HDI woes - 1.6
Discussion
Hello everyone,
I took a chance on a 2006 Peugeot 207 GT HDI 110. As i'm sure you know, this uses the 1.6 16v diesel engine, with an up-rated turbo to give 109 horsepower or thereabouts.
The car has had a selection of problems that I'm trying to resolve. It comes up with with codes:
PO100 - MAF circuit malfunction
PO238 - Turbo boos sensor A circuit input high
The car has varying performance, either "seems perfect" or "totally knackered". Engine management light seems to pop on after revving above 3k RPM. Can be cleared with a OBD reader but returns when revved under load again. Power seems reduced when the light is on, struggling at certain RPM, then pushing past and seeming okay again.
Parts replaced:
Complete new Valeo EGR - this seems to have made it run better when the engine management light isn't on
Intake boot and the PCV o-ring - as both were knackered
Full service including fuel filter - as it desperately needed this
New silicone boost hoses and checked inter-cooler for oil (basically none) - as an hose came off and they weren't expensive
Cambelt kit and waterpump for a long future, hopefully!
Plus a bunch of other non-engine related bits and pieces
I'm quite deep into the car, financially, for a cheap one, but am willing to get it sorted properly. Any ideas? Variable vanes on the turbo sticking? I know the code says MAF, but the internet seems to suggest this is rarely the reason for this code. I'm also getting some fumes into the cabin, although it doesn't appear to be an injector leak.
Many thanks!
I took a chance on a 2006 Peugeot 207 GT HDI 110. As i'm sure you know, this uses the 1.6 16v diesel engine, with an up-rated turbo to give 109 horsepower or thereabouts.
The car has had a selection of problems that I'm trying to resolve. It comes up with with codes:
PO100 - MAF circuit malfunction
PO238 - Turbo boos sensor A circuit input high
The car has varying performance, either "seems perfect" or "totally knackered". Engine management light seems to pop on after revving above 3k RPM. Can be cleared with a OBD reader but returns when revved under load again. Power seems reduced when the light is on, struggling at certain RPM, then pushing past and seeming okay again.
Parts replaced:
Complete new Valeo EGR - this seems to have made it run better when the engine management light isn't on
Intake boot and the PCV o-ring - as both were knackered
Full service including fuel filter - as it desperately needed this
New silicone boost hoses and checked inter-cooler for oil (basically none) - as an hose came off and they weren't expensive
Cambelt kit and waterpump for a long future, hopefully!
Plus a bunch of other non-engine related bits and pieces
I'm quite deep into the car, financially, for a cheap one, but am willing to get it sorted properly. Any ideas? Variable vanes on the turbo sticking? I know the code says MAF, but the internet seems to suggest this is rarely the reason for this code. I'm also getting some fumes into the cabin, although it doesn't appear to be an injector leak.
Many thanks!
MJ85 said:
Hello. It is a generic fault code reader. I've ordered a MAF, as you are right, it's worth a shot. The reason I didn't change it immediately is the combination of the over boost code and the MAF code. This seems to flag up other issues.
As said, you really need to get the codes/faults read by the correct reader.Cheep MAF's rarely last and often give false outputs....get an OEM one (or borrow a known good one to test)
Stickyfinger said:
You could also join the French Car Forum...........
As in...http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/
?
and good experienced guys
Update time...
Replacement MAF fitted, one fault code gone! However, the engine management light still illuminates and the main problems exists. Still, not bad for £25.
I have noticed that exhaust fumes are emitted from the turbo on a cold start, this is where the exhaust smell into the cabin must be coming from. I'm not sure it is related to my main fault code (turbo over boost), because the internet seems to point me towards a dodgy turbo vacuum solenoid. This might make some sense as the turbo was making an interesting dump-valve style whistle when letting off the accelerator recently, although this has now stopped.
It is booked in at a diesel specialist on Friday, so we shall see!
Replacement MAF fitted, one fault code gone! However, the engine management light still illuminates and the main problems exists. Still, not bad for £25.
I have noticed that exhaust fumes are emitted from the turbo on a cold start, this is where the exhaust smell into the cabin must be coming from. I'm not sure it is related to my main fault code (turbo over boost), because the internet seems to point me towards a dodgy turbo vacuum solenoid. This might make some sense as the turbo was making an interesting dump-valve style whistle when letting off the accelerator recently, although this has now stopped.
It is booked in at a diesel specialist on Friday, so we shall see!
Turbo boost could be sticky or misaligned VNT collar.
These engines are about as bad as it comes for turbo problems. Be very wary of blown injector seals. I have a theory that when they go some of the gas that leads to the black crunchy stuff that you see round the top of injectors gets into the engine as the tube the injectors don't seal very well. This crap forms inside the engine blocking the stupid filters they put in the oil feed lines to the turbo blocking them completely and destroying the turbo.
These engines are about as bad as it comes for turbo problems. Be very wary of blown injector seals. I have a theory that when they go some of the gas that leads to the black crunchy stuff that you see round the top of injectors gets into the engine as the tube the injectors don't seal very well. This crap forms inside the engine blocking the stupid filters they put in the oil feed lines to the turbo blocking them completely and destroying the turbo.
crossy67 said:
Turbo boost could be sticky or misaligned VNT collar.
These engines are about as bad as it comes for turbo problems. Be very wary of blown injector seals. I have a theory that when they go some of the gas that leads to the black crunchy stuff that you see round the top of injectors gets into the engine as the tube the injectors don't seal very well. This crap forms inside the engine blocking the stupid filters they put in the oil feed lines to the turbo blocking them completely and destroying the turbo.
Absolutely, I've had to do a lot of reading. It has had injector seals changed before and they look okay at present. I will report back with the diesel specialist's diagnosis and it will hopefully be fixed. I think after this is all done, another oil and filter change for good measure is in order. These engines are about as bad as it comes for turbo problems. Be very wary of blown injector seals. I have a theory that when they go some of the gas that leads to the black crunchy stuff that you see round the top of injectors gets into the engine as the tube the injectors don't seal very well. This crap forms inside the engine blocking the stupid filters they put in the oil feed lines to the turbo blocking them completely and destroying the turbo.
Okay, car is back from the diesel specialist, significantly improved.
They found a crack in the air doser that was leaking boost pressure, a leaking injector (no. 3) and it required a new turbo vacuum solenoid. Looks like the internet research was correct when it came to the solenoid. Car now pulls cleanly, no engine lights etc.
Fumes into the cabin are significantly reduced, although I'm not convinced they are gone completely. Idle is a little wobbly at times. Will it ever be correct?! I'm going to change the oil again as planned (oil and filter have already been bought).
Next to sort: crunch on start up from starter motor and engine mounts seem shot to me (but my local garage say they are normal...).
They found a crack in the air doser that was leaking boost pressure, a leaking injector (no. 3) and it required a new turbo vacuum solenoid. Looks like the internet research was correct when it came to the solenoid. Car now pulls cleanly, no engine lights etc.
Fumes into the cabin are significantly reduced, although I'm not convinced they are gone completely. Idle is a little wobbly at times. Will it ever be correct?! I'm going to change the oil again as planned (oil and filter have already been bought).
Next to sort: crunch on start up from starter motor and engine mounts seem shot to me (but my local garage say they are normal...).
Just to put this thread to bed...
Car is now sold. Partly due to reducing the cars in the household and partly due to the engine never being quite right. Changed the oil again, definitely needed this. Air doser, even though changed, still didn't seem to work correctly. There was an exhaust leak from the DPF to the turbo, not ideal as it would mean rad out to fix. I think I'd only ever want this engine in a car from new, so issues can be kept on top of and oil changes can be very regular!
Car is now sold. Partly due to reducing the cars in the household and partly due to the engine never being quite right. Changed the oil again, definitely needed this. Air doser, even though changed, still didn't seem to work correctly. There was an exhaust leak from the DPF to the turbo, not ideal as it would mean rad out to fix. I think I'd only ever want this engine in a car from new, so issues can be kept on top of and oil changes can be very regular!
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