Discussion
ive ordered the number plates "LL918" only original lego geeks like myself will understand the significance of that number haha!
I've been scouring ebay for months collecting my old space lego, and reclaiming my lost childhood, which wasn't lost but traded for a ropey electric guitar... what a fool i was.
I've been scouring ebay for months collecting my old space lego, and reclaiming my lost childhood, which wasn't lost but traded for a ropey electric guitar... what a fool i was.
Centurion07 said:
cinqster said:
I love LEGO. I use it to cast more model bits!
How does that work then? I need some bits in 1:18 & it looks like I may need to do them myself.The alternative is to place your parts in\on (depending on shape) some plasticine in the bottom of the Lego frame and pour some RTV Rubber on top. Once set turn upside down and repeat with the rubber - remembering to include pouring points to the parts. Once set pour hot metal or resin into the pouring points and allow to set. You then just need to remove the "sprue" formed by the pouring point and clean up any flash.
gopher said:
The alternative is to place your parts in\on (depending on shape) some plasticine in the bottom of the Lego frame and pour some RTV Rubber on top. Once set turn upside down and repeat with the rubber - remembering to include pouring points to the parts. Once set pour hot metal or resin into the pouring points and allow to set. You then just need to remove the "sprue" formed by the pouring point and clean up any flash.
Yep, you have it! This was the start of a two part mold. The white rods are the pour and vent tubes - when the resin is poured these will form two sprues that need cutting off. The holes in the plasticene are registration holes so the two rubber mold halves will lock together. I use an RTV rubber and catalyst that's mixed 20:1 by weight - easy to use. The RTV rubber is poured over the parts to fill up to the top of the second Logo course and allowed to cure for 24 hours. When cured the Lego box is flipped over and the plasticene removed. If done with care the model parts should stay firmly in place in the one mold half. RTV doesn't stick to most things apart from itself. The joining face of the cured mold half must be coated in a release agent - I use Vaseline cut 50/50 with white spirit and paint it on the mold surface. Give it 30 minutes to let the Vaseline mix 'skin off' and you're ready to pour the second side of the rubber mold. Finally, go for a good quality resin to cast with and when the molds set you can be popping out new parts out every 15 minutes. With practiice you can get really good join lines comparable to commercial kits with no flash and little parts clean up needed. Let me know if anyone needs more info!Here you go...forgot I had these pics:
These parts are destined for a tuned 1/6 Monkey Bike. It'll be getting Nitrous too!
Edited by cinqster on Thursday 22 May 01:37
...and pimped up pegs!
Edited by cinqster on Thursday 22 May 01:43
Edited by cinqster on Thursday 22 May 01:45
Peugeot could learn about a thing or two about car roofs from this lego model. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-aysbTL7VY&fea...
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