Applying Decals

Author
Discussion

negative creep

Original Poster:

25,130 posts

232 months

Monday 4th December 2006
quotequote all
In the last few days I've been making a 1:24 Raybrig NSX, and I have to say that so far it's coming on pretty nicely. HOwever, the decals on this look like a complete nightmare. There massive raybrig decals that stetch from the bonnet to the rear, and all sorts of creases and curves. You can see what it will hopefully vauguely resemble



So has anyone got any tips for applying them? I've done a similar one on a GT3 before and it was a bit of a disaster, I always had creases. I've put quite a lot of effort into this one and would be a same to ruin it right at the end! Plus, next up is a 131 Abarth with the same problem

Edited by negative creep on Monday 4th December 14:50

Eric Mc

122,663 posts

270 months

Monday 4th December 2006
quotequote all
Soften the water first (using a houseld washing up liquid - in VERY small amounts i.e one or two drops only)

Place the decal in position and manoeuver it using a brush.

Use a dedicated decal softener - such as Microsol to help it bed down onto the surface.

speedchick

5,192 posts

227 months

Tuesday 5th December 2006
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Other half uses plenty of warm water, DecalFix, a small paint brush and plenty of kitchen roll. (interspersed with lots of swearing and the dog running for cover!)

negative creep

Original Poster:

25,130 posts

232 months

Tuesday 5th December 2006
quotequote all
does it make any difference that I live in an hot water area?

Eric Mc

122,663 posts

270 months

Tuesday 5th December 2006
quotequote all
Where do you live, Iceland?.....New Zealand?

negative creep

Original Poster:

25,130 posts

232 months

Tuesday 5th December 2006
quotequote all
that should've read a soft water area. Whoops!

negative creep

Original Poster:

25,130 posts

232 months

Tuesday 12th December 2006
quotequote all
oh and one more thing, should i use laquer afterwards?

gopher

5,160 posts

264 months

Tuesday 12th December 2006
quotequote all
negative creep said:
oh and one more thing, should i use laquer afterwards?


I would certainly seal them with something and this is especially true if intend to weather the subject at all.

edited to add

In my experience with large decals make sure you use plenty of water or solution to keep them moist whilst positioning, if your decal goes from wide to thin then I prefer to appy and position the wide end first and dry very slightly before carefully pulling the backing sheet towards the thin end, positioning as you go along.

cheers

Paul

Edited by gopher on Tuesday 12th December 21:00

72twink

963 posts

247 months

Tuesday 12th December 2006
quotequote all
Try using one of the 2 stage decal fixing methods such as Microscale. The first bottle - Microset - is the wetting agent as mentioned above this will help allow the air out from under the decal and also means the decal can be more easily positioned. The second bottle - Microsol - is a decal softener and this allows the decal to pull down over any detail or compound curves.
But be warned, different decals behave differently to different solutions so it's always best to try the solutions out on spares before you launch into the Raybrig. Also different softeners have different strengths - in the past I've watched a decal disappear into a screwed up ball as soon as the softener goes on !! I have several makes and usually try the weakest first and work up in potency - ie Microscale then Solvaset or Daco (These last two are quite strong) and if these fail I've even resorted to a blast with a hairdryer !
All that said, I've often found warm wet kitchen towel works very well on Tamiya decals and if you should get a bubble or crease let it dry then prick it or slice it with a scalpal and apply a drop of softener.

HTH

Tony