Pug 306 door hinge wiring issues

[TDIfurby]

Anyone ever experienced dodgy wiring in the door hinge area which knocks out the electric windows (and potentially in my case also the central locking....)

Hoping to get some experience of fellow pug owners before I charge headlong into looking into this issue.

[jord294]

common fault i'm afraid

[Hammer67]

Peugeot do a repair harness for this, costs around £60 IIRC. Big round multiplug prewired with about a foot of each circuit wire. Part number 6542VQ.

Edited by Hammer67 on Saturday 12th November 14:41

[TDIfurby]

Hoping to avoid any serious lay out If its a known fault hopefully it will be relatively easy to perform a reasonable temporary repair.

[Hammer67]

Well, in that case maybe start a new thread.

Perhaps title it something like:

306 door wiring issue, please help with bodges that are cheap and temporary, don`t bother if you can only offer definitive factory approved fixes with relevant part numbers costing £60 or so.

[TDIfurby]

This looks similar

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-PEUGEOT-306-MK1-...

It will be for a car without electric mirrors.

[StoatInACoat]

Similar isn't good enough, it must be exactly the same or it'll be a complete joyless nightmare to wire up because all the colours are different.

Cheapest, easiest option is to invest in some heat shrink, soldering iron and new wire. Remove the door (two bolts), strip back the rubber gaiter thing and cut 'n' shut any broken wires. They break on phase 1 and 2's because they're not long enough - as said, VERY common issue.

[eybic]

I believe a fix/bodge for the "bouncing locks" is to remove a relay which is under the rear bench (the locks think the doors are still open so they wont lock). I think I found it on 306.net or something similar

[TDIfurby]

StoatInACoat said:

Similar isn't good enough, it must be exactly the same or it'll be a complete joyless nightmare to wire up because all the colours are different.

Cheapest, easiest option is to invest in some heat shrink, soldering iron and new wire. Remove the door (two bolts), strip back the rubber gaiter thing and cut 'n' shut any broken wires. They break on phase 1 and 2's because they're not long enough - as said, VERY common issue.

Thanks Was hoping to avoid taking the door completely off, but it does appear to be the easiest way to access everything....

[StoatInACoat]

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=503...

[TDIfurby]

Thanks - during a good hoover up today I found a wire & plug going nowhere under the drivers side rear seat base. I wondered if it could be connected to my issues as I read in one the links above that there is a control unit under the rear seat?

[TDIfurby]

Well today, after remembering the guy said the previous owner did something in the fuse box area, I took a look. The wiring seems a little tampered with but its difficult to tell. There's a loose red & yellow wire, and the rest just looks a bit of a birds nest - that goes into the door loom....

Having inspected the door loom area, it looks to have never been touched, so not sure the fault is there.

[TDIfurby]

Well, I have had those two wires re-terminated back into the control box. They looked to have been ripped out which isn't good?! Can't think why someone would do that. I have working electric front windows now so happy on that count. The central locking is still dead and I have had the module out from behind the rear seat behind the driver, to inspect it and it seems OK. I have some key re-synching instructions to see if that helps, but at least I can use the windows again!

[TDIfurby]

Bye bye French section. The pug in fine form, went off to a new owner last night.

Was happy with the paint job restore (see below) and to fix a couple of niggling little things.