Applying Decals
Discussion
In the last few days I've been making a 1:24 Raybrig NSX, and I have to say that so far it's coming on pretty nicely. HOwever, the decals on this look like a complete nightmare. There massive raybrig decals that stetch from the bonnet to the rear, and all sorts of creases and curves. You can see what it will hopefully vauguely resemble
So has anyone got any tips for applying them? I've done a similar one on a GT3 before and it was a bit of a disaster, I always had creases. I've put quite a lot of effort into this one and would be a same to ruin it right at the end! Plus, next up is a 131 Abarth with the same problem
So has anyone got any tips for applying them? I've done a similar one on a GT3 before and it was a bit of a disaster, I always had creases. I've put quite a lot of effort into this one and would be a same to ruin it right at the end! Plus, next up is a 131 Abarth with the same problem
Edited by negative creep on Monday 4th December 14:50
negative creep said:
oh and one more thing, should i use laquer afterwards?
I would certainly seal them with something and this is especially true if intend to weather the subject at all.
edited to add
In my experience with large decals make sure you use plenty of water or solution to keep them moist whilst positioning, if your decal goes from wide to thin then I prefer to appy and position the wide end first and dry very slightly before carefully pulling the backing sheet towards the thin end, positioning as you go along.
cheers
Paul
Edited by gopher on Tuesday 12th December 21:00
Try using one of the 2 stage decal fixing methods such as Microscale. The first bottle - Microset - is the wetting agent as mentioned above this will help allow the air out from under the decal and also means the decal can be more easily positioned. The second bottle - Microsol - is a decal softener and this allows the decal to pull down over any detail or compound curves.
But be warned, different decals behave differently to different solutions so it's always best to try the solutions out on spares before you launch into the Raybrig. Also different softeners have different strengths - in the past I've watched a decal disappear into a screwed up ball as soon as the softener goes on !! I have several makes and usually try the weakest first and work up in potency - ie Microscale then Solvaset or Daco (These last two are quite strong) and if these fail I've even resorted to a blast with a hairdryer !
All that said, I've often found warm wet kitchen towel works very well on Tamiya decals and if you should get a bubble or crease let it dry then prick it or slice it with a scalpal and apply a drop of softener.
HTH
Tony
But be warned, different decals behave differently to different solutions so it's always best to try the solutions out on spares before you launch into the Raybrig. Also different softeners have different strengths - in the past I've watched a decal disappear into a screwed up ball as soon as the softener goes on !! I have several makes and usually try the weakest first and work up in potency - ie Microscale then Solvaset or Daco (These last two are quite strong) and if these fail I've even resorted to a blast with a hairdryer !
All that said, I've often found warm wet kitchen towel works very well on Tamiya decals and if you should get a bubble or crease let it dry then prick it or slice it with a scalpal and apply a drop of softener.
HTH
Tony
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