Modelling supplies?
Discussion
Nevin said:
Can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere I can buy cellulose dope and tissue paper?
Also, when it says to use 50:50 thinned cellulose dope, presumably it is thinned with something like enamel thinners rather than water (for instance)?
Can't be positive they do it but would be surprised if they don't try Squires their mail order catalogue is big I usually pick one up at the many shows they do (and threw last years away just a week ago
). I imagine (again not certain) that you would thin the dope with cellulose thiners picked up at B&Q or the such like....
which is nice
(stay well ventilated)
gopher said:
Can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere I can buy cellulose dope and tissue paper?
Also, when it says to use 50:50 thinned cellulose dope, presumably it is thinned with something like enamel thinners rather than water (for instance)?
Can't be positive they do it but would be surprised if they don't try Squires their mail order catalogue is big I usually pick one up at the many shows they do (and threw last years away just a week ago
I imagine (again not certain) that you would thin the dope with cellulose thiners picked up at B&Q or the such like....
which is nice
Cheers Gopher, have emailed them for a catalogue. Have never seen cellulose thinners before, but I imagine you are correct on that front. Will have a scan of B&Q.
>> Edited by Nevin on Wednesday 17th May 21:42
Nevin said:
Can anyone point me in the direction of somewhere I can buy cellulose dope and tissue paper?
Also, when it says to use 50:50 thinned cellulose dope, presumably it is thinned with something like enamel thinners rather than water (for instance)?
Do not use anything other tha cellulose thinner in dope otherwise you'll ruin it.
It's worth contacting your local motor factors & getting 5 litres of thinners from
then rather than buying little tins at Halfords for the same money.
Obviously store it out of the house as it's very inflammable!
Quick google show that Perkins still distribute it, go here & there's a list of suppliers.
http://tinyurl.co.uk/u0hv
>> Edited by tr7v8 on Thursday 18th May 10:41
Nevin, have you started the job yet?
to get a good result after you've stuck it to the model, it's best to wet the tissue paper with a fine spray of water then let dry completely, before you attempt to dope it - it shrinks it more than just doping alone and gives a more stable surface for you to dope onto.
>> Edited by Davi on Thursday 25th May 19:36
to get a good result after you've stuck it to the model, it's best to wet the tissue paper with a fine spray of water then let dry completely, before you attempt to dope it - it shrinks it more than just doping alone and gives a more stable surface for you to dope onto.
>> Edited by Davi on Thursday 25th May 19:36
Davi said:
Nevin, have you started the job yet?
to get a good result after you've stuck it to the model, it's best to wet the tissue paper with a fine spray of water then let dry completely, before you attempt to dope it - it shrinks it more than just doping alone and gives a more stable surface for you to dope onto.
>> Edited by Davi on Thursday 25th May 19:36
Cheers for that. Haven't started yet, will probably do it on Sunday (its on a boat, not a plane BTW).
Any other hints and tips very welcome. Do I dope the model before I put the tissue paper, then dope again on top? Not done this before so just trying to work out as I go along.
I'm not glassing it because it will add too much weight.
what glue are you using to stick the tissue paper on with? Have to admit I loathe covering solid structures in tissue, I'd recommend you have a good play about on scraps first to get a feel for it!
You can use the dope to stick the tissue to the structure, not sure if I'd recommend it if its your first attempt. If you use tissue glue dont use it to stick it all over unless you want a really nasty surface. Got any pics of the boat? depends on its shape as to how I'd approach it.
You can use the dope to stick the tissue to the structure, not sure if I'd recommend it if its your first attempt. If you use tissue glue dont use it to stick it all over unless you want a really nasty surface. Got any pics of the boat? depends on its shape as to how I'd approach it.
Do a couple of thinned coats first, then cut the tissues into panels, as per each flat surface, but leave a 1/4inch oversize. Dope the surface & whist wet lay the tissue on working it out from the centre with more dope on the brush. Dope down the overlaps.
If it all goes pete tong then just let it dry overnight & give it a good sanding.
Takes practise but not difficult. Don't wet the tissue for solid surfaces, that's
only for open structures.
When its covered give several more coats of dope, preferably one with dope mixed
with talcum powder (sanding sealer) as it will fill the grain & make getting a decent surface easier.
Marrionville models are very good, favourite haunt when in Edinburgh!
If it all goes pete tong then just let it dry overnight & give it a good sanding.
Takes practise but not difficult. Don't wet the tissue for solid surfaces, that's
only for open structures.
When its covered give several more coats of dope, preferably one with dope mixed
with talcum powder (sanding sealer) as it will fill the grain & make getting a decent surface easier.
Marrionville models are very good, favourite haunt when in Edinburgh!
4WD said:
personally dont use tissue any more for aircraft, I use an ultralight iron on film instead, looks like tissue, weighs less, less messy. that's a nice little aircraft in your link, might have to look at converting that to RC sometime!
Yes but tissue looks cool, like a real model. Film makes a handbuilt model look like something from a korean factory.
I found a few stockists for tissue. I went for Jap tissue from Sam's, as it is stronger when wet.
www.samsmodels.com/acatalog/Section_B._Covering_materials.html
www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-Sheets-Black
I found a few stockists for tissue. I went for Jap tissue from Sam's, as it is stronger when wet.
www.samsmodels.com/acatalog/Section_B._Covering_materials.html
www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-Sheets-Black
4WD said:
Yes but tissue looks cool, like a real model. Film makes a handbuilt model look like something from a korean factory.
I found a few stockists for tissue. I went for Jap tissue from Sam's, as it is stronger when wet.
www.samsmodels.com/acatalog/Section_B._Covering_materials.html
www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-Sheets-Black
I found a few stockists for tissue. I went for Jap tissue from Sam's, as it is stronger when wet.
www.samsmodels.com/acatalog/Section_B._Covering_materials.html
www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10-Sheets-Black
I'll have to find a link to the film I use - it looks almost identical to tissue, just a slightly closer fibre structure.
Gassing Station | Scale Models | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff