My latest RC shell

Author
Discussion

The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Sunday 24th August 2008
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Was going to do light buckets but got really pissed with them
But I did paint the window frames (surprisingly easy with thin masking tape) and put in some metal grills at the front.
Will be going on my Pro 4 chassis but waiting for the right wheels and drift tyres.




The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Tuesday 26th August 2008
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No one? I was quite proud of the grills lol

Mikey G

4,756 posts

245 months

Tuesday 26th August 2008
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Not my thing, but a good effort on the grills wink

But i have to say, was the backwards writing intentional? and why? hehe

Red Firecracker

5,296 posts

232 months

Wednesday 27th August 2008
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Think that is prototypical of the Drift livery (yep, I did wonder about that myself first of all! smile )

RC shells always disappoint me a little (and this is no reflection on your excellent work) in that you have to take the time to paint inside the shell and then it's stickers on top. Why not put the stickers inside the shell as well? Surely it would protect them more and stop the annoying lines around them being so visible.

Nice work though.

The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Wednesday 27th August 2008
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I think that is because internal decals are a lot more expensive to produce.
Painting the window frames though gave it a much smoother look.

Yeah the reverse lettering on one side is meant to be a mirror image of the other side, its a drift thing.

SlipStream77

2,153 posts

196 months

Thursday 28th August 2008
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Looks great, nice work!

Btw, AFAIK the Pro 4 chassis wasn't designed specifically for drifting, so presumably there are setup tweaks to get the desired handling traits? Maybe very soft front tyres and very hard rear ones coupled with a big difference in spring stiffnesses and damper rates front to back.
Or are there anti roll bars that can be adjusted?

The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Thursday 28th August 2008
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No worries on that front, the Pro 4 has all the adjustments a Pro racer would need, and is one of the better cars for Rc drifting.
Setup also depends alot on what sort of drift tyres you use, but that is all in hand.
This is what it is going on, but not those wheels, I have T-Drifts and offset wheels coming.


The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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Finished




Bungleaio

6,377 posts

207 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2008
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Looks good mate. I would think about upgrading your connectors though mate, the plastic tamiys ones have quite a high resistance and get quite warm when a lot of current is flowing through them, I've had them melt on me causing shorting and lots of smoke.

I use these and have never had a problem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4mm-gold-connectors-10-pairs...

The_Jackal

Original Poster:

4,854 posts

202 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2008
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Yeah I've got Deans connectors to go on as I put them on my heli and lipos. I just hate soldering lol

dpbird90

5,535 posts

195 months

Wednesday 10th September 2008
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Nice job on the shell, looks better than some of the HPI ones on their site!

I would also highly recommend you change the Tamiya connectors, some that I had actually caught fire one day when I was playing with a TL-01 in the street (granted it had a 10x2 motor in it!). Personally I would choose powerpole connectors, almost as good as the gold plugs (Corally's) but you shouldn't have a problem with connecting them up backwards and blowing up the battery, but you could say the same about Deans, however these are harder to solder, with powerpoles you stick a little bit of solder on the end of the wire, pop the metal bit of the connector over it, then hold the soldering iron to it, couldn't be simpler! Then you just clip the red or black plastic in place.

Roop

6,012 posts

289 months

Wednesday 10th September 2008
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Looks smart. Like the mods too.

Agreed on the connector front. T-Plugs plenty good enough to drift with as you won't need a high power motor and because of the complete lack of grip, there's very little motor load and thus very little current draw.

Fact is, you could comfortably get away with the Tamiya connector for drifting...