansion tank will take care of it. Bleed screw is on the stat housing and is a 10mm head I think.
S1bolger said:
Hi,
Recently bought a 2007 Clio 197 - lovely car and wouldn't change it for anything (although I would make it slightly more fuel efficient)
Only small issue is that the car does not get up to temperature when being driving at 25+MPH and sits just on the first needle (it should be 3rd). However, as soon as you sit still in traffic for 5-10 minutes going under 15MPH the needles rises to where it should be and stays there perfectly. When I got the car it had NO radiator fluid in, since topping it up it has only gone down a tiny bit in 3 weeks which I guess is normal if it was completely empty.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Completely normal Recently bought a 2007 Clio 197 - lovely car and wouldn't change it for anything (although I would make it slightly more fuel efficient)
Only small issue is that the car does not get up to temperature when being driving at 25+MPH and sits just on the first needle (it should be 3rd). However, as soon as you sit still in traffic for 5-10 minutes going under 15MPH the needles rises to where it should be and stays there perfectly. When I got the car it had NO radiator fluid in, since topping it up it has only gone down a tiny bit in 3 weeks which I guess is normal if it was completely empty.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Our cars (Mines is 59 200) have a temperature gauge that is very busy, not like my old focus, warm up and stay on a certain needle until stop the car, no these go up and down depending on how cold it is outside, if you have been in traffic long, etc etc.
Don't know the exact science behind it but it is normal, I spent a lot of time on the RS forums.
That surprises me as I have only had this behaviour on my 172 when there was a problem. Other than that on both my 172 and 225 (essentially the same engine and stat housing) the needle has reached peak operating temp and stayed there regardless which I gather is normal behaviour for 172/182/225/230 engines.
Maybe the 197/200 is different but I assumed as it's ostensibly the same setup and the thermostat exists to maintain constant temp this would not be the case. More googling required!
Maybe the 197/200 is different but I assumed as it's ostensibly the same setup and the thermostat exists to maintain constant temp this would not be the case. More googling required!
Edited by StoatInACoat on Friday 13th January 11:39
EC123 said:
Completely normal
Our cars (Mines is 59 200) have a temperature gauge that is very busy, not like my old focus, warm up and stay on a certain needle until stop the car, no these go up and down depending on how cold it is outside, if you have been in traffic long, etc etc.
Don't know the exact science behind it but it is normal, I spent a lot of time on the RS forums.
It's just strange how it goes up to normal temp (on the gauge) when not moving and then goes down to first bar when moving over 25mph. Our cars (Mines is 59 200) have a temperature gauge that is very busy, not like my old focus, warm up and stay on a certain needle until stop the car, no these go up and down depending on how cold it is outside, if you have been in traffic long, etc etc.
Don't know the exact science behind it but it is normal, I spent a lot of time on the RS forums.
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