Model building tips
Discussion
I'm starting to get back into model building, however the last one I did was probably when I was about 12, and most of my kits from that time had gluey finger prints, rubbish paint with drips and brush marks, and poorly fitting parts filled with big globs of cement 
I'd like to get slightly better results this time though, so would be grateful for any hints and tips for assembling and paiting the kits (1/48 and 1/72 scale plastic, and 1/20 scale balsa).
I'll obviously need glue, paint, tools (scapel, side cutters, anything else?), work/cutting mat but is there anything else that will help?
I'd like to get slightly better results this time though, so would be grateful for any hints and tips for assembling and paiting the kits (1/48 and 1/72 scale plastic, and 1/20 scale balsa).
I'll obviously need glue, paint, tools (scapel, side cutters, anything else?), work/cutting mat but is there anything else that will help?
Start buying some of the model magazines (I buy too many of them).
If you are into general modelling, then "Scale Models International", "Tamiya Model Magazine" or "Fine Scale Modeler" are the ones to go for. I like FSM the best as it has more "written" content rather than just lavish colour pics (although it has them too).
If you are into aircraft, "Scale Aviation Modeller", Scale Aircraft Modelling" and "Airplane Modeller" are the best around.
There are a number of modelling websites arounf. "Modeling Madness" has an excellent discussion forum. Testors website has some very good downloadable video clips on modelling techniques hosted by ace scale modeller, Brett Green.
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Tuesday 2nd May 17:48
If you are into general modelling, then "Scale Models International", "Tamiya Model Magazine" or "Fine Scale Modeler" are the ones to go for. I like FSM the best as it has more "written" content rather than just lavish colour pics (although it has them too).
If you are into aircraft, "Scale Aviation Modeller", Scale Aircraft Modelling" and "Airplane Modeller" are the best around.
There are a number of modelling websites arounf. "Modeling Madness" has an excellent discussion forum. Testors website has some very good downloadable video clips on modelling techniques hosted by ace scale modeller, Brett Green.
>> Edited by Eric Mc on Tuesday 2nd May 17:48
Ed, glad you feel the bug!
There are loads of things that can help/ease construction and enable better results.
Firstly, good super glue. I got really p!ssed off buying plastic bottles of the stuff that would gel after only a few uses- meaning you had to bin it. I now use Flex-Zap II.
You mention scalpels- get a surgical one.. and the packets of blades are cheap. Just be very careful replacing those blades. Needle files are necessary for trimming and smoothing whether you are using plastic, resin or metal (wear a mask when filing resin though).
I've found my most important ally though, is a stack of wooden cocktail sticks. They reach down into that tinlet of paint , prevent glue going where it shouldn't and mix my oil paint palatte onto small business cards.
If you are constructing aircraft, tanks or cars that need the application of waterslide decals, trim as much excess off that you can with a scalpel or scissors when dry and then use Microscale liquid products. The decal will then 'wrap' around bolts etc. and dry to a matt finish.
Many people paint beautifully constructed scale models of cars, trucks etc. in the correct colour (recommend an airbrush for this) but neglect to 'paint in' the lines around all the shut lines with black or raw umber. To do this, dilute the medium right down with turps (enamel and oil paint) or water (acrylic) and, using a fine brush. Let this shade colour run into these areas via capiliary motion.
Weathering happens to EVERY vehicle once it's left it's production line- whether this is a film of dust on the parts of the windsreen that the wiper blades don't reach, wear on tyres, or some mud or dirt appearing on the bodywork behind the wheels, oil leaks on engines, rust red on tank exhausts- or even 'fresh snow" on rally cars, tanks etc (use white wood glue and Filler B glass bubbles for this) it will be apparent. Replicating this weathering adds much more to an assembled piece than that factory fresh Spitfire, T34 or Ferrari- no matter what scale.
I now paint human subjects in various scales- using sable brushes and oil paint- but the same 'weathering' applies.
My current project is a 1/10 scale (Andreas) Polish Lancer bust and I've just subtly painted in his beard growth- on a shaven chin.
edited to add, that is a fantastic Tuscan in your profile
>> Edited by Kenny chim 4 on Wednesday 3rd May 01:09
There are loads of things that can help/ease construction and enable better results.
Firstly, good super glue. I got really p!ssed off buying plastic bottles of the stuff that would gel after only a few uses- meaning you had to bin it. I now use Flex-Zap II.
You mention scalpels- get a surgical one.. and the packets of blades are cheap. Just be very careful replacing those blades. Needle files are necessary for trimming and smoothing whether you are using plastic, resin or metal (wear a mask when filing resin though).
I've found my most important ally though, is a stack of wooden cocktail sticks. They reach down into that tinlet of paint , prevent glue going where it shouldn't and mix my oil paint palatte onto small business cards.
If you are constructing aircraft, tanks or cars that need the application of waterslide decals, trim as much excess off that you can with a scalpel or scissors when dry and then use Microscale liquid products. The decal will then 'wrap' around bolts etc. and dry to a matt finish.
Many people paint beautifully constructed scale models of cars, trucks etc. in the correct colour (recommend an airbrush for this) but neglect to 'paint in' the lines around all the shut lines with black or raw umber. To do this, dilute the medium right down with turps (enamel and oil paint) or water (acrylic) and, using a fine brush. Let this shade colour run into these areas via capiliary motion.
Weathering happens to EVERY vehicle once it's left it's production line- whether this is a film of dust on the parts of the windsreen that the wiper blades don't reach, wear on tyres, or some mud or dirt appearing on the bodywork behind the wheels, oil leaks on engines, rust red on tank exhausts- or even 'fresh snow" on rally cars, tanks etc (use white wood glue and Filler B glass bubbles for this) it will be apparent. Replicating this weathering adds much more to an assembled piece than that factory fresh Spitfire, T34 or Ferrari- no matter what scale.
I now paint human subjects in various scales- using sable brushes and oil paint- but the same 'weathering' applies.
My current project is a 1/10 scale (Andreas) Polish Lancer bust and I've just subtly painted in his beard growth- on a shaven chin.
edited to add, that is a fantastic Tuscan in your profile
>> Edited by Kenny chim 4 on Wednesday 3rd May 01:09
Eric Mc said:Nooooooo! My girlfriend would kill me if I clutter the place up with even more hobby mags!
Start buying some of the model magazines (I buy too many of them).
I do browse through a few at lunch sometimes, but they all seem aimed at a level above my basic skills. Eric Mc said:Thanks, I'll check these out.
There are a number of modelling websites arounf. "Modeling Madness" has an excellent discussion forum. Testors website has some very good downloadable video clips on modelling techniques hosted by ace scale modeller, Brett Green
Model magazines can have that effect - sometimes the models on display are just TOO good. All the same, you will pick up lots of technical advice plus background on the subject matter of particular kits. In other words, the story behind the real aircraft, ships, tank, racing cars etc.
I have learned as much history and technical stuff from reading model related articles than almost anything else. Modelling is a lot more than glueing bits of plastic together.
I have learned as much history and technical stuff from reading model related articles than almost anything else. Modelling is a lot more than glueing bits of plastic together.
If doing aeroplanes, we have found that using spray paint is the best option, (especially for white paint), we tend to use Wilkinsons own brand white spray enamel.
It gives good coverage and tends not to 'yellow out' as much, plus it is infinately easier to use than a paintbrush!
Appliance paint can also work good.
It gives good coverage and tends not to 'yellow out' as much, plus it is infinately easier to use than a paintbrush!
Appliance paint can also work good.
I wouldn't trust an aerosol except as undercoat - too much risk of spatter IMO. Pressure falls off and subject to climatic factors also. Actually I don't like aerosol paints period and in fact I'd have the things banned or at least subject to licensed use only (sorry for rant but grafitti really gets my goat).
Thanks for the advice so far! I've got a few kits in the post now, so will hopefully be able to get cracking soon
What do people use as a base to build the model on. I've seen a couple of model building stations complete with magnifying glass and lights which look quite qood, but they're a bit pricey!
ehasler said:
Thanks for the advice so far! I've got a few kits in the post now, so will hopefully be able to get cracking soon
What do people use as a base to build the model on. I've seen a couple of model building stations complete with magnifying glass and lights which look quite qood, but they're a bit pricey!
nothing like a nice bit of ply mate
Eric Mc said:
You can get special cutting mats which are self healing and have a grid printed on them which serves as a useful alignment guide.
I ordered one of these along with the kits (went a bit overboard when all I really wanted was the SR-71 kit - whoops!), but was looking for what other people used to actually assemble the kits on. I remember using an old ice cream tub lid when I was younger, but not sure that's really the best tool for the job I'll try and grab a bit of ply next time I'm in B&Q
>> Edited by ehasler on Friday 5th May 15:03
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