Advice wanted for electric rc car noobie

[Logie]

Hey all,

Bought a HPI Sprint 2 6 months ago, when i got it had a little go and put it away because the weather was crap.

Got it back out now, during the winter i bought some batteries. But now i've come to use it im not sure what im doing!

First off, i have a Novak GT7 ESC. I understand it controls the motor, but what i dont understand is all the profiles it has. Oval, stock, agressive etc. You can set your own but i dont have a clue what they really do. If i put it to aggressive will it put out full power as soon as i put the throttle down?

I bought 3 sets of GP 3700 single sells which have been soldered together (x3 6 batteries) by the previous user (To a high standard aswell). Will i be fine to use these once i solder on the correct wire and deans connection? (My charager and car use deans connection)

Lastly, how do you work out charge time? My charger goes from 0.5a to 5.5

Sorry for the questions, but i've been into nitro for years.

Thanks in advance.

[wildoliver]

Lol sounds like your as confused as me!

The ECU will have 1 setting for arsing around, I suspect as you do that aggressive is the one.

Yes your batteries need the wires and deans connectors soldering on.

If you haven't got a handbook for the charger then my charger suggests max setting (5.5) for over 1700mah so sounds like your setting is the max but wait for someone to confirm before you fry your batteries. Also you may have a setting for different cell types ie. sc sce or scr.

[PeetBee]

The recommended maximum for charging those cells is 3.7 amps and they'd be fine with Deans connectors.
http://www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/news/2007%20NiM...

Not sure about the speedo settings tho, sorry!

[wildoliver]

Told you to wait for a second opinion!

[Logie]

Thanks, they have not been used inawhile so i was thinking of charging them on something low like 1a or 1.5 for 12-14 hours.

Interesting read that, glad i have a decent charger that has peak detection, heat stop etc

[PeetBee]

Logie said:

Thanks, they have not been used inawhile so i was thinking of charging them on something low like 1a or 1.5 for 12-14 hours.

Interesting read that, glad i have a decent charger that has peak detection, heat stop etc

NIMHs don't really like to be trickle charged, so it may be better to cycle them a few times at normal rates. What charger do you have?

LOL @ Oliver, have you found a new car yet?

[wildoliver]

Full size or model peet? Seem to be selling everything up and buying all new at the moment! Must be an early life crisis!

[PeetBee]

LOL, I know that feeling!
I meant model, I've seen your ad on oOple!

[Logie]

PeetBee said:

Logie said:

Thanks, they have not been used inawhile so i was thinking of charging them on something low like 1a or 1.5 for 12-14 hours.

Interesting read that, glad i have a decent charger that has peak detection, heat stop etc

NIMHs don't really like to be trickle charged, so it may be better to cycle them a few times at normal rates. What charger do you have?

LOL @ Oliver, have you found a new car yet?

ONe of these:

http://www.ripmax.com/item.asp?itemid=O-IP2500VP&a...

Pro-Peak 2500 Varipulse AC/DC Chgr

[wildoliver]

Not a bad charger, looks pretty similar to mine.

[PeetBee]

Ok, I would set it to the right ampage, charge them up and then just use the car til it goes flat to cycle them. As the cells haven't been used for a while they may take less charge initially than they are capable of.

Having a discahrger would help, but it's not essential and you can't beat using the car to give the cells a good workout.

[wacattack]

Logie said:

Thanks, they have not been used inawhile so i was thinking of charging them on something low like 1a or 1.5 for 12-14 hours.

Interesting read that, glad i have a decent charger that has peak detection, heat stop etc

Do not trickle charge NiMH's, they do not like it. You might be well advised to get a Novak Smart Tray. It basically discharges each cell individually to a specific cut-off to ensure each cell charges from the same start point. Doing this should sort out inactive cells.

If you do not want to invest in the discharge tray then I would charge them up (not to capacity) then run them down in the car. When they are on charge ensure they do not get too hot (they should get a little bit warm just before they peak but never too hot to handle).

As for the esc, play about with the different settings, see what you feel most comfortable with. If you are a complete novice Id recommend starting on the lowest setting then work upwards. You will develop quicker as a driver by taking it easy to start, learn about how the car handles and move on from there.

[Logie]

Thanks for the input all. Just bought a Tamiya T1-01 (Has a rally chassis). Im looking for a cheapish ESC and motor, pref brushless. Im not sure what type of motor to get for offroad? Something with torque?

[PeetBee]

Logie said:

Thanks for the input all. Just bought a Tamiya T1-01 (Has a rally chassis). Im looking for a cheapish ESC and motor, pref brushless. Im not sure what type of motor to get for offroad? Something with torque?

Do you mean a TL01? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=ShowSpec...
If so, I'm not sure it'd be up to handling many of the brushless motors out there, probably a 10.5 (19 turn brushed equivalent) would be it's safe limit.

[Logie]

You know what, no wonder i've not found anything its TT-01 lol!

[PeetBee]

Oh one of those! Sorry, don't know much about them, as they occupy that strange world between on and off road!
Although like most tamiyas I wouldn't expect them to last long with much more power than the 10.5 (19t) motors.