Nitro RC wont run - Help
Discussion
Is it a needle jet? If it will only run for a moment it may be that it's running on the prime and the mixture is too lean to keep it going. If you're familiar with the engine you should know whether it needs to be adjusted to get it running from cold. If you aren't familiar be prepared to experiment but the first thing I'd try is winding the needle out in small steps and see whether it seems to be making things better or worse. Make a note of the initial setting so you can always go back to it if you get lost.
Thanks GreenV8S.
I bought the car second hand.
I have replaced the fuel tank, filter, glow plug and lines.
It runs for about 5 seconds with the glow heater on and some fuel poured into were the air filter goes.
I know nothing about these, so even the needle part of your advise is confusing me.....
Can i supply a picture?
I bought the car second hand.
I have replaced the fuel tank, filter, glow plug and lines.
It runs for about 5 seconds with the glow heater on and some fuel poured into were the air filter goes.
I know nothing about these, so even the needle part of your advise is confusing me.....
Can i supply a picture?
Glow engines are a pain be prepared for some heartache (for lack of a better word) once they are setup they will run and not stop until they are shut down, or all the fuel has been used up, I am in the process of breaking in a new engine (.46cu in a Rambo buggy) and it is a total nightmare, I have run the glow start flat twice and only put 1/3 of a tank through it.
A few basic steps.
click this link for a carburettor diagram Carby (sometimes the idle stop screw is in the side of the carb)
1) set the high (the big one on the opposite side to the throttle connection) and low speed needles (the small screw in the middle of the throttle) to the manufacturers recommended settings. normally about 3 & 1/2 turns open for the high speed needle and 3 turns open for the low speed (this will need some fine tuning but it should get the engine running)
2) Remove the air filter assembly so you can see down the barrel of the carb. Push the throttle fully closed and adjust the idle stop screw until there is a 1mm throttle opening, replace the air filter assembly (never EVER run the engine without it).
3) I prime the engine by plugging the exhaust outlet with my finger (only when its a cold start) then I pull the cord until I see the fuel move down the pipe and into the carb fuel inlet, then give a few (five or six) tugs on the cord to pull the fuel into the engine.
NOTE: If the engine locks up do not try and pull the cord, you have a hydraulic lock, take the glow plug out and then pull the cord this will clear it, and then replace the plug.
4) Switch on the transmitter then the receiver.
5) Apply power to the glow plug and pull the cord smoothly but quickly.
6) The engine should fire, if it doesn't open the throttle with a few clicks of trim.
7) Once running allow the engine to warm, the car may want to move off but hold it in place and allow the engine to warm (using the brakes will close the throttle too far and it will stop running so use your hand, don’t worry it won’t rip your arm off
).
Have patience, these engines take time to get running, though if it second hand and is already run in you shouldn't have too many problems, if you are unsure about needle settings err on the side of caution and run a slightly rich mixture that will prevent engine damage. Always use a bit of after run oil (only a few drops in the carb opening and in the glow plug hole are required) this will prevent long term damage to your engine.
These are the rules I use to get my engines running, it usually works a treat.
Matt
A few basic steps.
click this link for a carburettor diagram Carby (sometimes the idle stop screw is in the side of the carb)
1) set the high (the big one on the opposite side to the throttle connection) and low speed needles (the small screw in the middle of the throttle) to the manufacturers recommended settings. normally about 3 & 1/2 turns open for the high speed needle and 3 turns open for the low speed (this will need some fine tuning but it should get the engine running)
2) Remove the air filter assembly so you can see down the barrel of the carb. Push the throttle fully closed and adjust the idle stop screw until there is a 1mm throttle opening, replace the air filter assembly (never EVER run the engine without it).
3) I prime the engine by plugging the exhaust outlet with my finger (only when its a cold start) then I pull the cord until I see the fuel move down the pipe and into the carb fuel inlet, then give a few (five or six) tugs on the cord to pull the fuel into the engine.
NOTE: If the engine locks up do not try and pull the cord, you have a hydraulic lock, take the glow plug out and then pull the cord this will clear it, and then replace the plug.
4) Switch on the transmitter then the receiver.
5) Apply power to the glow plug and pull the cord smoothly but quickly.
6) The engine should fire, if it doesn't open the throttle with a few clicks of trim.
7) Once running allow the engine to warm, the car may want to move off but hold it in place and allow the engine to warm (using the brakes will close the throttle too far and it will stop running so use your hand, don’t worry it won’t rip your arm off
).Have patience, these engines take time to get running, though if it second hand and is already run in you shouldn't have too many problems, if you are unsure about needle settings err on the side of caution and run a slightly rich mixture that will prevent engine damage. Always use a bit of after run oil (only a few drops in the carb opening and in the glow plug hole are required) this will prevent long term damage to your engine.
These are the rules I use to get my engines running, it usually works a treat.
Matt
Find the throttle mechanism - you will probably find there is a spindle going sideways through the air intake and if you look through the intake and move the throttle you'll see the throttle barrel moving. In line with this spindle but on the opposite side from the throttle linkage you should find an adjuster. Usually just a knurled knob but you may find something more fancy. If you turn it clockwise (as if screwing it into the engine) this makes it run leaner; screw it out and it will run richer. If it's running you can also make it run richer for a moment by putting your thumb over the air intake to restrict it. If this seems to help keep the engine running then it confirms that it's too lean. You will usually find that you need to richen it up to get it started from cold and then lean it out once it's warmed up, just like using the choke on a car.
This is very easy to sort.
I assume you have the correct fuel and a good glow on the plug ..
For the main needle open 1.5 turns.
If you have cocked the slow running needle ... take the carb off and at wide open you should see ALL the main jet.
I hope your are turning it ANTI clock.
If you are really stuck, pm a landline number and I can talk you through to start it.
I assume you have the correct fuel and a good glow on the plug ..
For the main needle open 1.5 turns.
If you have cocked the slow running needle ... take the carb off and at wide open you should see ALL the main jet.
I hope your are turning it ANTI clock.
If you are really stuck, pm a landline number and I can talk you through to start it.
Have a look at this site for help... http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/help.php
some links to youtube and a chap called squirrel... who needs to get out more but knows his stuff when it comes to nitro engines
Helped me get my xmas present going
some links to youtube and a chap called squirrel... who needs to get out more but knows his stuff when it comes to nitro engines
Helped me get my xmas present going
< Update >
Asked a freind to take a look at this.
The thing will only run with a thumb placed over the part where the air filter goes on.
He has suggested this is indicative of a air leak.
I have a spare carb, so will put this on as soon as possible. However the engine has been rivited onto the chassis :-(. Will have to take off all the radio gear to get to the carb....
Asked a freind to take a look at this.
The thing will only run with a thumb placed over the part where the air filter goes on.
He has suggested this is indicative of a air leak.
I have a spare carb, so will put this on as soon as possible. However the engine has been rivited onto the chassis :-(. Will have to take off all the radio gear to get to the carb....
So - I changed the carb to one that looked good and that came with the car.
I tried hard to start it up and broke the starter.....
New starter £14.99 on Ebay from Hong Kong.
New engine (Kyosho GX-12) £34.99 including starter from Bedfordshire.
I bought the engine last night and will fit this to my chassis when it arrives.
Its a brand new engine, so should work.
I tried hard to start it up and broke the starter.....
New starter £14.99 on Ebay from Hong Kong.
New engine (Kyosho GX-12) £34.99 including starter from Bedfordshire.
I bought the engine last night and will fit this to my chassis when it arrives.
Its a brand new engine, so should work.
guys,
I've also got myself a second hand nitro. it's a GV Models Hunter and aftre following the advice on here I managed to get the engine to start. It runs (loudly) on a little stand I built, but as soon as i do any inputs from the controller, such as left / right, or brakes the engine dies. if i put on the power it's ok, util i take the glow plug starter of. Then if i give it some power it'll die too.
the head is nice and warm but doens't seem to hot.
I've also got myself a second hand nitro. it's a GV Models Hunter and aftre following the advice on here I managed to get the engine to start. It runs (loudly) on a little stand I built, but as soon as i do any inputs from the controller, such as left / right, or brakes the engine dies. if i put on the power it's ok, util i take the glow plug starter of. Then if i give it some power it'll die too.
the head is nice and warm but doens't seem to hot.
paul_y3k said:
as soon as i do any inputs from the controller, such as left / right, or brakes the engine dies.
Do these affect the throttle? Otherwise, if the engine is just running on eth bench I can't see how those other controls would make any difference.paul_y3k said:
it's ok, util i take the glow plug starter of. Then if i give it some power it'll die too.
You should be able to disconnect the glow plug within a couple of seconds of starting it. As it warms up the mixture will need to be leaned out and you may need to play with it to find the best setting once it's fully warmed up. If it runs better with the glow plug on that suggests the plug is not hot enough which probably means it's too rich.Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff